Vacuflush Toilet Mounting

redlightningredlightning Member Posts: 284 ✭✭✭
Our toilet has clearly been leaking some and along with the occasional use of the shower, moisture seems to easily get down into the holes where the toilet bolts down.  Now i have some degree of wood rot in these bolt hole locations.  I am  considering options for repairs.  Metal or plastic plate larger than the current bolt pattern by 3" or so that the toilet would bolt to that then that plate attach to the current surface.  The area is hollow below this raised area but not really accessible.  it appears to be fiberglass on the top surface, wood in the middle then fiberglass below also.      

When i rebuilt the toilet this spring.  I replaced the entire base.  I noticed this wood rot issue then and i was able to get it put back together knowing i would need to come up with a long term plan.  I was uncertain about how tight to draw down on the band and clamp connecting the bowl and base.  

Has anyone experienced this and do you have any advice?



2011Sea Ray 450 Twin 8.2’s Bravo III Sterndrive
2012 390 Sea Ray Twin 8.2’s Inboard - Sold
2008 330 Express Cruiser - Sold

Comments

  • redlightningredlightning Member Posts: 284 ✭✭✭
    Here is my plan to remount the toilet.  I am going to drill holes for either lag bolts or toggles.  Red flags anyone?
    2011Sea Ray 450 Twin 8.2’s Bravo III Sterndrive
    2012 390 Sea Ray Twin 8.2’s Inboard - Sold
    2008 330 Express Cruiser - Sold
  • TonyG13TonyG13 Member Posts: 1,326 ✭✭✭✭
    I like Hilti Toggler bolts. At least you'd be able to remove them later if needed, and they won't pull out. Try not to get the cheaper brands. IMO Hilti is best.
  • LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 7,747 mod
    Looks like a good solution.  With a plate that big, fasteners in the corners won't see much tension.  Maybe you could try #10 stainless screws first, and if they don't hold, replace with toggles.  

    If the screws at the base of the toilet pull out of that marine lumber, you might have to replace them with bolts/nuts.  
  • Michael TMichael T Member Posts: 7,227 ✭✭✭✭✭
    .....if the screws on the base of that toilet pull-out you are doing something on that toilet that it wasn't designed for......
  • redlightningredlightning Member Posts: 284 ✭✭✭
    those are nothing more than lag bolts into plywood between two layers of fiberglass.  there is nothing that keeps moisture from seeping into the holes if the toilet leaks or when the shower is used.  moisture rotted the wood.  its not what was being done on it.  I replaced the toilet base and two lag bolts held it in place two would not hold at all.
    2011Sea Ray 450 Twin 8.2’s Bravo III Sterndrive
    2012 390 Sea Ray Twin 8.2’s Inboard - Sold
    2008 330 Express Cruiser - Sold
  • redlightningredlightning Member Posts: 284 ✭✭✭
    LaRea said:
    Looks like a good solution.  With a plate that big, fasteners in the corners won't see much tension.  Maybe you could try #10 stainless screws first, and if they don't hold, replace with toggles.  

    If the screws at the base of the toilet pull out of that marine lumber, you might have to replace them with bolts/nuts.  
    I will post a pic of the final fix.  Its turned out pretty good.  I will say that if anyone runs into this, that there is some metal below and i could have screwed into metal and made the base plate smaller.
    2011Sea Ray 450 Twin 8.2’s Bravo III Sterndrive
    2012 390 Sea Ray Twin 8.2’s Inboard - Sold
    2008 330 Express Cruiser - Sold
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