Wiring for new electronics

RiverRat232RiverRat232 Member Posts: 596 ✭✭✭
I am adding a couple of electronics at the helm area where there were none before. I am thinking about running a positive and negative live from the battery to underneath the dash and using a bus bar or lugs instead of running each device separately. Good idea? What gauge wire should I use? Any and all advice is appreciated. 

Comments

  • PickleRickPickleRick Member Posts: 4,038 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited July 2020
    What kind of electronics?   I usually run my fish finder/gps in with the cig outlet. Any additional gauges i run with my existing gauges. This keeps me from having to run even more wires to the dash.






  • RiverRat232RiverRat232 Member Posts: 596 ✭✭✭
    edited July 2020
    @PickleRick
     Chartplotter/fishfinder and a VHF radio.
  • LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 7,765 mod
    A dedicated line from the battery is nice because it helps avoid having the electronics reboot when you crank the engine.  And yes, a bus is a good idea because you never know what else you might add up there.

    Do you know the current (amps) of each item?  
  • PickleRickPickleRick Member Posts: 4,038 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Gps would be plenty fine wiring into your cig lighter.  Its meant to take amps and even charging 2 phones plus the gps youll be well undrer its designated amps

    As for the vhf id be tempted to run a dedicated wire up front for that guy unless your ignition switch had a 12v hot all the time so long as battery selector is on.  Id then tie into there.    Less wires front to back mean less spaghettie.  

    Neither of those pull serious amps and both will have smaller wiring than what youll be tying into.

    Used tape with gps/vhf written on it to identify wires and neatly zip tie everthing into place.

    Youll only need to snake your transducer wiring.

    As ive said before i always snake 2 wires, one to leave in place if i ever add something else.

    Id only run dedicated wiring if im adding a spot light, amp, pumps, etc that draw serious amps.  I think youll find 10 amp or less fuses on each of those. 


  • IanIan Member Posts: 2,869 ✭✭✭✭
    @RiverRat232 a 10G will provide for 25-30A, a 12 up to 20A so for what you are running and length that is ample. May sure each device has its own fuse rated for the unit. 

    Regards,

    Ian

    The Third “B”

    Secretary, Ravena Coeymans Yacht Club

    https://www.rcyachtclub.com/

  • RiverRat232RiverRat232 Member Posts: 596 ✭✭✭
    icoultha said:
    @RiverRat232 a 10G will provide for 25-30A, a 12 up to 20A so for what you are running and length that is ample. May sure each device has its own fuse rated for the unit. 
     I don't think either of things I am installing are power hogs. I might install some extra USB charging ports as well.  Do you think 10 gauge will be hard to fish?

  • PickleRickPickleRick Member Posts: 4,038 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Its always hard to fish when its hot outside
  • IanIan Member Posts: 2,869 ✭✭✭✭
    icoultha said:
    @RiverRat232 a 10G will provide for 25-30A, a 12 up to 20A so for what you are running and length that is ample. May sure each device has its own fuse rated for the unit. 
     I don't think either of things I am installing are power hogs. I might install some extra USB charging ports as well.  Do you think 10 gauge will be hard to fish?

    Being stiffer it is likely easier once you get a draw wire through and less likely to snag and twist. I use various method of getting wires routed from years of experience, sometimes a wheel lug nut on a string tossed through is enough to find a path.

    Regards,

    Ian

    The Third “B”

    Secretary, Ravena Coeymans Yacht Club

    https://www.rcyachtclub.com/

  • RiverRat232RiverRat232 Member Posts: 596 ✭✭✭
    I think I'll wait for the temperature to drop before I try to fish the wire. My patience plummets as the mercury rises.
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