Some help please...Couple questions on Windlass Lewmar 1000 installation for 280EC
tk1973
Member Posts: 122 ✭✭
Hey guys, so i thought I'd tackle the windlass installation today on my 280EC. Huge pain in the **** taking apart the bow interior to gain access to the terminal block. Had to cut some of the plywood wall. o clue how to remove the side shelving, but thankfully didn't need to.
On a positive note, it looks like all the wiring to the terminal block is already 4AWG. All the wiring at the switches and breaker at the helm were already 4AWG.
The wiring attached to the new windlass looks to be smaller gauge maybe 8. But it's only for around 4 ft it seems. Is this an issue? I would lean to no if it came that way from Lewmar. I will connect that to the terminal block in the bow.
Where I get stuck is do I need to use the contactor that came with the kit. When I took apart the dash and saw the circuit breaker I realize I need to change that with the 70amp one that it came with. When I looked at the existing switch it seems like it had all 4AWG wiring to it from the breaker and not connected to any sort of contactor block.
Could I just change the breaker and leave the existing switch or do I even need to use the contacter and then low voltage wiring to the new switch. The old switch had no issues and seems pretty beefy.
Not really an electrician so trying to sort it out. Appreciate it.
On a positive note, it looks like all the wiring to the terminal block is already 4AWG. All the wiring at the switches and breaker at the helm were already 4AWG.
The wiring attached to the new windlass looks to be smaller gauge maybe 8. But it's only for around 4 ft it seems. Is this an issue? I would lean to no if it came that way from Lewmar. I will connect that to the terminal block in the bow.
Where I get stuck is do I need to use the contactor that came with the kit. When I took apart the dash and saw the circuit breaker I realize I need to change that with the 70amp one that it came with. When I looked at the existing switch it seems like it had all 4AWG wiring to it from the breaker and not connected to any sort of contactor block.
Could I just change the breaker and leave the existing switch or do I even need to use the contacter and then low voltage wiring to the new switch. The old switch had no issues and seems pretty beefy.
Not really an electrician so trying to sort it out. Appreciate it.
Comments
Regards,
Ian
The Third “B”
Secretary, Ravena Coeymans Yacht Club
https://www.rcyachtclub.com/
Go Steelers!!!
PC BYC, Holland, MI
And Black_Diamond, when I checked it seemed that 4AWG was suitable for the length and amperage of the boat. Guess I got lucky.