Got a leak on the top of transom :(

F1100F1100 Lake SimcoePosts: 282Member ✭✭✭
Noticed the bilge going off more than usual, crept into the engine bay and had a look around. Looks like at the Top of the transom where the steering tiller goes in. Right at the top where the nut and shaft go down its leaking slowly. I just filled the boat up with a full fuel load, of 140 gallons.

Comments on fix, time and cost... you think the fuel load dropped the boat lower and caused the leak to show up? how much is fix? That engine has some play as well side to side. What else should I get fixed replaced while this leak is fixed? Its all original parts from 1993.

The leak does not look that serious... comments about leaving it until fall pull out.. bilge seems to go off once a day type of thing.

its a 1993 alpha 1 gen 2 , rinker 300vee

thanks
Adam
1993 300 FIESTA VEE TWIN 5.7L ALPHA GEN 2

Comments

  • Liberty44140Liberty44140 Bay Village & Marblehead, OH.Posts: 2,412Member ✭✭✭✭
    This has been discussed a few times here. Not uncommon. If your bilge is going off hourly then you need to fix it, but if its a couple times a day then you certainly can leave it to fall. Maybe consider a backup pump. The steering pins corrode and the seals get chewed up fast. Burn off some of that fuel and keep it at half so that the pins are above the waterline and enjoy the summer. 
    Wine-N-Down -- 2006 342 Express Cruiser

  • GMSLITHOGMSLITHO Greenwood Lake NY Posts: 791Member ✭✭✭
    edited July 30
    steering pin and gimble ring do a search on JR Marine you can see whats involved I did mine last year but looking back I should have just replaced the whole transom assembly
  • aero3113aero3113 Long Island, NYPosts: 2,596Member ✭✭✭✭✭
    Yes, the extra weight has the steering swivel pin close to/ in the water. The swivel pin is most likely corroded and the seal is worn. How do I know? Same exact thing happened to me a couple of weeks ago, my boat is now in the shop. It was a very minor leak but since we just had a baby I figured now is the time to get it repaired. 
  • Black_DiamondBlack_Diamond Holland, MichiganPosts: 4,662Member ✭✭✭✭✭
    @aero3113. Congrats on the baby!

    2003 342FV "Black Diamond", 350 MAG MPI, 20P 4x4 Props, PC BYC, Holland, MI
  • Dream_InnDream_Inn Annapolis, MDPosts: 5,402Member, Moderator mod
    Yes, as mentioned, you can go the JR marine route or replace the whole transom assembly.  I had both of mine transom assemblies changed out less than 2 years ago.  A pretty large job, especially once you dig in, it's worth just having everything changed out.

    Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express

  • aero3113aero3113 Long Island, NYPosts: 2,596Member ✭✭✭✭✭
    @aero3113. Congrats on the baby!

    Thank you!
  • aero3113aero3113 Long Island, NYPosts: 2,596Member ✭✭✭✭✭
    There's also a Mercruiser approved repair. I've heard horror stories of the screws corroding and breaking on the JR cover plate if you need to get back in to access the pin and seal. The shop doing my repair recommended the Merc repair.
  • rasburyrasbury Sanford, FLPosts: 5,453Member ✭✭✭✭✭
    yea, I'm not to sold on that JR cover plate deal....if you you use stainless I guess it would not be a problem but don't understand how stainless and aluminum get along....the parts "in there" are pretty simple and the access is the issue and it looks like it would work. If I did not have a transom seal leak and that was my problem, I think I would have done it vs. pulling the motor...paying someone to do that job would have been a pretty big number I'd think. My pivot pin was not leaking but did replace the parts and seals...
  • skennellyskennelly ChicagoPosts: 1,397Member ✭✭✭
    I had it done...had the motor pulled.  If I remember it was around $3500
    2002 - 270FV Mag 350 B3
  • icoulthaicoultha Niskayuna NYPosts: 1,262Member ✭✭✭
    edited July 31
    I did the Merc route myself. PITA job but it worked.
    Post edited by icoultha on

    Regards,

    Ian

    The Third “B”

    Rear Commodore, Crescent Boat Club

  • aero3113aero3113 Long Island, NYPosts: 2,596Member ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited July 30
    @rasbury , I went to change out one of my stainless grounding wires that was broken at the beginning of the season, it's screwed in with a stainless screw, I went to remove it and the head sheared right off.
  • aero3113aero3113 Long Island, NYPosts: 2,596Member ✭✭✭✭✭
    icoultha said:
    I did the Merc route myself. PTA job but it worked.
    I would’ve loved to do it myself, just can’t find the time. But knowing how difficult it can be I’m glad I’m not doing it. 
  • GMSLITHOGMSLITHO Greenwood Lake NY Posts: 791Member ✭✭✭
    Did mine 2 years ago and replaced with a stainless gimbal ring replaced trim senders bearings shift cable mercathode system water intake hose swivel pin I think all together parts close to $2000 and some long time spent working under that swim platform 
  • F1100F1100 Lake SimcoePosts: 282Member ✭✭✭
    ohh nice.... do they make that stainless gimbal ring for alpha 1 gen 2? any links to who makes it?
    1993 300 FIESTA VEE TWIN 5.7L ALPHA GEN 2
  • rasburyrasbury Sanford, FLPosts: 5,453Member ✭✭✭✭✭
    yep, I remember you posting....it's a job! but not as bad as pulling the motor to do it!
  • GMSLITHOGMSLITHO Greenwood Lake NY Posts: 791Member ✭✭✭
    I got the ring from hill marine same company that makes the props 
  • rasburyrasbury Sanford, FLPosts: 5,453Member ✭✭✭✭✭
    Is your speedo line hooked up proper to the nylon fitting on the transom? One thing I figured out tracking down my leak, there are just a ton of holes in these boats! What about a thru hill, how do you know it's at the transom itself?
  • GMSLITHOGMSLITHO Greenwood Lake NY Posts: 791Member ✭✭✭
    I sealed that tube up 
  • rasburyrasbury Sanford, FLPosts: 5,453Member ✭✭✭✭✭
    You do have a plastic part with a seal that goes through the transom, just a thought. If the steering pin is leaking then there should be evidence of water marks/corrosion etc. on the inner transom plate- a trail of where it is coming from. I would sure find out where it is coming from before I tore a transom apart, that's for sure. Thru hull.....or maybe even the whole seal on the transom which was my problem. Over time, that seal loses it's spugeness and goes flat- knock the drive around a little and it will lose it's seal and in comes the water. That seal should be much harder than it is...I replaced bellows and had to use a slide hammer to get the gimbal out, broke a merc tool...anyway, leak was 10x worse when I put it back together and figured out it was the main seal that was leaking....water is pretty tricky- just because it ends up in the bilge pump sure don't mean that is where it started from!
  • GMSLITHOGMSLITHO Greenwood Lake NY Posts: 791Member ✭✭✭
    here is the tool I made to take out the bearing it worked like a charm no hammer or banging the assembly .thread the rod through attach the washers and nuts to the inside from inside the boat, then on the outsideI had a old weight that I used but a 2X 4 with a hole drilled in it will work then just tighten up from the outside and it pulls the bearing right out 
  • reneechris14reneechris14 Pawcatuck river CTPosts: 2,155Member ✭✭✭✭
    GMSLITHO said:
    here is the tool I made to take out the bearing it worked like a charm no hammer or banging the assembly .thread the rod through attach the washers and nuts to the inside from inside the boat, then on the outsideI had a old weight that I used but a 2X 4 with a hole drilled in it will work then just tighten up from the outside and it pulls the bearing right out 
    I use the same idea thicker rod and piece of steel with a hole. Pulls easy and does not disturb the surroundings. Ten bucks at a local hardware store.
    2005 Rinker FV342  Pawcatuck river,Ct
  • rasburyrasbury Sanford, FLPosts: 5,453Member ✭✭✭✭✭
    The merc tool works very similar- I stripped the thread on the threaded rod. I still have to buy a replacement for the guy I borrowed it from...
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