Trunk hatch lift motor - anyone replace theirs lately ?

J3ff

Starting to hone in on the smaller projects that need to be done on this 270. I've got a hatch that will no longer come up by pushing the switch...have to hook up a jump pack to the posts near the battery switch to get it to come up. Weird thing is that when you do that it comes up nice and strong all the way to the top. Even when it did come up using the switch it took forever. 

Assuming it needs a new motor... anyone found a better replacement than stock ? Or if no, have a part number/model number? Mine seems to have been spray painted all black at some point and I don't see any numbers on it.. thanks for any help in advance! 

YYZRC

Did you try swapping helm switches with the windlass switch maybe?

J3ff

Hmm that's a good idea, wouldn't be able to do windlass, but another one might work

YYZRC

Nav lights switch would work to test! Just not momentary of course. 

Black_Diamond

Must be a switch or a relay problem since it works at the posts. 

J3ff

Black_Diamond said:

Must be a switch or a relay problem since it works at the posts. 

Well that would be nice. It's VERY strong and fast at the posts! Where might this relay be, that would make the most sense in my mind (even though I don't really know anything about it).

J3ff

Should also mention it goes down using the switch fine... about 80% of the speed using the posts going up. Meaning it does seem weaker going down using the switch, but still works "fine"

J3ff

Are you sure there is a relay in the mix? I don't hear any clicks when hitting the button..maybe it needs one. 

Black_Diamond

Remember powering from the posts you have much more power available than thru the switch. Depending on the year and actuator type, some use a relay. 

The Acculift models are high amp draw actuators. Better design are the ones with the motor parallel to the screw. They use spur gears for the motor reduction. The acculift is a single reduction via worm gear and far less efficient. 

Ian

It’s a changeover switch only soon relay. I just bought a new switch for the same reason - up okay, down is flakey

J3ff

Black_Diamond said:

Remember powering from the posts you have much more power available than thru the switch. Depending on the year and actuator type, some use a relay. 

The Acculift models are high amp draw actuators. Better design are the ones with the motor parallel to the screw. They use spur gears for the motor reduction. The acculift is a single reduction via worm gear and far less efficient. 

I def. have an acculift after looking at the pictures.. I guess throwing a relay in there could work, but at this point if there's a better design I'd like to go for it.. what's the name of these that have the motor parallel to the screw? Hard to tell which one is comparable to what is in there right now. 

Just a quick search pulled this up... https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edm-302-02w?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAjw34n5BRA9EiwA2u9k32_bqxiL3WI_qSQeYb2vRtdZryE1UqufxV2ezPu1sr1VwJaBYYzMzBoCIQYQAvD_BwE gotta stop bleeding money on this boat! ha ha

Will take a look tomorrow to see how much it extends... something like this might work.

https://www.ebay.com/i/372935886308?rt=nc&_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D225086%26meid%3Dd656e1bb6e8d43e1a29a1c44cf983020%26pid%3D100677%26rk%3D7%26rkt%3D30%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D372602947472%26itm%3D372935886308%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2386202%26algv%3DDefaultOrganic&var=641725526768

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Heavy-Duty-12-Linear-Actuator-Stroke-12V-DC-VOLT-Marine-Grade-Built-in-Clutch/122823157237?hash=item1c98d4a5f5:g:xZsAAOSwdjdaGFLa:sc:USPSPriority!07039!US!-1

J3ff

icoultha said:

It’s a changeover switch only soon relay. I just bought a new switch for the same reason - up okay, down is flakey

The weird thing is it used to work okay.. which makes me think it's just the motor flaking out. However as others have said, posts work just fine. Hate problems like these. 

Ian

Mine was good until this season, no go down during prep. Thought it was ram/motor, got buddy to help close manually then later it worked. But then not unless I tapped the switch a few times. Lifted switch panel over the weekend and got part number, ordered and new unit here to go in this weekend. $16 or so.

J3ff

icoultha said:

Mine was good until this season, no go down during prep. Thought it was ram/motor, got buddy to help close manually then later it worked. But then not unless I tapped the switch a few times. Lifted switch panel over the weekend and got part number, ordered and new unit here to go in this weekend. $16 or so.

What's your part number for it? Would you mind letting me know if that fixes it? Would be great if that was it! 

Black_Diamond

Virtually all hatch actuators you will find are the better designed ones. The ones with the clutch in them are better.  Just an FYI: those clutches are not meant to be tripped every use!!!

the really nice ones have travel limit switches. 

Ian

This is mine @J3ff, there are a number of variations and this 8 pin ON-OFF-ON is what is installed now and so I found the same on New Wire. Hope to put in tomorrow before guest arrive otherwise Sunday.

Item Name	Qty	Price	Total
VLD1-A60B	1	$13.50	$13.50

Ian

@J3ff -swapped and works like a charm. Goes up and down like a ....  well, you know 😁

aero3113

LoL 👍👍

J3ff

Alrighty then, going to order one now, hopefully it works, thank you for your insight to check one easy thing off before doing a hard thing. 

J3ff

icoultha said:

@J3ff -swapped and works like a charm. Goes up and down like a ....  well, you know 😁

Well - problem not fixed here, swapped switch and still will not go up without hooking up a jump pack to the posts near the battery switch. Sigh. 

J3ff

Circling back, the hatch just opened on it's own for the first time in a long time. SUPER SLOW, but that is how it's been since day 1.. interesting.