Is anyone having any problems with your Rinker Q7 not starting?
q72020
Member Posts: 9 ✭
My 2020 Q7 is a month old and while the batteries are charged the engine doesn’t turn over. It’s been back to the dealer for service but no one seems to know what the problem is.
Answers
Does engine turn over?
Just getting a click when keyed?
Verify batteries are carged with volt meter?
Volt meter on the slave solenoid will verify key is working and powered?
This boat is new the dealer should take care of this..
next thing would be items that have a high failure rate early, and if they pass that stage they don't fail until ripe old age- I'm looking at the main breaker, here. bypass it. see if this remedies your issue.. next, battery switches if equipped- they're easy enough to check with only an eye having at least 40/20 vision... then, helm switches. make sure your dead man switch is functional (connected to your lanyard). Make sure your neutral interrupt is functional and/or not malfunctioning. I could tell you how to pin it out- but that is a more complicated than simply pushing the throttle/gear slightly forward (slowly) while holding the key to start, and if that doesn't work pulling it slightly and slowly backward to see if the starter engages at any point during your 'testing'. if it does it indicates an out of adjustment circumstance at the helm.
give these a run and report back?
based on your description there is little doubt it isn't electrical. given your description you've isolated it to a key series of events that have to happen to even send power to the starter... based on the fact the starter kicked just fine prior, and engine fired without your noting difficulty, you can eliminate most if not all major concerns (read:expenses).
check connections. check them again. you should hear a 'click' if the main starting solenoid was faulting- but you'll need to check the connections on it, too... wiggle the gear/throttle lever AS you're holding the key to start- wiggle the key a bit as you're hitting start too (may be a bad ignition switch)... check battery connections... check connections to the helm.. make sure the little button on the shift interrupt isn't sticking (it is a rocker looking thingy thing where your throttle and gear cables attach to your engine atop the intake manifold- if you have someone shift while you're looking at the engine you'll see them move, and you should notice the little button that is depressed as it passes between neutral and in either forward or reverse)... I offer the detail on that last one because you mentioned you were in reverse momentarily in order to load-up...
whatever it is, it's small and it's not a big deal to swap. and, it could be anyone's 'brand new boat' regardless of label on the side of the boat.
pay close attention to YOUR procedures when your starting, and share them with us here... this may be even simpler than an (almost) inconsequential electrical function.
I'm thinking a false fault signal for low oil or water pressure or some such and it's shutting down. With an outboard you should also have the safety tether, make sure it isn't coming loose on you.
2018 Cherokee 39RL Land Yacht (Sorry...)
And it'll tell you what the real or imagined issue is.
2018 Cherokee 39RL Land Yacht (Sorry...)
.....if he's any kind of mechanic at all. Beep codes go way back on outboards. Before all the electronic displays it was how you could tell what an issue was. Low oil pressure on a four stroke. Low oil in the reservoir in a two stroke. Overheat situation etc.
2018 Cherokee 39RL Land Yacht (Sorry...)
PC BYC, Holland, MI
I'd still suspect something in the wiring harness/safety tether etc.
A bad connection or some such. Anyway, best of luck and please keep us posted. We're all rooting for ya.
2018 Cherokee 39RL Land Yacht (Sorry...)
Without a solid connection you won't be able to do anything... SOMETIMES you'll have enough connection to run low Amp consumption devices, but as soon as you attempt to draw power of any significance through it? It will act like a dead battery. As it's losing connection it will get worse and worse, until it gets jostled just right and you'll have everything back momentarily... just to lose connection again.
It is a common point of failure as dealers install outboards. There should be an access panel if you follow the harness into the hull... it may be hidden in the bottom of a hatched hold, but it will be there. Pop it off... it's most likely a 9/16's wrench... pull OFF both sides, apply dielectric grease, reassemble. Both sides... nice and snug, and advise to have a star washer in between lug and nut.
This is what your issue sounds like to me, and other than that (on a new motor) I'd look directly at the computer (which will fail at beginning of life far more often than middle life)... I wager on the described connection. Get in there and tighten it.. its a ten minute job.