Use of 90 octane gas
Remembrance
Member Posts: 30 ✭
I have a Mercruiser 6.2l and have always used regular gas. My marina only offers 90 octane gas. Will I have any issues if I use the 90 octane?
Comments
PC BYC, Holland, MI
Regards,
Ian
The Third “B”
Secretary, Ravena Coeymans Yacht Club
https://www.rcyachtclub.com/
Octane is the opposite of what people think. The higher octane number represents a less volatile & better controlled burn. Higher compression motors need the higher octane because as compression goes up - so does the chance of pre-detonation, spark knock, run-on. All bad things for modern motors.
87 is actually more volatile & less predictable. Minimum standard for most motors with normal compression.
I say this from direct experience. Non-ethanol fuel is not sold at any marina within 100 miles of me. I've been running only E10 for 20+ years (three boats, total 1500 hours). I've never had an issue with E10 fuel, and never known anyone who had problems with it.
Don't leave E10 sitting in a tank for 1-2 years, but in normal use it's fine.
I put in stabilizer each time i fill up. Id do the same with non ethanol. My boat is paid for by those who dont use fuel stabilizer
2018 Cherokee 39RL Land Yacht (Sorry...)
A lot of people say that running E10 in a boat can have catastrophic consequences. Maybe that has been true in isolated cases. There's no widespread evidence of it here in the land of 89 octane E10.
The cute gas jockey girls always ask, you want the cheap gas? Or the good stuff?
Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express
i had a set of ski-do's in the four stroke variety, closed cooling rated at 265hp (boosted). i ran rec fuel in the 91 to 93, sometimes 94 octane rating and those skiis would break 70mph and tickle 75mph in the right environmental conditions.. same everything except running 93oct e10 and i could barely break 60mph... there was that much difference... i'd also blow through a tank of fuel in about 2/3rds the time running e10 than rec fuel.
blue fuel is still a thing around here... it's literally blue- dyed... it's E0 105~110octane racing fuel. it's out of my way to get and there is no benefit to running it in any engine i now own, BUT... you could take, in theory, a boosted engine with 11:1 mechanical ratio or somewhere around 9:1 dynamic ratio and feed it that stuff, and advance spark way up there around 37*~38*, and see some major benefit.... it's kinda funny, though, because you can NOW do the same (as @69fastback offered) with E85 and a tune designed for it... just don't expect it to take you as far as gasoline will... no matter what a tune does, it can't add to the stored energy by volume of gasoline... sorta like gasoline can't compete with the stored energy by volume of diesel...
the problem with ethanol in a boat is a: corrosion. and with a modern engine that has fuel system parts to account for that corrosion it's b: it attracts water.
2018 Cherokee 39RL Land Yacht (Sorry...)
a soft gas line back then was a piece of black hose, as an example... now, it's still black on the outside, but has layers on the interior- one of which is impervious to decay/oxidation and breaking up.... sending parts of it throughout the fuel system, engine, and into the catalytic converter....
i built a mopar 360/408 for a tow motor (RV 'sausage' cam) from the ground up once... i pulled the injectors and the baskets had a film that was visibly dark on them... after replacing the keg intake manifold with an edlebrock air-gap, and moving the fuel lines as a result (specifically the rail's cross over) that problem went away for the most part. After pulling it to get to a collapsed lifter not long after and inspecting the rail- there was now a whitish 'oxidized' look to the interior of the rail (seen from the ends anyway), and that was the ethanol eating up a metal that wasn't designed for it... swapping rails to a billet steel and whatever magic of metallurgy chemical compound coating, that too went away... in the mean time, running E0 solved it...
we aren't talking months, here, we're talking weeks that stuff attacked that engine. I can't imagine what it would have done had i just let it go.
i tried to order a carb kit for a leaf blower including the lines and bulbs, and was to be charged $65... i could buy a new one for $80!!!! so.... i stopped buying crap ones and went to the 'actual' ones- and have never had a problem.
engineered to fail.... planned obsolescence... grrrrrrrrrrrr............
and while i'm on the subject, i helped a buddy remount his 2006 HDPI 2stroke yamaha 300hp outboard a few weeks ago (huge thanks to @Alswagg for the info/help!!!) and found there were literally 2 sets of head gaskets for those things in the entirety of North America... they are getting hard to find parts for... why? trying to push folks to newer engines, that's why... under copyright for a few more years- and by the time it expires there won't be any around...
planned.... obsolescence...
the 265's were a bit bigger and black.... and bright yellow. black and bright yellow was hideous, but those things 'out of the hole' seemed every bit as fast as a yamaha v-max mc in the 1/8th mile... or even a hayabusa.... i'm talking no kidding 0-60 in under four seconds.. i said under four seconds.. they all but the 110hp top out about the same around 75mph (the 155 on E10 would only run 63~64ish, but every bit of 70 on E0). i could (and did) pull skiers with both the 155 and 265, but the 265 would pull a slalom skier out as if they weren't even there.
here is a funny about those that i learned later: the displacement between the 130hp version and 155 is notta... the 155's have a bigger throttle body and tuned differently... the difference between the 130HP and the 210HP is the 210 is boosted (with larger injectors)... the 255HP was a boosted version of the 155HP (with still larger TB and injectors)... all four had different tunes. the 265HP was a different animal pretty much altogether from what i understand, and i became frustrated with them as they liked to overheat....... i feel they did that is because the heat exchange (a plate on the bottom on all the models of that series) was the same. they handled the 130/155hp versions with ease- the 210 toed the line of usefulness- and the 255/265 models were under equipped for the energy created... the dash on those things would literally turn red (the bezel rings) and they would do nothing but idle- which is what you had to do keeping water flowing through them.
insofar as ski's- i've a cabin outside of Iron River that has a trail run right beside it... those guys have some ridiculously built machines up there. those things are so wicked fast it defies any expectation- a cousin of my wife also flies planes up there- has a landing strip at his camp in the watersmeet area... they drag race those things on that strip from time to time... i would LOVE to ride one of those, but.... I don't want anyone watching until i've figured out how to tame them.
For those who don't know, the key used either restricts the tuning/governor, or unlocks it. Yellow key limits both and red key unlocks both.