8.1 fault codes

Mercury2005Mercury2005 Member Posts: 141 ✭✭
Background - left our slip cruising in 6 knot channel for about 10 minutes when the engine faltered, sounded like we hit something.  We anchored for a while and when we left the boat would not accelerate and when into Guardian mode.  We limped back to the slip and shut her down.

Purchased a Rind scanner and got the following faults (with engine running):

 - 191 fuel level 2 circuit high
 - 118 steering position circuit high
 - 75 fuel level circuit high
 - 94 pit.ot presser (boat speed sensor) low

Strange thing is I was able to rev it to the rev limiter and it did not go into Guardian mode.

What do I need to do to correct these faults?

Any help is always appreciated.



  • Dream_InnDream_Inn Member, Moderator Posts: 7,421 mod
    Hmmm, it doesn't seem like any of those codes would be a problem.  Do you have fairly new batteries?  I'm asking because I've seen where low voltage can cause this as well.  Obviously you can clear all codes to get out of guardian, but I recommend finding out what caused the problem.  I know a buddy of mine that used to own the 342 had issues with one of his main electrical connections that went to the ECM as well.  So, maybe check those as well.

    Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express

  • Mercury2005Mercury2005 Member Posts: 141 ✭✭
    Dream, Alswagg, thanks for the input.  I will reconnect the scanner and go through the menu to try to get more info. Will post results after.
  • Mercury2005Mercury2005 Member Posts: 141 ✭✭
    Alswagg, yest a steady alarm all the way back to the dock. It would not take any throttle at all, had to idle all the way.
  • Dream_InnDream_Inn Member, Moderator Posts: 7,421 mod
    Yes, for a steady alarm, you definitely have something in the fault history.  Could be anything from low oil pressure to high temperature or a faulty sensor.  Please post the history.

    Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express

  • javhavjavhav Member Posts: 420 ✭✭✭
    Did you check the reading on the water pressure sensor this will make it go in to limp mode under power but not in  neutral rev
  • javhavjavhav Member Posts: 420 ✭✭✭
    Can you do real time read with ur scanner 
  • Mercury2005Mercury2005 Member Posts: 141 ✭✭
    Since I just purchased the scanner, I need to learn how to use all the capability.  All I did so far was plug it in, start the engine and read the faults.  The only faults I got were the ones posted.  There is a 'memory history' or something like that and I will check next time I am at the boat.
    When you say 'real time' do you mean with the scanner plugged in and engine running?  If so I did that and selected 'read faults' which resulted in the faults noted.
    Not sure if I can select certain sensors or just go through the menu, again still learning.
    Any suggestions?
  • reneechris14reneechris14 Member Posts: 3,134 ✭✭✭✭✭
    pcm funtions will allow you to go tought each sensor one at a time, this will give reading on each while running. It is a slow process be patient.
    2005 Rinker FV342  Pawcatuck river,Ct
  • javhavjavhav Member Posts: 420 ✭✭✭
    @Mercury2005 @reneechris14 is the correct way to go check all % on the sensor and write them down then it would be alot easier to see what's really going but my scanner screen says pcm parameters so guess each one is different and read while the engine on and up to temp would love to help just need to know the numbers or %
  • Mercury2005Mercury2005 Member Posts: 141 ✭✭
    Just reread your post.
    You said - 
    "The faults you posted will always appear as your boat does not use these sensors"
    "Did your alarms go off?"

    If I don't have those sensors, why did the alarm go off and stay steady and then go into guardian mode?

  • reneechris14reneechris14 Member Posts: 3,134 ✭✭✭✭✭
    The faults you posted will not set off alarm
    Fuel  level
    Pitot sensor
    There must be a failt in the history that put it in guardian mode.
    2005 Rinker FV342  Pawcatuck river,Ct
  • Mercury2005Mercury2005 Member Posts: 141 ✭✭

    Just left the boat, here is status:

    Ran the motor for a long time while moving through the scanner menu selections.

    Just after starting one reading said 100% power, moving through the menu while idling I noticed a couple readings that were going up, i.e., 'starboard coolant temp = 141, port coolant temp = 109.

    With the engine running for quite a long time, the alarm horn started and the P&S coolant temps showed:  star over 211 while the port was around 143 and the power was down to 4%.

    I can now assume that the manifolds/risers are where the fault is.

    Should I remove both manifolds and clean them out, replace them or what do you guys suggest?

    Thanks to all for your input, I feel the scanner has paid for itself already.

  • Mercury2005Mercury2005 Member Posts: 141 ✭✭
    forgot to list 'block pressure' = 2.2 psi
  • Mercury2005Mercury2005 Member Posts: 141 ✭✭
    Thanks Alswagg, I will remove and inspect and post results.
  • Autodog61Autodog61 Member Posts: 92 ✭✭

    I know I am a little late on this one but for others looking in for future support -

    Assume when you say Rinda you mean Rinda Techmate.  I have one and use regularly and yes, you can eval. data real time such as temps, fuel management , etc (albeit one engine at a time).  It also identifies whether you are in Guardian (limp Mode), and of course can reset codes.  I have the 342 Fiesta Fee and as @Alswagg points out, I always see those speed/fuel sensor codes but until pointed out here, didn't realize they are there because they are not connected to anything and as such, will always be there.  Good to know.  Also, I offer this up- There are soft (two alarm beeps) and hard codes (Constant tone).  Again, I learned this on a long trip with a near malfunctioning IAC that soft alarmed for two days until I ran it down with the Rinda.  This is very helpful information below posted by @212Rowboatback in 2013: 

    "......Constant tone alarms are for:
    1.) engine coolant temp overheat,
    2.) low engine oil pressure,
    3.) engine over speed,
    4.) exhaust manifold cooling temp overheat
    5.) sea pump PSI low

    Constant beep alarms are for:
    1.) low outdrive lube level.

    Two Alarm beeps every 60 seconds are for:
    1.) Faulty cam,
    2.) IAC,
    3.) MAP,
    4.) MAT,
    5.) knock sensors.
    6.) open/short in the engine cooling temp circuit
    7.) open/short in fuel injector wiring circuit,
    8.) open/short in oil PSI circuit,
    9.) open/short in exhaust manifold cooling temp circuit,
    10.) open/short in sea pump circuit,
    11.) open/short in throttle position circuit - See more at:
    http://rinkerboats.vanillaforums.com/discussion/1012/2-beeps#latest  "

    Holy Smokes, don't forget the bilge plug!
  • Mercury2005Mercury2005 Member Posts: 141 ✭✭
    Thanks for the message.
    Water temp, oil pressure (I installed a manual OP gauge in the dash) are normal
    So far I have replaced the thermostat, added coolant and connected the Rinda.
    After the engine warmed up the constant alarm came on.
    The ex manifold temp on the star side was 212 degrees when the alarm came on.
    Removed the water hose from that manifold to riser and it seemed to be pumping a lot of water.
    Disconnected the ex man temp sensor and the alarm went away, no surprise there.
    Next removed the water pump (quite a job), disassembled it and noticed wear in both sides of the pump housing, so I ordered a new Hardin SS pump with installed pulley, and a new ex temp sensor.  
    Also ordered direct read temp gauge (automotive style) that I plan to install directly into the exhaust manifolds where the threaded plug is. Can't hurt to know what the temp really is at that location.
    After I install the new pump, I will connect the Rinda and see what happens. I was getting 2.2 PSI at idle for 'block pressure' which I assume is what the pump is putting out.  When I rev the engine the PSI goes up.
    Also I tried to erase the fault codes displayed on the Rinda and they did not go away.
    Any help is always appreciated.

  • Mercury2005Mercury2005 Member Posts: 141 ✭✭
    UPDATE. The problem was the star ex man temp sensor.  As soon as I touched the sensor and noticed it was 'loose', I knew it had to be the problem.  It was corroded so bad that it fell apart.
    So here is what I accomplished:

     - replaced the thermostat
     - replaced the sea water pump with a Hardin stainless steel pump/billet pulley
     - replaced serpentine belt
     - replaced seawater inlet hoses
     - installed new sensor. Old sensor was PLASTIC, new one brass, had to chase the threads to install new sensor, 7/16-14 thread. Manifold is aluminum so I may go back and install a helicoil just to make sure threads are good. Had to chip/drill out the old sensor, what was left of it.
     - installed a fresh water flush fitting and hose with Y fitting inline in inlet hose.

    With the new water pump, block pressure went up from 3.2 to 3.9 at idle, and ex man temps hovered around 80 degrees +-

    Sure glad I purchased that Rinda tool, saved me a lot of $$ with diagnosis.

    Want to thank all who provided input and support, I do appreciate it and if there is anything I can do to help you all just ask.
  • reneechris14reneechris14 Member Posts: 3,134 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Nice update thanks for the follow up. The Hardin pump always shows improvement,  remember its a different impeller. The rinda scan is always a good investment.
    2005 Rinker FV342  Pawcatuck river,Ct
  • Mercury2005Mercury2005 Member Posts: 141 ✭✭
    Forgot to mention that I removed the "air pressure system" that is used to evacuate water from the seawater system. When I removed the water pump and disassembled for cleaning, the cylinder that is activated by the air pressure was stuck inside the housing.
    After cleaning I removed the plastic air tubes and plugged the holes with 1/8" brass pipe plugs. Also removed the air control from the top of the engine. I never used this system when winterizing anyway, I always removed those 'blue' plugs to drain the system. I replaced those blue plugs with Hardin SS ones. Eventually I will remove the air cylinder from the port side of the engine and replace with tubing and Hardin SS plugs.
    I feel this air bleed system was a waste of good engineering effort.
    Cheers to all.
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