Waeco Fridge - Not Cold Enough!

YYZRC

My original 2008 era Waeco galley fridge needed a new thermostat last fall as the dial to adjust temp would just spin endlessly. Swapped it out with the same part and it works but it doesn’t get cold enough. 

The cockpit fridge (also original Waeco) doesn’t get cold enough either. 

Both have strong door seals. The cabin fridge is especially good and I fight the suction force when I open it. 

Thoughts on how I can troubleshoot?

Thanks!

aero3113

My cabin fridge was doing the same, new house batteries and the fridge stays cold now on 12V.

Handymans342

I believe the fridge has a 110 to 12 volt converter so if no 110 it uses 12 V and if it drops below 10.5 then it’s stops working. Verify with volt meter. 

YYZRC

I have three brand new house batteries showing 13v on the panel. Will pull the fridge and check volts at the fridge itself. 

YYZRC

Seems to be working on 12v and 120v the same. Just not cold enough. Both fridges are set at 7. 

Liberty44140

Do you have a lot of frost on the cold plate? How thick?

aero3113

Make sure your door seal has a good seal. 

aero3113

Mine was missing and didn’t realize till the fridge wouldn’t cool.

YYZRC

Door seal is good. Not much frost and what is there is very “loose”. I will defrost today just to see if that helps. 

aero3113

If your your freezer is working I would think the fridge should. 

YYZRC

Yes that’s what is so frustrating. The freezer works great. 

aero3113

Double check the fridge door seal.

Willhound

Yep. Take a piece of writing paper and close the door on it. If you can pull it out the seal is weak.

YYZRC

I ordered a new thermostat. Seems to be about the only thing that can be replaced. 

Has anyone else replaced a thermostat in these CR fridges? The thermostat includes a long tube (I think it’s called a thermistor) that goes in the fridge wall - does it matter how this tube is routed? I just pushed it in when I swapped the thermostat on the cabin fridge (tried to follow the path of the old one). 

Liberty44140

Agree with you on defrosting, when the frost builds up it covers the coolant so the fridge won’t cool. Frost should be more of a thin sheet. Looks like hot air is getting in so agree to re check that door seal. Rubbing silicone grease on the seal can make a big difference 

Spyderweb

YYZRC said:

Seems to be working on 12v and 120v the same. Just not cold enough. Both fridges are set at 7. 

Is that your fridge and freezer temps?

YYZRC

No - left is cockpit fridge and right is cabin fridge. 

The compressor is running and hot. It is either not releasing heat sufficiently (is there a small fan on the coil?) or it’s low on refrigerant. Scrap pile I think. 

Spyderweb

Are you saying 40 is not cold enough for the fridge?

YYZRC

40 is good (galley fridge), 51 no good (cockpit fridge).

YYZRC

New idea.  what if I rip the freezer door off and make it one big fridge?  The compressor seems to work well enough to keep the freezer below 32.  I'm not sure if there are refrigerant lines in the "floor" of the freezer; if not I could possibly remove that too.

@Handymans342 your thoughts, please as I believe you have some expertise in this area!

YYZRC

Update. Left the boat Saturday night and filled the cockpit freezer with freezes. Got to the boat just now and the cockpit fridge made it down to 51 over the past 48 hours. Freezes are rock solid. 

I pulled the door off the freezer and temp is dropping nicely. I will pull the fridge and see if the computer fan is dead or not. Otherwise I expect the door seal is not great (tho it seems ok based on the paper test) and I will replace over the winter. Expensive at around one boat buck 

redlightning

Where did you get that thermometer set up.  I want one.  

YYZRC

Amazon. “Acurite”. Works great!! And it has the range to measure both fridges anywhere in the boat. 

Spyderweb

Can't find that AcuRite.  Does it have a model number?

YYZRC

It was on Amazon Canada

AcuRite 00515M Refrigerator Thermometer with 2 Wireless Temperature Sensors & Customizable Alarms for Fridge & Freezer, Stainless Steel Finish, 4.25" x 3.75"

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07XD68GX6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ADzkFbFJW31AH

Liberty44140

I may snag this for the same purpose:

https://www.amazon.com/ORIA-Refrigerator-Thermometer-Wireless-Restaurants/dp/B07B9QF64N/ref=sr_1_7?crid=15VG4UPIKRENK&dchild=1&keywords=wireless+refrigerator+thermometer+with+2+sensors&qid=1596561599&sprefix=wireless+ref%2Caps%2C175&sr=8-7

YYZRC

I now have a flashing red light (5 second intervals) which normally indicates low voltage but can also be a “poly fuse” fault. Apparently a known issue with Waeco fridges. 

YYZRC

I ran a 10 gauge wire from the fridge to the panel (via the bow) and wired it to the accessory breaker. Fridge now works without issues!

I swapped the hinge and touched up the paint on the frame while I was at it. 

aero3113

Do you think it was bad wiring or a bad breaker?

YYZRC

I think the electronics in the fridge are just finicky. Maybe it was the poly fuse or whatever freaks out when voltage drops below 10.2, I’m not sure. But at least for now the heavy gauge wiring is doing the job. 

Edit: I just pulled the spade connector off the DC breaker and it was very loose - maybe that was my issue all along! 

Handymans342

YYZRC said:

I think the electronics in the fridge are just finicky. Maybe it was the poly fuse or whatever freaks out when voltage drops below 10.2, I’m not sure. But at least for now the heavy gauge wiring is doing the job. 

Edit: I just pulled the spade connector off the DC breaker and it was very loose - maybe that was my issue all along! 

Yes