Installing Fishfinder/GPS

scotto

Hi everybody!,

New owner here... a 2004 232 BR.  I have been lurking for a while. Trying to use all the great info to not pester you guys. (But noticed little discussion of FF Installs.

Like many here, the depth/speedo don't work so solving with a fishfinder/gps (Which I wanted anyway )

2 questions.  

1)Where is best place to tap into for power.  (I'm not super electrically savy, though I did this years ago on my old boat, but don't remember anything more, than that I tapped into some existing wire at the helm.)  Any tips on which wire to tap into or what else I need to do)in line etc.)  would be awesome!  (in case it matters, the FF is the Lowrance 5 DSI)

2) I was of course planning on small hole "above the water line" through hull, right below extended swim patform to route cable through for transducer... mentioned this to my wife and she and my girls insist that they think that the water line is right there just below the swim step... and thinking about it, this is close to true. (Is this normal for this model?)  I had thought about the fact that it must be adding extra drag when we are running.

Oh, and I guess I should ask, any hints tips for this model on snaking the transducer cable up to helm?  I hadn't looked closely yet at wire paths, but man is everything tight for space and wire lengths under dash!) (Have a couple stereo issues and it's hard for my "chunky" 6"4 build to get under there and look at stuff.  

Thanks in advance for any help/advice you guys can offer!  I see that this is a great community already from lurking!

Scott

MarkB

Congratulations on the boat. It is best to run a wire directly from your battery to power your fish finder. This will avoid interference with other electronics which will otherwise mess up the sonar screen. Put a fuse on the positive right up close to the battery. 5 amp fuse is good. As for the transducer cable it is fairly standard to drill a hole under the swim platform above the water line. Hole should be at least double diameter of cable. Big enough to be able to seal around the cable tight with marine grade sealer. Make sure this is done right or you will wet rot your transom.

scotto

Mark, 

Thanks so much!

Do you think that imediately below the swim step is above water line for sure, or should I get it out on the water first to make sure?  I know its close.

And what type of wire would be best to run for power?

Oh and it did come with an interference filter, but you still feel it best to run power straight from battery?

Thanks so much,

Scott

MarkB

Scott not sure where your waterline will be. If it is easy enough to get into the water to check this then I would do it. Or maybe call a dealer, they may have an idea. It is low amps so you don't need a big cable but I don't like running anything less than 14 gauge. Yes still go directly to the battery. It is easy enough to do and will provide the cleanest source of power. Sonars are really sensitive to interference. Also keep your wire run away from your engine cables to avoid additional interference.

scotto

Mark, Thanks again for all the help.

I got it out on the water yesterday, and brought a swim mask so I could investigate.

My model, the 232, has a really odd stern, almost no flat spots It appears to be molded to better support the extended swim step. 

Above outdrive photo.      At tie down photo.  Click to left for the 2 pics, for some reason the photo embed didn't work. Sorry.

I'm thinking about running cable down through the molded area directly above the outdrive.  This is about 4" above the water line with 3 people sitting at the back of the boat (2 on swim step). But I don't know if this will be above water line when on plane.  Other option is through the small area next to stern tie down loop, but this will be tight for drilling, and have to go through thicker supported area. (possibly weakening it) Also, cable length would be tight, and cable would be more visible and a bit more subject to damage. 

What do you think?  Is it safe to drill through the area above the outdrive. (I believe this is a fiberglass only area) ?  I will seal with 5200, unless i'm told this isn't a good option.

Thanks again for all the help!

Scott

KYSEAN

People use through hull transducers all the time. That way you wouldn't be drilling any holes in that beautiful boat. Where ever you purchase your unit, tell them you would prefer to use a through hull transducer and they should have no problem setting you up.

MarkB

Scott I'm no expert in drilling holes through transoms. I just know how mine is done. It's hard to orient myself in that tie down photo. Anyhow, first thing is the transducer placement should be carefully considered to avoid turbulence and prop wash. Go online and you will find lots of advice on this. From there my cable goes straight up to the highest point possible on the transom and they drilled a hole straight through, inserted an eyelet and fed the cable through before sealing.

So I'm not sure if that changes whether you want to put the hole above the drive. Transducer placement is important, so start there.

However as Kysean said through hulls are actually a very good option. If installed properly they work better than transom mounts. This is because the entire hull of the boat can now pick up the sonar signal as the transducer becomes one with the hull. You do have to carefully install them and ensure no bubbles when the transducer is mounted down, but if done right they are great.

I'd think about that as an option.

MarkB

Scott I had a look at some pics of my transom mounted transducer.  See below. It's pretty close to the drive. I can track bottom pretty well, but I think if I placed it a little more to the right, I would actually be able to pick up fish schools at higher speed. Anyhow, take a look at youtube to get some good ideas about where to install the transducer IF you stick with transom mount.

My guess is that hole is around 3 - 4" above the water line.

 

scotto

The particular fishfinder, doesn't recommend using it through hull, as it is a "down scan imaging" model, but I'll investigate that a bit further too.  The transducer itself, I should be able to place about 12 to 14" from the outdrive, which is what they reccomend, but If I run cable through, above the outdrive, cable will pass by slightly closer, hopefully that's not an issue. (for clarity, not horizontally above the outdrive, but down vertically, above and to the left of outdrive, then running cable left in the molded area, and attaching (to a mounting board, I will be attaching with adhesive, to avoid extra holes in the boat, and allowing slight movement, if necessary, for avoiding turbulence)

Hoping to finally get started on this tomorrow.  Thanks for all the input guys! I will look deeper into the through hull idea too.

MarkB

Scott, be careful. If the cable is secured running left using adhesive and that adhesive comes off, do you have a loose cable close to your drive? I'd speak to a marine supply store to see if they have a better way to secure the cable.

That's the reason why they want the cable to run straight up and tight. Also the eyelet locks the cable down so it can't pull through from the engine compartment and go into the drive plus open up the hole in the transom.

scotto

Mark, Definitely another good thing to think about.  Man they made this install tougher with the boat shape!. I wasn't going to, but I think I will go get an eyelet/clamshell and use that also, even though it will be mounted horizontally rather than vertically.

(Oh, and not that it matters, but I meant right not left.)  Thanks!

scotto

With all the great input, I came down from above, used a clamshell, and decided to forgo the mounting board in liu of a more traditional install. (To avoid chance of it coming loose.) & Used 3 cable clips. I aso used A Ram mount as dash was tight.  Hoping it will work well when I get it on the water, first part of next week. In case anyone cares, I'll try to take a couple pix and post tomorrow for reference for anyone else.

Thanks again, so much Mark and everyone!

Scott

MarkB

Yes please take pics. That is the best part of a post! Assume will take a pic of the transducer before it goes in the water.

By the way make sure your transducer is level with the waterline, not how the boat sits right now. If it isn't level with the waterline you will get half scans of fish arches on your sonar screen.

I also have a ram mount for my fishfinder at my helm. They are great.