New to boating and Rinker..couple ?

Just picked up a 1992 Rinker Captiva 206 boat with trailer yesterday. 960 hours on motor very nice shape good trailer. BUT owner did not winterize in time last winter and block is cracked  (oil looks like a milkshake). New battery and starter this year before startup (PO realized then block was cracked, water blowing everywhere). Bought boat and trailer for $1000, ckean clear titles to both.  Going to get reman longblock and do the work with a mechanic friend. I can get Jasper reman engine, are there other good options for reman motors? I've priced one at $1900 shipped and getting price on Jasper now. Will service drive and replace belts/hoses/plugs and wores/cap/rotor etc when swapping motor. Anything else to do when swapping motors?

Seems like a real nice solid little speedboat....

Comments

  • LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 7,747 mod
    Welcome to the fam!  Best advice in the world, and we love to help.  What's your boating experience, and how to you plan to use the boat?  That will help us tailor our responses.  

    While the engine is out, paint the engine room, or at least steam-clean it and get her back to normal.  Plan on replacing anything made from rubber or vinyl.  Replace the blower motor(s).  
  • randy56randy56 Member Posts: 4,083 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Welcome. install new gimble bearing, and engine coupler. nice boat. And what LaRea said. 
    Boat Name : 

  • GMSLITHOGMSLITHO Member Posts: 1,578 ✭✭✭✭
    While your at it take a good look at the transom assembly those out drives are heavy 
  • PickleRickPickleRick Member Posts: 4,012 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited August 2019
    I have head lots of quality issues with jasper in recent years.  What motor do you have?  Chevy?  If so is it raw water cooled? If not would you like it to be?  The reason i ask

    GM didnt close production for volvo or mercury for the motors to go in boats. Different welch plugs are used (brass/bronze) and stainless head gaskets.   I believe on the 350 they used a 2 bolt main rather than a 4 bolt. All your electronics are marine(starter and alternator) power steering is same as a car other than internal valving.  The cam is marine. Some stock truck/rv cams are so close to marine you'd never know a difference but there are better options.  

    If you have a 5.7 the vortec heads are good for 30 to 30 more hp right out of the box.

    The water pump is marine specific unelss closed loop cooling.

    Aluminum intake is no bueno unless closed loop cooled.

    A boat distributor is mechanical vs vac advanced found in a car

    New manifolds and risers are a must.

    So i guess what I'm saying is you can go to your local chevy dealer, buy a brand new long block(never vortec version if possible but that will require an electric fuel lump as it wont have mechanical provisions)  swap cams, install all your accessories, get a new intake manifold for a carb,  add closed loop cooling(@1500 from mr cool) and have a reliable gm brand new motor.  My GM 5.7 in my 92 rinker is actually a 1987 motor probably from another boat and shes still strong.  


    You can run that brand new gm motor on raw water with new thermostat, head gaskets and feeze plugs although many new motors are coming bronze.  Also proper marine water pump.  Motor do run better at 190 than 140 and last longer/cool more evenly.  


    Id trust a local speed shop to build me a motor over jasper. 

    I can go more into detail on proper maranizing if needed,  i had a tooth pulled earlier today and im a little loppy so I may have skipped some details.

    Before you spend a dime check the stingers, transom and mounts for anyrot.


  • LugNutLugNut Member Posts: 8
    Thaks for all the input! I have zero boating experience but mechanically inclined and have a friend who is a very experienced mechanic with his own shop. Also have another friend who works at a Marina ( he was checking on Jasper engine for me). 

    Good to know the things to check/replace when we pull the motor. I could have the original motor rebuilt locally but I would assume it's cheaper to buy a reman longblock and put back in. 

    If Jasper is not a good option...any other recommendations on reman 5.7 Mercruiser engines?

    Is there a good service manual for my boat/motor available somewhere?

    Thanks again 

  • LugNutLugNut Member Posts: 8
    edited August 2019
    Additional info....OD714156 serial number engine
    5.7 mercruiser
    Alpha drive
    Valve covers 4 bolts each
    Manifold 12 bolts total (6 each side)


    Where are good places (cheap) to order various replacement parts as recommended above?
    Post edited by LugNut on
  • PickleRickPickleRick Member Posts: 4,012 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited August 2019
    Michigan motorz has a great reputation.
    They sell both new and remanned motors from long blocks to fully dressed.

    If you have a block that's been frozen it probably wouldn't even been accepted as a core much less be rebuildable.

    Again, a mairne 5.7 isnt a special block so if you did want to rebuild a 5.7 block can be found easily on Craigslist/other for sale sights.  



    If you're rebuilding again consider vortec heads on the older block, dished pistons to keep compression down.  Try to stick with roller cam blocks as they have less lifter wear issues and allow a slightly more aggressive cam than the older flat tappet cam.   Many people choose to go 383 when rebuilding the 5.7,  just be careful as the alpha 1 doesn't appreciate over 300 hp.   

    A warranty is nice on a motor but unless its a shop that's building and installing it for you it's a real pita to use said warranty because they don't usually cover labor costs if there is an issue. You really hope you dont need to use a warranty.  

    Double check thay engine id number. Its not coming up for me.


  • LugNutLugNut Member Posts: 8
    PickleRick....I did have the last digit wrong....should be a 6 not 7 in the engine aerial number. Thanks for the info.. will look up michigan motorz!
  • PickleRickPickleRick Member Posts: 4,012 ✭✭✭✭✭
    You have a hydraulic lifter 1pc rear main block. Basically a chevy truck motor.  Any vortec carbed motor would be an upgrade in torque and horse power.  

    The special break in engine oil with a flat lifter engine is extremely important, don't skimp on this if you go with a direct replacement motor.  Break in on any new or rebuilt motor is necessary but with flat lifters you can really damage the cam quickly. 
  • LugNutLugNut Member Posts: 8
    Love the idea of a vortech headed reman motor BUT I want to reuse as much as possible from old engine (intake carb accessories/pulleys) so as not to spend $$$....
  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,395 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I'm glad we have really smart people on this site..we appreciate you @PickleRick!
  • PickleRickPickleRick Member Posts: 4,012 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited August 2019
    With vortec heads you'd still use your carb. That stock 4bbl is probably 750 to 850cc. No need for an upgrade.  

    You need cast iron carb intake for vortec heads, maybe 125 from jegs. 50 used on Craigslist where a guy upgraded to aluminum.  

    You'd need a 5psi fuel pump(mairne rated) to feed the carb and run wiring so it comes on with the switch. All your accessories bolt up. This is only if you get a newer block with no mechanical fuel pump provision.

    For about the price of rebuilding your heads with new valve guides you can get new vortec heads.  Its literally a bolt on mod with new intake.  

    I think jegs sells some marine motors as well now, i have not checked reviews but they do stand behind what they sell.
  • PickleRickPickleRick Member Posts: 4,012 ✭✭✭✭✭
    rasbury said:
    I'm glad we have really smart people on this site..we appreciate you @PickleRick!
    You're using the term smart very liberally!  
  • LugNutLugNut Member Posts: 8
    edited August 2019
    I've been getting different opinions on using my old front engine accessories and pulleys from my Mercruiser 5.7 on a new reman Vortec long block. Some people say the vortec long block uses a serpentine setup so my old pulleys etcetera would not work. Other people say they will bolt right up. Is there a way for me to verify this??

    I'll check my carb to see which one it is. If all iI have to buy extra is a cast iron Vortec intake manifold and a 5psi fuel pump along with my reman longblock (same price for standard 5.7 or Vortec 5.7) then I will go that way for sure.

    What else should be inspected/automatically changed when I pull the old motor? 960 hrs on boat/motor now...

    Thanks
  • PickleRickPickleRick Member Posts: 4,012 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited August 2019
    You can install all serpentine if you want or keep v belt, just transfer everything over  If stock you'll probably have a q-jet carb.  Look at the hot rod forums where someone has yanked their nova 307 engine out and dropped in a 5.7 vortec long block.  You have all your accessories. The vortec water pump only runs backwards because of the serpentine belt, a stock water pump will work fine.  You may have to space some pulley mount brackets to keep the v belts in line.  Flat washers work fine for this. 

    Do install a new water pump.

    Change your foot oil, new baffles, check your power steering cooler, gimbal bearing as already stated, baffles.  New impeller

    Install all new fuel hose while you're in there.  Inspect fuel tank.  

    Starter is easy to change on a hoist or stand not on boat. Take it for testing or put in new one, or have yours rebuilt.  

    Take your alternator to an auto parts store and have it tested before install.

    New thermostat, new engine hoses.  

    New power steering hoses.

    Check all your trim hoses while your motor is out.

    Make sure your bilge pump works while engine is out



  • LugNutLugNut Member Posts: 8
    Very good info...thanks....I'll get a reman Vortec longblock and hunt for a cast iron manifold....I'll start cleaning boat this week and hopefully get motor in 2 weeks and stary the R&R process.

    Ps how do you post pics on here?
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