Freshwater vs Saltwater boats

cmelt2003

Wife and I are looking to move up a few feet. Looking at the SR290 and other 29-31 foot boats, the saltwater boats seem to be way cheaper. I would be in freshwater exclusively. What are some disadvantages to buying a saltwater boat and moving it to freshwater. Any other things I should look at as far as saltwater boats?

Stodge

Any metal parts that touch the salt water should be inspected.  Assuming it was well maintained it should be ok.  

The engines should have closed cooling. 

The head system may have a Y valve that needs to be sealed in the off position so nothing can be discharged overboard.

Dream_Inn

You want to look for the normal corrosion issues.  As Stodge said, if maintained well, it should not be an issue.  I agree that if it's in full salt water (not brackish, but salt), I would steer away from anything that did not have closed cooling.  Closed cooling, the only things that could need replaced at some point are the risers/manifolds/exchanger that would still have raw water go thru them (unless it's completely closed cooling).  

Also note that you'll have to change the anodes for fresh water.  FWIW, I wouldn't hesitate to buy a salt water used boat as long as everything checks out.

LaRea

A salt boat might have accelerated corrosion on cosmetic metal parts ... faucets, hinges, steering wheel, rails and bimini parts, you name it.  It all gets factored into the price.  

Liberty44140

Agree that if you buy a salt boat it must have closed cooling. Also understand that it will always be a salt boat so when you go to sell it, any surveyor will know within a minute in the engine room that its salt so you can not command a freshwater price. Look at the engine, you will be able to tell quickly if there is a lot or a little corrosion. When I Was looking for my 342 I drove to Deleware to look at a 2007 342 that was being advertised as a FW boat saying it had only been used in the rivers and canals. I got in to the engine room, looked at the engines and told my wife we were leaving as it was obviously salt and had a lot of rust. I could not re-sell that boat in Ohio. Broker was fuming accusing me of calling her a liar. 

cmelt2003

Liberty44140 said:

Agree that if you buy a salt boat it must have closed cooling. Also understand that it will always be a salt boat so when you go to sell it, any surveyor will know within a minute in the engine room that its salt so you can not command a freshwater price. Look at the engine, you will be able to tell quickly if there is a lot or a little corrosion. When I Was looking for my 342 I drove to Deleware to look at a 2007 342 that was being advertised as a FW boat saying it had only been used in the rivers and canals. I got in to the engine room, looked at the engines and told my wife we were leaving as it was obviously salt and had a lot of rust. I could not re-sell that boat in Ohio. Broker was fuming accusing me of calling her a liar. 

Agreed! Some of the picks show a great boat, but as soon as I come to the engine pics it really is a
turnoff. So much rust and surface corrosion that is evident in a pic, I can’t imagine what it looks like in person.

212rowboat

i wouldn't fear a salt water boat.  the biggest difference and cause for the price delta is the fact saltwater is tough on every surface on the boat.  I should send you pics on my trailered 212's transom.  it's an '05 and it looks twenty years older than a fresh water '05's at least, even though it is cleaned every time it is pulled.  same with the vinyl.  I'll be needing to reupholster the whole thing soon.  

insofar as the cooling system- the manifold's exterior may look great and you may think it just fine- but that isn't where it deteriorates.  this is the fail proof can't hide test for them:  pull a blue plug on the bottom of each manifold if the engine is open loop cooling... they have a little hole in them through the center of the threads... take a piece of wire and fish out the contents of that hole... you'll find sand, rust particles, crustacians or parts of, ect... if it is orange, those manifolds and/or plugs have been there a while and need replacing.  just replace them.  add $150 or so per manifold and expect to pay that atop the asking price as a precaution if nothing else.  the next item that is overlooked often is the engine circulation water pump mounted on the front of the block.  they can be weak after much salt use... the paddle in them deteriorates and is totally hidden from view.  if the boat is equipped with vessel view, you can monitor pressure- if it's not, you can slap a gauge on the four way at the thermostat neck/four way connection and monitor.  

where the risers meet the manifold is another tell-tale.  if you see rust at that junction, it is usually an indication it's time to swap manifolds.  

insofar as appearances and wear on gel coats inside and out, I've noticed a lot of guys around here- including my neighbor who cleans/restores boats for a living, are using that ceramic coat stuff... clean the boat thoroughly with dishwashing soap to remove all the wax, allow it to dry and wipe it with wet clean cloth to remove water spots- let it dry preferably in a shop- and then spray on the ceramic stuff with the activator... that boat will look new for at least an entire season.