Outdrive anti fouling paint

GMSLITHO

What outdrive anti fouling paint works best for salt water ,I’m on a lake but looking for a recommendation for my brother his drive got eaten up last year on the Hudson and it’s brackish 

aero3113

If it got eaten up real bad it could be a stray current from a different boat or dock. It’s definitely something to look out for. I had a slip neighbor that didn’t do any maintenance, engine didn’t even run. The end of that season all of my anodes were 100% gone. The marina kicked her out, next season my anodes almost looked like new when the boat came out.

LaRea

If the drive got eaten up in brackish water, it could be an electrical problem -- either on his boat, or a neighbor's.  

Let me guess.  He's slipped next to an older boat whose owner never visits, but leaves the shore power plugged in all the time.  Probably a sailboat.  I struggled with corrosion for 15 years until the old sailboat next to me moved to the other end of the pier.  Then my corrosion problems suddenly disappeared.  

The main reason to use anti-fouling paint on outdrives is to control marine fouling, not corrosion.  But once you have corrosion, you probably need to touch up the paint annually.  

aero3113

@LaRea , looks like we’re on the same page....

GMSLITHO

Way Beyoncé touch up he has to replace the drive it’s so eaten up . The PO added so much electrical stump added there is wiring run all over .to be honest I never saw anything like it and my dads old wood pacemaker had a couple miles of wire running through it 

GMSLITHO

How would you check for all that 

Aqua_Aura

My dock neighbors boat in freshwater would eat my anodes after about a year. Well last year his boat started sinking so they fixed whatever the issue was and moved the boat to another circuit and now after a year my anodes are barely touched. 

Now on the subject of anti fouling paint I don't think that would help with electrical current in the water. 

Black_Diamond

reference electrode:

https://boatzincs.com/corrosion-reference-electrode-specs.html

The incorrect ‘zincs’ in brackish water can cause problems too. 

Aqua_Aura

Yes that is the other issue boaters don't realize. They may be called zincs but that is sorta incorrect. Technically they are sacrificial or less noble metal anodes and there is three types. Zinc is for saltwater, aluminum is for brackish and magnesium is for freshwater. 

Galvanic corrosion or electrolysis is much more prevalent in saltwater so you may need zinc anodes and a galvanic isolator. 

aero3113

GMSLITHO said:

How would you check for all that 

There’s a probe you can use to stick in the water.

Aqua_Aura

You can use use a multimeter probe in the water I don't recall the exact process but if you look it up Google will explain it, they even showed me how babies were made. 

GMSLITHO

Come on you really didn’t learn how babies were made on google did you 

GMSLITHO

Also it’s easier to get a better answer from right here than searching google 

Aqua_Aura

No it wasn't Google it was actually a much more adult site 😂. 

I think you put the multimeter on the ground block and the other probe in the water and check for current levels. It was a whole process that I never did but I did read about it. 

Aqua_Aura

This is the process here. I think there is a few ways to do it. 

https://www.powerandmotoryacht.com/uncategorized/stray-current-test

Black_Diamond

Follow the boat zincs link. Instructions there. 

I have that reference electrode, willing to loan out to a fellow Rinker person on here. PM me if interested. 

Ian

That site also tells you the right ones to use.