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2005 342 outlets not working

johnepjohnep Member Posts: 114 ✭✭
So I went to use the outlets on the deck island not no go.  I have had my booster pack and cordless drill batteries plugged in over the winter to the cabin outlets with no issue.  Today all outlets are dead.  Cabin, deck, and outlet below the main panel are all dead.  I switched all breakers on and off several times no change.  Is the a main fuse or breaker for the outlets?  Seems very odd.
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    Black_DiamondBlack_Diamond Member Posts: 5,439 ✭✭✭✭✭
    The outlets are on a GFI circuit. Might just need to reset that outlet. Do your other AC circuits work?  Microwave, battery charger, vacuum, etc?

    you do have the main AC breaker on at the panel?

    Past owner of a 2003 342FV
    PC BYC, Holland, MI
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    johnepjohnep Member Posts: 114 ✭✭
    edited June 2019
    The only gfi is below the panel behind the cook top. It was not tripped. Micro wave and others seem fine. Very odd all was fine last week and today not working.
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    Liberty44140Liberty44140 Member Posts: 4,354 ✭✭✭✭✭
    The outside outlet on my 342 is a gfci, have another look. 
    07' Cruisers 390 (Previous Rinker's: 06' 342EC & 01' 310FV)

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    rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,285 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Reset it, just went through same thing
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    johnepjohnep Member Posts: 114 ✭✭
    I will check outside outlets for a gfi.  How do I reset it rasbury?
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    Black_DiamondBlack_Diamond Member Posts: 5,439 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Push the test button, then the reset button. 

    You can use a multimeter to check if power is coming in too. You’ll need to check it at the incoming wires/lugs. 

    GFI’s can and do go bad. 

    Past owner of a 2003 342FV
    PC BYC, Holland, MI
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    cettialpha6cettialpha6 Member Posts: 42 ✭✭
    After reading your post and going from memory of the print, I think you first have a 30 amp main breaker, then a 15 amp breaker before your outlets. My suggestion would be to first check for 120 vac at output of main breaker, if you have it there, go to the 15 amp and do the same. If you have 120vac at both of them then move on to the GFCI. Always try to troubleshoot forward from a known voltage not backward from an outlet. Hopefully it will be quicker to find where your loosing 120vac.
    FYI
    Art 
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    MojosBoatMojosBoat Member Posts: 98 ✭✭
    I had the same issue on my 342. All was working then nothing. I reset the GFI behind the cooktop and all started working then. 
    ALL IN AGAIN, 410 FV Twin 8.1 H/O MPI, V-Drives , 
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    Black_DiamondBlack_Diamond Member Posts: 5,439 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Starting at a man breaker is a good idea, access to get at that breaker is a PITA though. Been there. lol

    $ to doughnuts the GFI tripped/failed. You can get a better GFI outlet that is designed for wet areas and has an LED to show when tripped. Those older brown colored GFI outlets are not easy to see if they tripped. 

    Past owner of a 2003 342FV
    PC BYC, Holland, MI
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    johnepjohnep Member Posts: 114 ✭✭
    It was the gfi, reset when I tested it. Thanks all!
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    WillhoundWillhound Member Posts: 4,190 ✭✭✭✭✭
    That's two for two on just resetting the GFI.
    "Knot Quite Shore" - 2000 FV270 (Sold)
    2018 Cherokee 39RL Land Yacht (Sorry...)
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    Dream_InnDream_Inn Member, Moderator Posts: 7,594 mod
    I've had my GFI blow many a times for different things.  Mine is in the V-berth area.  Glad you found it & now you know where to look.

    Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express

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    reneechris14reneechris14 Member Posts: 3,134 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Wish I push a button to fix things. Knock on wood everything is working good right now. 
    2005 Rinker FV342  Pawcatuck river,Ct
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    IanIan Member Posts: 2,806 ✭✭✭✭
    edited June 2019
    Even at home an inadvertent slight touch on the GFI test button when plugging something in can trip it mechanically but not enough visually. First thing I do is test/reset if I lose power in the bathroom outlets at home and same on boat. 

    Regards,

    Ian

    The Third “B”

    Secretary, Ravena Coeymans Yacht Club

    https://www.rcyachtclub.com/

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    SummerrentalSummerrental Member Posts: 35 ✭✭
    Hello everyone! I'm having an opposite issue. I have a 2005 Rinker 270 and all the circuits work,... All outlets work, Range works, AC works, Hot water heater  works,.. all work.  The microwave does not. At first I thought it was the microwave itself so I removed it and checked the plug that plugs into the back of the power panel.  I verified it was plugged in, but the microwave did not turn on when I switched on the Microwave breaker. So I plugged the microwave into a regular outlet on the boat and the microwave works.  This means the problem is at the on/off switch for the microwave on the power panel.  Are these replaceable?  See attached picture of the back of the panel.

    (For now as a temporary work around, when I need the microwave I just plug it into the outlet and make sure i'm not using anything else)  I really don't use it that often. 

    Thanks for any tips!

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    Black_DiamondBlack_Diamond Member Posts: 5,439 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Sounds like a bad breaker. You’ll need to slide out the breaker panel, remove the covers to get to the breaker. Pretty easy. Blue Sea Systems are the breakers, find at most any marine parts store. 

    Past owner of a 2003 342FV
    PC BYC, Holland, MI
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    rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,285 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited June 2020
    dumb question and I did not read all the thread, but, did you re set the one that is in the head? Just like a house one if it trips...probably all on the same circuit...which happened to me...

    and I'm reading we went down this path....mine just had the one in the head....the one by the helm sink did not but yours might.....
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    DanD2DanD2 Member Posts: 847 ✭✭✭
    edited June 2020
    ........ nevermind. Comment that I had started didn't really apply and I hit enter by accident. Can't delete my post.
    No longer a boat owner.....previous boat - 2005 Rinker Fiesta Vee 342
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    SummerrentalSummerrental Member Posts: 35 ✭✭
    Sounds like a bad breaker. You’ll need to slide out the breaker panel, remove the covers to get to the breaker. Pretty easy. Blue Sea Systems are the breakers, find at most any marine parts store. 
    Ok, well now I have a worse problem. I used the outlet circuit as I mentioned for temporary use of the microwave and after I used the microwave 2 times, on the 3rd time,as soon as I hit start,  something must have blown and everything stopped working. No power to anything. Shore power main says nothing. (Anything on 12v still works, but the panel is completley dark). I dont see a main / primary breaker on this panel, so did I blow the entire panel?? Any ideas?

    Attached is a picture of my panel from a week ago when panel was still working. No green light anymore....

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    LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 7,627 mod
    If the green "Shore main" light isn't on, power is not reaching the panel.  Have you tried plugging into a different power pedestal?  

    Do you have a circuit breaker somewhere in the cockpit?  Not a fuse, but a switch meant for disconnecting shore power before you unplug the cord.  Maybe it got flipped somehow.

    Get a voltage tester ($20) and start poking around to see which parts of the system are energized.  All you do is hold the tester next to the cable and press the button.  If there's power, it will beep.  

    https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-NCVT-2-Standard-Protection/dp/B004FXJOQO 


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    LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 7,627 mod
    Also, fire up the generator and see if you can run any systems on genny power.  
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    SummerrentalSummerrental Member Posts: 35 ✭✭
    Thanks LaRea, Good question... I ran generator and panel lit up and everything worked. Switched off gene, and plugged back in shore power and nothing. Must be a problem with the wiring from shore power to panel?? from using microwave? Seems strange...?

    Also, Yes,.. we tried multiple power pedestals and 2 different power cords to eliminate that possibility....  I actually have that exact tool along with many other electrical diagnosing stuff, multimeter, etc. I am pretty good with electrical as I deal with it all the time in my job... but havent dove too far into the electrical system of boats yet...

    Any more thoughts?? Thank you for all the support I get from this forum. Great people.


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    SummerrentalSummerrental Member Posts: 35 ✭✭
    Well I found the problem. I started tracing wire from shore power plug down into engine compartment and there was a power coupler hiding behind the water tank. It looks like the hot and neutral melted a bit and prevented the contacts from making a connection. Not sure if this was the intention of the coupler to act like a fuse, but I'm glad it did I guess. Maybe its just 15 years of boating that caused it or what?? We have been using the microwave for years. I'm guessing it's just coincidence.  My boat is at that age where everything is failing, so I guess I'll just get used to it. (Also just lost the jabsco 40psi  12v fresh water pump the night before)

    ugh. Gotta Love Boating!!!


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    rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,285 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Good you found it put a not so good problem? Should there not been a fuse to go before that?
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    SummerrentalSummerrental Member Posts: 35 ✭✭
    I totally agree Rasbury! I will be looking to see how I can make this connection better and hopefully a 30amp fused connection? Anyone have any product suggestions that I can install in the engine compartment? I know I need to be weary of installing electrical components in this area due to sparks and vapors, etc. Any 30amp in line fused connections? Thoughts?
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    SummerrentalSummerrental Member Posts: 35 ✭✭
    I am thinking maybe something like this installed on the black power wire?

    Fastronix Automotive/Marine Weatherproof Blade Style ATO/ATC Fuse Holder with Cover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LWNVT61/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9kQ7Eb1MG1YFV

    Thoughts?
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    LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 7,627 mod
    Nope.  That fuse holder is for DC power.  Definitely do not use anything like that on the AC side (shore power).  

    The melted plug ... I'm just glad it didn't start a fire.  I doubt it's original.  Maybe the original wire got damaged, so somebody spliced it using that plug.  Well, you see the result.  I'd replace the entire wire from the receptacle to the breaker panel.   And don't use Romex from Home Depot. 

    While you're at it, check the condition of the shore power receptacle.  If the connectors are burned or discolored, replace the receptacle.  
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    rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,285 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Yea...something going on there...me and electrical don't speak the same language but I'd be a little worried about that..
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    SummerrentalSummerrental Member Posts: 35 ✭✭
    Oh Yes, DC fuse. I should have known that... long day crawling around in the engine compartment. I'm kinda baffled how the main panel does not have a primary breaker or fuse.

    The shore power receptacle is fine, that's is what I took it apart first and inspected it. The splice plug does appear to be original from Rinker as all the outlets in the boat all have the same plug type connections "Anderson Powerpole". Plus the power panel itself has all of these connectors as well. See pictures below. If I do replace the wire I will definitely use marine grade wire and the proper gauge, however getting the wire to the panel from the engine compartment will be quite difficult as it appears to run under the floor of my aft cabin somewhere and that is inaccessible.

    Id really rather make a better splice if at all possible. Is there any reason why I could not use solder type heat shrink wire connectors and make this a hard connection in lieu of a plug? Or is there a marine grade splice box or something that can be used? I could even mount it in a proper electrical junction box on the back wall of the engine compartment if necessary. 


    Electrical outlet with powerpole connector



    Unplugged from outlet 


    Back of power panel

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