If yours are oblonged, take the bar to a basic machine shop, have them machine to accept a bushing, or fill with weld and bore to appreciate pin size. This would be minimal cost.
@rasbury , what aren’t you getting? The holes are oblonged, if I could post a video you will see that there is a ton of play. My starboard drive had about 3/8 of play side to side. Once they get bushed the pin will have no play in the hole. I stopped over at the machine shop today, they said it won’t be an issue to bush and ream to fit the pin. They go on vacation tomorrow till the new year. I’ll bring it back in a couple of weeks.
If you look at the first pic, you can see light coming through around the pin. This should be a very close tolerance fit. The pics don’t really show well.
I guess what I'm saying the little clearance in the pin I would not think create that much slop...now my out drive I can turn a lot without engaging the steering- and I have a new steering pin, 309 hours but it was the same when I bought it at 100 hours. .
listen to Al, I do not think that the bar is your issue. The steering pins are where most of the issue is. I bet a new bar would have the same play. Do you have any up and down movement in your drives
Guys, believe me, it’s the bar not the steering pin. I will post another picture later that will definitely show the slop. I’m very familiar with the steering pin, since I just had the pin on my old boat replaced last season.
Hmmm..if that is all the slop I have I'd be happy..hope your on the right track...to really see what's up, I would like to see the two parts together and see the slop- get the parts redone and see if that solves the problem, hope that's it! Elimate the things you find until resolved, that's the process.
If it were me id take the pin to my local hardware store and find a soft metal bushing that fits nice and snug, get a set of calipers and measure the o.d. and pick up a drill bit matching that o.d.
Drill out end to fit the bushing and press it in. Id want a nice nug fit, most likely mushrooming the bushing on each side then clean up center bore of the bushing(looks 3/8 or 5/16 in pics. Most likely mushrooming will affect the i.d. but id want the bushing tight in the tie rod end. Running the proper size drill bit through the busing before final install will ensure the pin will go through easily in case it was affected by pressing together.
Tada! Bushing for nice snug fit.
At the shop im not above cutting off a fixed tie rod end on a piece of equipment, welding a bolt or thread stock on to it and then installing a new thread on tie rod end thus making it serviceable rather than throw away. The ones off of john deere tractor are readily available aftermarket and are strong. Not sure if the stud is long enough for your application.
I spoke to the machine shop today, they talked me out of bushing the holes. Once the holes were drilled for the bushings there wouldn’t be much material left. Not worth taking a chance. They also mentioned that if the holes were welded and re-drilled it might get too brittle and eventually crack. I was able to find a part number for the whole assembly. I was surprised to see Great Lakes Skipper had two in stock. For a brand new assembly, $199 with free shipping. Part number 92020A2.
Comments
Thank you
Im going to assume that you didn't upgrade boats just because you wanted bigger, you ran out of things to repair or upgrade on your old boat!!!
@PickleRick , that’s funny!
I stopped over at the machine shop today, they said it won’t be an issue to bush and ream to fit the pin. They go on vacation tomorrow till the new year. I’ll bring it back in a couple of weeks.
Regards,
Ian
The Third “B”
Secretary, Ravena Coeymans Yacht Club
https://www.rcyachtclub.com/
Drill out end to fit the bushing and press it in. Id want a nice nug fit, most likely mushrooming the bushing on each side then clean up center bore of the bushing(looks 3/8 or 5/16 in pics. Most likely mushrooming will affect the i.d. but id want the bushing tight in the tie rod end. Running the proper size drill bit through the busing before final install will ensure the pin will go through easily in case it was affected by pressing together.
Tada! Bushing for nice snug fit.
At the shop im not above cutting off a fixed tie rod end on a piece of equipment, welding a bolt or thread stock on to it and then installing a new thread on tie rod end thus making it serviceable rather than throw away. The ones off of john deere tractor are readily available aftermarket and are strong. Not sure if the stud is long enough for your application.