Replacing the Zincs on a 2005 270 Fiesta Vee

chuckrace6

The previous owner told me to pull the Props (duo-props) and there is a Zinc behind them. Is the zinc inside this area or on the outside of the Drive and you need to pull the props for access?

Willhound

His 2003 shouldn't have the prop nut anode unless someone added the adapter kit. And props don't come off to change it anyway. But yes, align the props if you do remove them....

Willhound

No, you shouldn't have to remove the props. To do so requires a special tol for the rear prop anyway. On your 2003 there should be . One on each trim cylinder, one under the stabilizer fin and one just in front of the leg underneath the cavitation plate above the props. That one does require an extra long allan key to remove/install. But no need to remove props as stated. Later models, usually post 2004 also had one that spun on the prop nut but unless some installed a conversion kit for it I doubt It's on your 2003.
And remember to get the proper anodes depending on salt, fresh or brackish water. For example, I am in fresh water so mine are actually magnesium.
A good source of info here:
https://www.boatzincs.com/bravo2-3-kit.html

I am not connected with this company but have been buying my anodes from them for several years now as they have very competitive pricing and fast shipping.

And I just found this from the West Marine website as a guide:

Zinc for aluminum or salt water: If you are a saltwater boater, you should install zinc or aluminum anodes to prevent galvanic corrosion on the engine and underwater parts of your boat.

Magnesium for fresh water ONLY: Since fresh water is much less conductive than salt water, magnesium anodes are the best choice because they’re more active (less noble) than zinc or aluminum so they will protect your engine parts more effectively. Caution: do not use magnesium anodes in any application other than fresh water because they will corrode rapidly, exposing your boat and engine to possible damage.

Aluminum for brackish water: More active than zinc, aluminum anodes are a good compromise where fresh and salt water mix, such as the brackish water of river deltas, or if you use your boat in a variety of water types. Zinc is too passive for brackish water, where it gets covered in a zinc oxide film and becomes inactive. Magnesium corrodes too rapidly (due to the water’s salt content), leaving your boat without adequate protection.

PickleRick

The alpha one has the zinc behind the prop, probably what he was thinking.

On the bravo isnt there one behind the prop nut? 

aero3113

On Bravo III it screws into the shaft after the prop but.

aero3113

Prop nut, strange it won’t let me edit my post?

aero3113

LaRea

Don't forget to align the props.  

https://rinkerboats.vanillacommunities.com/discussion/comment/132535#Comment_132535

Willhound

Hmmmm. Mines not allowing me to edit either. Anyway, my apologies for mis-reading. Thought I saw 2003 but obviously is 2005 so yes there is likely a prop nut anode also. 

PickleRick

Wasnt the alignment of the props a big argument (not gas vs diesel or hard vs soft top) as to align or don't align.


Either way get a new prop nut.  Nylon isnt reusable and imho neither is a 5 dollar crush lock nut when it's holding 1k worth of props on.