Magnesium Anode kit

mfritz

I have a Rinker 2008 350 I purchase about a month ago. It has Bravo III.  Looks like I will need to change the Anodes on both engines. Is there a way you can change them in the water? It would be very costly to pull out of the water.   

LaRea

Maybe -- if you could anchor in shallow water at the perfect depth, and you could stand up while working, and the water is really clear.  It would not be easy.  You will probably be better off doing a "short haul" to replace them while the boat is in the sling.  

Take advantage of the haul-out to make a detailed inspection of the drives for any signs of corrosion.  If you see any flaking or bubbling in the paint, it needs attention to keep it from getting worse.  

aero3113

Change them if they look like there around 50% or more gone, if not keep them.

TonyG13

Agree with @aero3113 - if it's got at least 50% you could wait until season's end. I couldn't image trying to do it in the water. Too many small things you could drop and get lost. You probably should also do your trim tabs while you're at it.

YYZRC

I swapped props in shallow clear water with no issues. For sure you could do the anodes. Rams are easy, prop anodes are easy, the only challenge might be the ones in the anti cavitation plate.

If you’re not switching from salt water to fresh water (between aluminum and magnesium) I would follow @aero3113 advice and leave them be if 50% remains. 

skennelly

That rear anode and the small screws on the trim Rams I have a hard time with them on land

Liberty44140

Yea I always hated doing the ram anodes even on land so can’t imagine in the water. I would leave them on unless they were literally crumbling until fall haulout.