Wiring run for windlass on a 2004 270

J3ff

I've upgraded the windlass to a Lewmar pro 1000, according to my electrictian I need to upgrade the wiring... anyone have any idea where the wire runs and how hard of a job it'll be to run thicker wire through it? Kind of regret not just going with the smaller one! 

Stodge

Prayers sent.  I've tired to find wires going from the helm to the TV and gave up because I didn't want to take my cabin completely apart.  Knowing how most boats are built, I wouldn't be shocked if the area for the wires is just big enough for the existing wires. 

Hope you have better luck.

J3ff

Yeah, that's what I figured. Already have been looking for other more creative ways to get the wires where they need to go... 

I did just use the stock wires for the last half of last year... but the electrician says I'm using wires that are DRASTICALLY too small and will end up burning up the boat someday. 

F1100

The lewmar manual shows the gauge you need for the run distance use that as a guide. I just put a lewmar 700 in my boat last year. It was pretty easy doing the wiring.

J3ff

Yeah, the wiring part was done real fast. Just now my guy telling me I'm going to burn the boat up. Checking the manual now. 

J3ff

F1100 thank you for pointing it out that the manual has recommendations, just saved me a TON of work. 

Showed it to the electrician friend, had him come check what AWG factory installed, and luckily it's 8AWG so assuming the boat is 30 ft (really it's probably more like 25 ft from battery to windlass. It looks like 8AWG is well within the rating. Thank god! 

boatman37

Thanks for posting this. Planning to install a V700 next year. Looks like my boat already has 8 GA cable running to the bow but can't find it up front yet. Just know there is a breaker by my battery switch with 8 GA going in and coming out. Boat is 25' but had a few tell my I was borderline and should go with 6 GA and that I should change it out when I do it. My understanding is you have to take the length of the run and double it so I would be looking at a max of about 50'? Well within the 8 GA rating you posted.

J3ff

**** - you made me realize that the manual I took a snapshot from doesn't really say 700 or 1000 and that it just says "pro fish"

So I went and searched for something more detailed, talking about the 1000 instead.. 
all I can say is "doh!" 

I may be selling the 1000 and getting a 700.. 

This one is from this PDF:
https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/pdfs/Lewmar/Manual_Pro_Series_Fish_Windlass_English.pdf





The other screen shot is from:

https://www.lewmar.com/Lewmar-Files/Manual_Pro-series-fish-manual-G3_B10414%20iss1.pdf




There's a 3rd version here:

https://www.lewmar.com/sites/default/files/sites/default/files/Pro-series-fish-manual-G3_B10490%20iss2_0.pdf


So I dont know which one to believe here, they all look like lewmar manuals to me..  Wonder if the first version had people burning up boats. Either way - really not looking forward to trying to run 4 AWG line through the boat, sounds like the electrician was right! 

J3ff

$90 bucks later, cables are ordered... figure most of sat morning will spent on this! 

LaRea

Something to consider - you don't really need to run 4 AWG.  

4 AWG is 25 sq.mm. of copper.  The boat already has a run of 8 AWG, which is 10 sq.mm., so you could just add a parallel run of 6 AWG (16 sq.mm.) and gang them together.  The total area would be 26 sq.mm.  

You'd need bus bars for the connectors, but the wire would be $2/ft instead of $8/ft, and much easier to work with.  

LaRea

But, somebody check my math first!  Also, that assumes the existing 8 AWG is in good condition.  

J3ff

Found this for $67, that's $1.34 a foot. 

https://www.amazon.com/Welding-Battery-Flexible-Terminal-Connectors/dp/B01M8QTJ3O/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=25+ft+4+awg+marine+wire&qid=1558401310&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Or this one:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Marine-Wire-4AWG-6AWG-8AWG-Black-and-or-Red-UL1283-1231-BC-5W2/152012201484?var=451208425701

Comes out to 1.58/ft 

J3ff

Well I did it... ran new wires using a snake with an electrician. Ran into a road block a few inches behind the STBD side window so I removed the right upper shelf and carefully pulled the soft wall material away from the side - yes ripping it away from the wall of the boat. Once we got it by that little block it was all good. Took about 15 mins total and now I've got 4awg wires running to the front. 25 ft was more than enough if anyone comes across this post in the future. 

Will complete the install tomorrow, including this wireless remote (already tested 100% works):

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Anchor-remote-windlass-wireless-switch-boat-sail-trim-controller-boston-whaler/232009695848?hash=item3604db0268:g:7-EAAOSwiMRbCKzR

boatman37

Nice!

Black_Diamond

When I replaced my windlass last year, moving up a model and needing to rewire was just not worth the hassle to me. The 700 works just fine on my 342. 

J3ff

Yeah, I might have stayed with the same if I had known. However that updated chart up a few posts says that even with the 700 - I would have had to run 6awg anyway!!