Fuel Module

06Rinker27006Rinker270 Washington, DCMember Posts: 1,237 ✭✭✭
Hi Everyone, I have a 2006 350 Mag and when I was changing the oil yesterday I noticed water dripping out of my fuel module.  The leak is coming from the bottom hose.  I have done a ton of homework on the issue and optional ways to fix.  My questions is, does anyone know if this is the GEN III on the 2006(if original) or what model it would be?   My mechanic said he needs to take the module out and bore out the connection, which I dont understand if its just a hose fitting that needs to be replaced.  Also any advise with fixing this issue?  Is this something that can be fixed while the boat is winterized?

Thanks for the help and hope everyone had a great season.
Patrick
06 Rinker 270
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Comments

  • Dream_InnDream_Inn Annapolis, MDMember, Moderator Posts: 5,914 mod
    It sounds like you have the famous Gen3 cool fuel module.  There was a bulletin out for corrosion at the inlet/outlet for the raw water that comes in to cool it.  (there was also the one for the paint chipping inside).  There is a plastic insert in the module that gets all gummed up/chewed up.  I'm not sure if it can be fixed (or pieces replaced) or you have to replace the unit.  I went with the latter because I had the paint chipping issues.  As far as while it's winterized, yes it can be fixed over the winter.  You do want to make sure the water is out of the line that goes thru the module (there is a blue plug on the module).  I agree with the mechanic in that taking the module out is probably the easiest way to work on it. Just not sure if it can be bored & then new inserts?  I know the new ones have much better fittings on them.

    Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express

  • 06Rinker27006Rinker270 Washington, DCMember Posts: 1,237 ✭✭✭
    Thanks John as always.  All of what I have read lines up with your comments.  The mechanic said its not a gen 3 but from the pictures I took, I believe it is.  He also stated he winterized the fuel system so all the water should come out.  Does the Gen 3 come standard on the 2006 motors?

    I found a lot of good chats about it on our nemesis forum, Club Sea Ray, in which this guy breaks down the options you have for a repair or replacement.

    http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/cool-fuel-3-iiii-raw-water-hose-fitting-repair-method.74356/

          
    Patrick
    06 Rinker 270
  • 06Rinker27006Rinker270 Washington, DCMember Posts: 1,237 ✭✭✭
    A few pictures of my module and where the leak is coming from


    Patrick
    06 Rinker 270
  • Dream_InnDream_Inn Annapolis, MDMember, Moderator Posts: 5,914 mod
    Yep, that's a gen 3 module.  You could try one of the many ways to fix it, but you may have issues again. It's surprising you haven't had the flaking paint issue.  I know what route I would go with (& I have on both of mine).  That is, replace the entire unit.  I believe you can buy the unit with or without the pumps (yours are still ok).  But, when you start adding things up like, when was your filters last changed?  they are basically 100 bucks, then if you are already paying for labor to remove it?  It all adds up and is not much more to replace new.  Just my thoughts.

    Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express

  • 06Rinker27006Rinker270 Washington, DCMember Posts: 1,237 ✭✭✭
    I was reading the other post on here back in 2013 when you had to replace yours and then again a few years later.  I dont believe I have had any flaking issues but how would i know?  I have not checked my injectors nor have I had them replaced.  Maybe its time I do.  Fuel filters were last replaced in Spring of 2019 and I do them every year.  I think I agree with you John, but replace the entire unit.  I HATE messing with fuel.  May just pay my tech to replace it.  
    Patrick
    06 Rinker 270
  • Cableguy GregCableguy Greg Pittsburgh, PAMember Posts: 4,343 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I agree with John, that's a Gen 3.
    2008 280 Express Cruiser, 6.2MPI, B3, Pittsburgh, PA "Blue Ayes"
    Go Steelers!!!
  • reneechris14reneechris14 Pawcatuck river CTMember Posts: 2,633 ✭✭✭✭
    Yup gen 3 I'm going to do both of mine this winter the plastic insert is cracked on one. No replacement parts. I'm going  to go with barbed fittings on both units the insides look great no flaking.
    2005 Rinker FV342  Pawcatuck river,Ct
  • 06Rinker27006Rinker270 Washington, DCMember Posts: 1,237 ✭✭✭
    @reneechris14 are yours leaking? Are you replacing the whole unit?
    Patrick
    06 Rinker 270
  • reneechris14reneechris14 Pawcatuck river CTMember Posts: 2,633 ✭✭✭✭
    Yes they are both dripping when running, when motors are shut down no drip. I'm just going to clean the hole drill and tap for a barbed fitting.? is nylon,brass,stainless??
    2005 Rinker FV342  Pawcatuck river,Ct
  • reneechris14reneechris14 Pawcatuck river CTMember Posts: 2,633 ✭✭✭✭
    will remove unit and do on the bench
    2005 Rinker FV342  Pawcatuck river,Ct
  • 06Rinker27006Rinker270 Washington, DCMember Posts: 1,237 ✭✭✭
    That is what I read a lot of guys are doing.  Im just curious why the old plastic cant be cleared out and replaced with the new fitting?  What am I missing that requires it to be drilled and tapped?

    I believe this is the replacement fitting.

    https://www.boats.net/product/mercury/8M2010476
    Patrick
    06 Rinker 270
  • reneechris14reneechris14 Pawcatuck river CTMember Posts: 2,633 ✭✭✭✭
    this is original plug-oring. So my guess is the corrosion beats up on the rubber as apposed to a thearded piece. Mine are actually cracked from me getting to the bilge pump. I agree with replacement but you can not get the part. 
    2005 Rinker FV342  Pawcatuck river,Ct
  • Dream_InnDream_Inn Annapolis, MDMember, Moderator Posts: 5,914 mod
    Patrick, to answer your question in how you would know if the paint is flaking.  When the paint flakes, it typically clogs the regulator.  It takes a very small minuscule size piece in the regulator and you'll know because your engine will bog from lack of fuel when getting on plane.  What's strange is that in some boats, it's just not happened (even using ethanol).  Then in some boats, like mine, it's happened twice (first time it was replaced with same stinkin paint flaking parts again!!)

    You may want to try the route that reneechris is doing since you have the winter to do it.  But, if you are paying someone to do all that, for me, definitely worth just replacing.  I hate to have things fail or hold me up in my prime summer boating.  I will say I've learned a lot & know I'll never mess with fuel.  Just changing the filters always has me triple checking everything. 

    Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express

  • 06Rinker27006Rinker270 Washington, DCMember Posts: 1,237 ✭✭✭
    @Dream_Inn thats crazy that you had to do it twice.  The new model has no paint flaking issues, is that correct?  I going back and forth on what to do.  No paint issues here so the unit must still be good.  Did you replace the module yourself?

    @reneechris14 would this not work? 



    Patrick
    06 Rinker 270
  • rasburyrasbury Sanford, FLMember Posts: 6,573 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I don't think I have one but will have to look...can you bypass and remove it?
  • rasburyrasbury Sanford, FLMember Posts: 6,573 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Nope..I have a line from tank..to filter...to fuel water separator to the fuel rail...
  • reneechris14reneechris14 Pawcatuck river CTMember Posts: 2,633 ✭✭✭✭
    @06Rinker270 yup thats look like the part
    2005 Rinker FV342  Pawcatuck river,Ct
  • aero3113aero3113 Long Island, NYMember Posts: 4,991 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I went out last night to see what my modules look like. My port side has the older style fittings and my starboard has the upgrade new fittings.

    Port



    Starboard


    2008 330EC
  • aero3113aero3113 Long Island, NYMember Posts: 4,991 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited December 2019
    I removed my port side fuel module today, I was curious to see how the water passages looked since it was the old style. I’m shocked 😳. I ordered the new fittings and will drill and tap them to fit.



    2008 330EC
  • aero3113aero3113 Long Island, NYMember Posts: 4,991 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I read that there isn’t much material to drill and tap. Instead, I bought a used module with 107 hrs on it. I’ll use my old one for parts if needed in the future.
    2008 330EC
  • reneechris14reneechris14 Pawcatuck river CTMember Posts: 2,633 ✭✭✭✭
    Can I take mine off and send them to you because seeing all your threads and all you have done to this boat you are a better man then me.lol
    2005 Rinker FV342  Pawcatuck river,Ct
  • aero3113aero3113 Long Island, NYMember Posts: 4,991 ✭✭✭✭✭
    @reneechris14 , your just across the sound from me, come on over! 
    2008 330EC
  • aero3113aero3113 Long Island, NYMember Posts: 4,991 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I cleaned out the water inlet and outlet today, it looks like tapping it might be possible. As you can see though, a lot of material has corroded away. I will install the fittings with a lot of sealant. I’m shocked this wasn’t leaking with the engine running. If it works it will stay on the shelf as a spare.


    2008 330EC
  • SpyderwebSpyderweb Syracuse, NYMember Posts: 434 ✭✭✭
    @aero3113 is this a problem more prone to salt water boats?
  • aero3113aero3113 Long Island, NYMember Posts: 4,991 ✭✭✭✭✭
    @Spyderweb , I’m not 100% sure but salt water definitely doesn’t help. Do you know if you have the old style fittings?
    2008 330EC
  • SpyderwebSpyderweb Syracuse, NYMember Posts: 434 ✭✭✭
    Don’t know what I got, but I suspect it would be the old style unless replaced by PO.  One more thing to check on when I get to see boat next spring.
  • aero3113aero3113 Long Island, NYMember Posts: 4,991 ✭✭✭✭✭
    The service bulletin calls out to use Perfect Seal on the threads of the new fittings, does anyone know if any other sealant will be good? I can’t see spending over $20 just to put a little bit on two fittings. @Alswagg ?
    2008 330EC
  • aero3113aero3113 Long Island, NYMember Posts: 4,991 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Teflon tape?
    2008 330EC
  • aero3113aero3113 Long Island, NYMember Posts: 4,991 ✭✭✭✭✭
    How about the sealant I bought for my through hull fitting?


    2008 330EC
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