Trim limit and indicator pucks

Black_DiamondBlack_Diamond Holland, MichiganPosts: 4,664Member ✭✭✭✭✭
i've had constant problems with the limit and indicator pucks. The indicator one works on/off/ poor readings. The limit one does not 'stop' the drive, it just goes untill it reaches its limits ( pumps do not turn off). 

Do these go bad or is it more an adjustment issue. Been fussed with to adjust over the years and it never lasts. 

These a pita to DYI to replace?  Any thoughts on the problems?

thx. 

2003 342FV "Black Diamond", 350 MAG MPI, 20P 4x4 Props, PC BYC, Holland, MI

Comments

  • Handymans342Handymans342 Posts: 7,600Member ✭✭✭✭✭
  • Handymans342Handymans342 Posts: 7,600Member ✭✭✭✭✭
    Drives have to come off to replace correctly. POS system if you ask me
  • Cableguy GregCableguy Greg Pittsburgh, PAPosts: 3,973Member ✭✭✭✭✭
    They do go bad and are a PITA to replace. 
    2008 280 Express Cruiser, 6.2MPI, B3, Pittsburgh, PA "Blue Ayes"
    Go Steelers!!!
  • 212rowboat212rowboat Posts: 2,273Member ✭✭✭✭✭
    mine took FOREVER to set up right... here is what i've found fwiw-

    they are mapped- the little ticks must be aligned.  problem: there are multiple 'ranges'.  for speaking terms, there is a high at noon and a low at five- common sense would say it goes from low back to high, but.... that would just be common sense, because they don't... they go back to high at five and in a split mil from 5 o'clock.... but wait!!! there's more!!! common sense would dictate the next low would be 5 hours away, but... that would just be common sense.. the next low is at something like 8... and it works the same- a split mil from low to high... and the next low is- well, you get the idea...

    it's almost like they should be printed "if you've this much ram measured from the eye to the stancion seal, use the 'high' found at X o'clock"... but no... you get to fish for it.  

    it's a two person job.  period.  unless you've laid out a line, as Kidd Rock say's "from here to memphis" and have little concern for your nasal cavity and heavily invested in that energy source, it is a TWO MAN JOB.  with patience galore.  both of them- the limit and the gauge... in order to get to them it's absolutely best to have the drive off.  they're a PITA even then.  and, there is a difference between the limit and gauge 'pucks'.

    i  r  r  i  t  a  t  i  n  g.......

    but once they're done...... they're done.    
  • reneechris14reneechris14 Pawcatuck river CTPosts: 2,160Member ✭✭✭✭
    I did both drives last year, yes the drive must come off, also bell housing to get to the 10mm bolt that holds the wires in. Two little half moons go together to make the seal. They are  very sensitive to adjust an inch is a mile. Simple test if you the new one plug it in to the bullet connector for gauge and limit.some have had some luck rebuilding them. I also still have a problem with one gauge has a bad ground  at the bullet connector.
    2005 Rinker FV342  Pawcatuck river,Ct
  • davidbrooksdavidbrooks GermantownPosts: 489Member ✭✭✭
    I just purchased a brand new transom assembly that had a digital Sender in it.  Mine is analog so i had to replace it with a new analog sender.  In order to do it i had to remove both bell housing hinge pins and pull it to the side.  One bolt holds a plate that keeps the Trim senders wires/grommet in place.  It is a major pita to get fed back in and bolt rethreaded.  
    It's 5 O'Clock Somewhere!
  • Cableguy GregCableguy Greg Pittsburgh, PAPosts: 3,973Member ✭✭✭✭✭
    It makes you wonder what engineer at Merc thought that placement was a great idea. SMH
    2008 280 Express Cruiser, 6.2MPI, B3, Pittsburgh, PA "Blue Ayes"
    Go Steelers!!!
  • rasburyrasbury Sanford, FLPosts: 5,460Member ✭✭✭✭✭
    I will be trying to figure mine out shortly, I hope, as I removed them to take the housing off...it goes look like a major pain to replace. The wires are exposed right where they go into the parts that mount over the hinge pin- so I have some shoring up to do on those to wrap my job up.
  • Black_DiamondBlack_Diamond Holland, MichiganPosts: 4,664Member ✭✭✭✭✭
    Nothing ever easy. lol

    thanks for the adjustment tips Drew!

    2003 342FV "Black Diamond", 350 MAG MPI, 20P 4x4 Props, PC BYC, Holland, MI
  • Black_DiamondBlack_Diamond Holland, MichiganPosts: 4,664Member ✭✭✭✭✭
    Wonder now that I have the VesselView mobile if I could use the digital smartcraft units?

    2003 342FV "Black Diamond", 350 MAG MPI, 20P 4x4 Props, PC BYC, Holland, MI
  • aero3113aero3113 Long Island, NYPosts: 2,617Member ✭✭✭✭✭
    Do digital units have the same wiring issues as analog once they've been installed for a couple of years? 
  • davidbrooksdavidbrooks GermantownPosts: 489Member ✭✭✭
    Digital are 3 wires that go in to one plug vs analog that have 4 desperate bullet connectors. The one I am getting rid of is advertised for axis systems.  One side is just a blank plastic cover. No guts.
    It's 5 O'Clock Somewhere!
  • Michael TMichael T Posts: 6,681Member ✭✭✭✭✭
    @Black_Diamond. Good call! You should be able to use the TT icon on your VV - and it is highly accurate. I checked on land versus the VV and it was 100% on. Good luck with that.
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