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Leaky seal on bravo3
reneechris14
Member Posts: 3,134 ✭✭✭✭✭
Winter is here and have to do something boating so I took on the seal on my bravo3. Some may remember 3 years ago I posted a pic of a milk shake coming out of my bellows. Then for the past 2 winters I have had top seal replaced for $125. The seal seams to make it to September then I lose about 2 to 3 oz. Just enough to wipe up with a paper towel in the bellows. I have always removed my drives for the winter on my 342 and the 4 years I had my 270. I thought I post some pics for my rainy Saturday.
The seal is in the carrier is between the the theads and O-ring. The torque spec. is 6lbs to 10lbs rolling torque so a torque wrench not so good but fish scale was more accurate. The yoke was changed by PO and the U joints were tight last year and I wondered if the surface were the seal sat was scored. I have a spare drive so I swapped the assembly.
on reassembling there are timing marks on the clutch (shift assembly) need to have a + on one and a - on the other.
this the view from the front the cover on the back has to come off to verify the marks are lined up after the assembly is in stalled. You can see the last in staller did not put seal in flush to the carrier 
all so when you spend $23 bucks on Ebay don't think good stuff but it did work. The damage came from removing the 1st one use a rubber mallet after that.
the torque on the spanner nut is 200lbs but with an 18" torque wrench on the chart comes down to 120lbs do to the radius of the spanner and torque wrench.
you can see the seal on the finished product and I made sure to get it all the in and flush to the carrier 
The letters on the yoke of the U joints can help you identify the ratio of the drive. I believe most small block are 2.20.
and made a little jig to poor some jig head tomorrow who ever made this mold forgot lead melts at 500° so there is no touching to put hooks in or ooor lead
The seal is in the carrier is between the the theads and O-ring. The torque spec. is 6lbs to 10lbs rolling torque so a torque wrench not so good but fish scale was more accurate. The yoke was changed by PO and the U joints were tight last year and I wondered if the surface were the seal sat was scored. I have a spare drive so I swapped the assembly.on reassembling there are timing marks on the clutch (shift assembly) need to have a + on one and a - on the other.this the view from the front the cover on the back has to come off to verify the marks are lined up after the assembly is in stalled. You can see the last in staller did not put seal in flush to the carrier all so when you spend $23 bucks on Ebay don't think good stuff but it did work. The damage came from removing the 1st one use a rubber mallet after that.the torque on the spanner nut is 200lbs but with an 18" torque wrench on the chart comes down to 120lbs do to the radius of the spanner and torque wrench.you can see the seal on the finished product and I made sure to get it all the in and flush to the carrier The letters on the yoke of the U joints can help you identify the ratio of the drive. I believe most small block are 2.20.and made a little jig to poor some jig head tomorrow who ever made this mold forgot lead melts at 500° so there is no touching to put hooks in or ooor lead2005 Rinker FV342 Pawcatuck river,Ct
Comments
This is common practice in the automotive world where you have a high mile vehicle and an axle or gearbox that likes to weep gear oil.
Either way, if im having a seal failure multiple seasons and I'm 100% my install is proper Im going to try a heavier duty seal. You wont find cheap house brand double lip seals, they will be a seal brand that is a supplier for o.e.
Yes 6 to 7 lbs upon disassembly this is wear I learned the fish scale was more accurate then a click type torque wrench.
Only had to tap lightly to move the bearings (was very surprised)