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Starting Problem 350Mag 2004
halifax212
Member Posts: 553 ✭✭✭
Hi All, I have been putting up with this problem fo a while now but it seems to be getting worse. Here is what is going on.
1) Turn key to start - starter turns a couple cycles then stops(key is still held in start position.
2) Turn key to start - starter turns a couple cycles then stops(key is still held in start position.
3) Turn key to start - starter turns a couple cycles then stops(key is still held in start position.
4) Turn key to start - starter turns a couple cycles then stops(key is still held in start position....this time I do not release the key , it picks back up for a couple more cycles, quits , tries again and this time cranks longer resulting in a start.
I am afraid one of these times it just won't start. I installed a new slave solenoid this Spring since I was having this issue last year. Why is the starter quitting after only a couple cycles?
1) Turn key to start - starter turns a couple cycles then stops(key is still held in start position.
2) Turn key to start - starter turns a couple cycles then stops(key is still held in start position.
3) Turn key to start - starter turns a couple cycles then stops(key is still held in start position.
4) Turn key to start - starter turns a couple cycles then stops(key is still held in start position....this time I do not release the key , it picks back up for a couple more cycles, quits , tries again and this time cranks longer resulting in a start.
I am afraid one of these times it just won't start. I installed a new slave solenoid this Spring since I was having this issue last year. Why is the starter quitting after only a couple cycles?
Comments
Since you're there and have stuff, do same to starter connection... do same to starter battery connection and battery switch...
Go to dash and pull out key switch... clease, grease, deassamble... close the spades a little with pliers to ensure good connection.... i highly rec an all brass switch... i picked one up off Amazon for $15... it doesn't use spade connections, it uses ring and screw connections. You will be concerned with the solid yellow wire at dash (starter wire)..
Also... check your risers. If you're ingesting water, that is how it will manifest at first. If that is what it is, itll only get worse until you encounter full out hydro lock.... how can you tell quickly? When it stops turning, go back and grab the battery cable leading to starter... if its hot? Its drawing a lot of amps trying to turn, and just doesn't have the torque to do it (water doesn't compress but valves do open to relieve the pressure if its only a little water... they also open to draw water in thats resting against backsides of exhaust valve).... before the 90a fuse (on the starter) goes that battery cable will be hot to the touch.
Brian
PC BYC, Holland, MI
PS Notice how there is no cover on the fuse? It was like that when I bought the boat and only noticed it was missing by shopping for a new one. Had no clue there was supposed to be a cover on it. One more thing , the 2 positive lugged wires have always been attached to the main cable crushed together. Is it ok to place the 2 lugged wires on the small terminal and have the main by itself on the large post? Same goes for the negative side.
Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express
Did you mean replace a smaller wire (12 AWG) with a larger wire (10 AWG)? Not the other way around.