Speakers for my 342
John41
Member Posts: 107 ✭✭
So I’m looking to upgrade my speakers. I was looking to buy the JBL 6520 but after looking at some of the reviews they said the speakers sounded great but the grills wouldn’t last. I’m looking for a Great sounding speaker without breaking the bank. It would be nice if they would come with lights but I would rather sound quality over looks.
Comments
I'm also looking to replace my 10" subwoofer. got a really good deal on a JBL 12", but now I don't want to go thru the mods of making the hole bigger & I also don't have a grille cover. I'm looking at Rockville MS10LW, but not sure.
Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express
2002 FV 342 on Lake St. Clair - Past Commodore SHC - Vessel Examiner USCGAUX
Go Steelers!!!
Audio pipe makes some decent amps that push what they are rated for. If they need replaced every few seasons it's not much money lost, maybe 425-475 for both subs and amp. My amp is 2 yrs old now in my daily, kept in the cabin of the boat id imagine it would last year's if kept dry. If your cabin doesnt have mold issues its dry enough. Our cabins probably have less humidity than my car trunk. While not mairne rated most non China crap speakers, head units and amps are built with corrosion, rust and moisture exposure in mind from waterproof coatings to waterproof materials, glues and sealer. Your door speakers are most likely hanging on the outside of the moisturizer barrier in all of your vehicles. They are constantly exposed to moisture.
I find the key to good sounding highs and mids is an amp, used more as a cross over but it keeps the sounds crisp and clean where a head unit alone tends to distort as you crank the volume.
PC BYC, Holland, MI
Digital designs are one of many. Just make sure you're comparing Apple's to Apple's. Dont compare DD entry level sub to a W6
Due to the nature of the open environment boats operate in, you inherently lose a lot of sound quality. For instance, in my truck I run Focal components in the front, and Focal coaxials in the back, with a JBL sub. Excellent sound quality all put together with a AudioControl d-6.1200 that has an excellent DSP.
The boat has 6 JL 7.7s, a infinite baffle 10", and 2 12" W6s and a lot of power. I have excellent sound reproduction, because that's what W6s are good at, and if I want to make some waves, I just turn the knob. That setup will play anything and sound good doing it. I would never spend the money on the Focals in the boat, regardless of how good they'd are, because so much of the quality is lost through the mid range just due to the envirominet they operate In, that they'd be so bright, all you'd have is ear piercing highs and a lot of lows.
Boats will never sound like car audio, when it comes to quality. Speaker placement options, outside noise, and an open cockpit will not properly recreate the sound. JL Audio for a marine application is very hard to beat. If only I could get it to sound like my old setup from my IASCA days, then I'd be happy. But the JL stuff does pretty dang good, for the money.
I'm more audiofile than noise making fan. For the money you can get louder and cleaner subs than jl audio. Im not knocking jl audio, they make a good product but just like buying Stihl equipment you are paying for name recognition. It's most always going to be good but there are better products our there that sound better for less money.
now, what I actually said was it’s hard to beat JL, be it speakers/subs or amps, and since this is a boat forum, I was stating that in the context of boats. I whole heartedly stand by that statement.
I also dont mix subs without making sure the specs on paper compliment one another, if the wave legnth or frequency dont jive you won't get good sounds. Specs are not the end all be all of speakers but if you don't use them as a guide starting point you'll be hit or miss when you hit play.
I consider jl audio and especially marine jl to be very expensive.
If you have access to speaker pods or the ability to do some wood work/fiberglass work there is no reason you cant plan your stereo system around a boat to fit properly. You dont have the sound deflection or enclosure of a vehicle so getting loud without distortion should be top priority to make up for lost acoustics. ive never set anyting up so the person behind the boat being towed can hear the music. My speaker level stops when in can hear the music yet still have a convo with people 25 ft away on a sandy beach.
With the selection of 6.5 and 8 inch subs that we didn't have 20 years ago there isn't much reason not to be able to properly fit enclosures. There is also a huge selection of shallow subs now we didn't have before. From voids in the cockpit walls to under seat storage, .5 to .75 c.f. of space will allow for many sub options. I find many of the subs located in the cabin of a boat to sound better than cockpit mounted subs due to the better acoustics and almost bandpass effect. It also keeps on deck storage space left open. I like smaller enclosures due to the tighter bass but some people prefer the large ported pounding. That's what she said.
Diesel is better...just so we stay relevant 😄
Music type
size and layout of boat
what people are willing to deal with for sound installation
we will have to agree to disagree in certain areas, as much of it boils down to installation, budget, and most of all, personal preference. If you’re ever in north Texas just let me know and I’ll let you listen to a well setup installation of JL stuff that wasn’t all that expensive, and it was setup by someone who competed in IASCA for 12 years.
2007 300 EC, 350 Mags, B3's, Table Rock Lake, MO