Starting Problem 350Mag 2004

halifax212

Hi All, I have been putting up with this problem fo a while now but it seems to be getting worse. Here is what is going on.
1) Turn key to start - starter turns a couple cycles then stops(key is still held in start position.
2) Turn key to start - starter turns a couple cycles then stops(key is still held in start position.
3) Turn key to start - starter turns a couple cycles then stops(key is still held in start position.
4) Turn key to start - starter turns a couple cycles then stops(key is still held in start position....this time I do not release the key , it picks back up for a couple more cycles, quits , tries again and this time cranks longer resulting in a start.

I am afraid one of these times it just won't start.  I installed a new slave solenoid this Spring since I was having this issue last year.  Why is the starter quitting after only a couple cycles? 

Aqua_Aura

Probably a bad starter or solenoid? It could maybe be a battery but I assume it is charged on shore power?

halifax212

I'll start with the battery tomorrow. 

212rowboat

You've got a bad connection somewhere. I'd start at the slave solenoid... dont trust appearance... take it off, clean it, hit it with dielectric grease, reassemble... 

Since you're there and have stuff, do same to starter connection... do same to starter battery connection and battery switch... 

Go to dash and pull out key switch... clease, grease, deassamble... close the spades a little with pliers to ensure good connection.... i highly rec an all brass switch... i picked one up off Amazon for $15... it doesn't use spade connections, it uses ring and screw connections.  You will be concerned with the solid yellow wire at dash (starter wire).. 


Also... check your risers.  If you're ingesting water, that is how it will manifest at first. If that is what it is, itll only get worse until you encounter full out hydro lock.... how can you tell quickly? When it stops turning, go back and grab the battery cable leading to starter... if its hot? Its drawing a lot of amps trying to turn, and just doesn't have the torque to do it (water doesn't compress but valves do open to relieve the pressure if its only a little water... they also open to draw water in thats resting against backsides of exhaust valve).... before the 90a fuse (on the starter) goes that battery cable will be hot to the touch.  

halifax212

Thanks @212rowboat. . I'll start with  the connections. I had the risers off 2 years ago for a look and they seemed ok. Replaced with new OEM gaskets.  

raybo3

I would check the key switch. You could check it with a meter or just replace it. They are pretty cheap. Now I have a rant (sorry 212rowboat) why do people say cover it with "dielectric grease" then make the connection? No No No dielectric grease is non conductive. Proper use is to make connections then apply to keep water and moisture off of connection. The proper "stuff" to use before connections is "No Ox" that is a conductive grease. OK sorry for the rant but I hear this all the time and its the wrong thing to do....... Just say'n  

halifax212

If I jump the solenoid on top will that take the ignition out of play? I just cleaned the terminals and moved the wires with the ring ends to the small battery posts to "clean it up".  Now I have nothing. Going to move them back to the large terminal.

raybo3

@halifax212 yes if you jump the solenoid it will take the ignition out of the circuit. If you turn the ignition to the "on" position and jump the solenoid the boat should start. 

halifax212

OMG I think I got it! Cleaned and brass brushed terminal, reinstalled and it has started PERFECT 3 times so far.  Still testing but so far so good.

rasbury

Which terminal? Dont burn up your starter testing it!

halifax212

Everything is put back on the large terminals on the battery, which is where they were before I started. Main heavy wire plus a couple smaller with the ring on the ends. 

rasbury

So just cleaned up the battery terminal? I'm having issue with anchor and thinking battery...going to look at connections today. They are at least 3 years old...

halifax212

@212rowboat  @raybo3  @Aqua_Aura   Thanks guys for motivating me to get out there and try to trouble shoot it. I have never heard it crank so strong!  Cleaned and brass brushed all wire ends and terminals, so far so good.  I read on an auto site last night that its 80/20.  80% of the time its wires/connections and 20% of the time its parts. So glad it was not parts! Off to the Bay today for more vacation.

Brian

halifax212

@rasbury. Honestly I don't recall ever scrubbing the connections / terminals like that in 10 years. I put the battery in in the Spring and that is it. I've never heard it turn over so strong!

Aqua_Aura

It's surprising how a seemingly good connection can just need a little scrub and suddenly everything is fixed. 

212rowboat

Dielectric is to protect it from corrosion. What works every bit as good if not better? Plain ol Vaseline.  You will NOT get corrosion on electrical connections if you have vaseline lightly applied. 

rasbury

I'm going to pull mine today...its been like I said 3 years or so since the battery went in...have not touched them...

Black_Diamond

Iike disc brake pad anti-squeal spray on battery connections. Works great on other open connections too. Just have to mask or it goes everywhere. lol

halifax212

Update. It seems the culprit here is the short wire leading to the 20A fuse. The original lug was mashed and torn. This wire sends power to the gauges/switches/ radio and key switch.  My son repaired the lug and we thought we nailed it. It started strong once again but the next day lost power to the dash. We turned on the blower and started wiggling wires to  try to get the blower to come on. When we moved the same wire with the new lug the blower came on.  I am looking at a replacement fuse holder with 12g wires. Will the 12g connect to the existing 10g without a problem? 
PS Notice how there is no cover on the fuse? It was like that when I bought the boat and only noticed it was missing by shopping for a new one. Had no clue there was supposed to be a cover on it.    One more thing , the 2 positive lugged wires have always been attached to the main cable crushed together. Is it ok to place the 2 lugged wires on the small terminal and have the main by itself on the large post? Same goes for the negative side.17 years of moisture getting in has caused a break in the wire. 

Dream_Inn

Nice find!

LaRea

You can put two ring terminals on a post, and that will give you more contact area than having one on the terminal clamp because the mating surfaces are flatter.  It's best not to stack more than two.  

Did you mean replace a smaller wire (12 AWG) with a larger wire (10 AWG)?  Not the other way around.

halifax212

@LaRea  Correct . I saw one at a local marine supply with 12g to connect the the factory 10g.  If the 12g is ample I will buy it.