Fiberglass floor 1992 Fiesta Vee 260

GlennVee260

The floor In my 1992 Fiesta Vee 260
where the table was installed was soft.  I cut out the table attachment and can see the board under the fiberglass is rotted.   The fiberglass on top is very strong.  It appears the wood was placed down and then Glass put Down on top and glassed to the hull on sides.   It supports weight well but the wood underneath is rotted from bilge water.   Should I cut out the glass and put all new in or get out as much of the rot as I can and lay new floor on top of the old glass?   It seems like I will weaken the boat but cutting out the fiberglass floor.   Looking for advice.   Pictures show problem.   I am going to install dry bilge to dry out the area but worried about mold if I leave rotten floor in,   I am wanted to keep the boat for next 8 years but want to use it and not worried about complete restoration just safe.  Should I be worried about rotten stringers?   

Handymans342

Can you post some pictures?

GlennVee260

Here are some pics

GlennVee260

Picture of hole and fiberglass floor 

Handymans342

No pics

GlennVee260

Ok could not show on Phone had to use PC.  In the picture the hole cut was to remove cracked fiberglass where the table was.   I cut the hole to get some access to the bilge below.  Wood is all rotted under the fiberglass.   The black is glue from the carpet which was glued to the floor.   The fiberglass is solid and you can walk on it.  It does flex but that is because the wood under it is gone.  I want to take as much of the rotten wood out as possible and then clean out the bilge area.  Then put new floor on top of the fiberglass and glass that all in.   The sides of the boat are solid and it seems like if I take out the floor and try to replace I am weakening the boat.

GlennVee260

view looking the other way.  It looks like that they glassed the boat then placed plywood down for the floor and glassed the floor to the sides of the boat.  So the floor is on a small ledge which I assume is a stringer.   So the rot occurred when water got in bilge and wet the back of the floor.   Option one is cut all the glass out of the floor and redo.   The other is can maybe 2 more holes to help removing the rot then prep top of glass and put plywood down and glass that to boat.    I don't think I need to be worried about stringer rot as I think that was solid glass when they put the floor down.   If anyone has had same problem let me know.   I guess it would be interesting if anyone knows where the construction plans are for the 1992 Rinker 260.  I was not able to find anything so that I can tell if there is any concern about stringer rot, I don't think so based on looking at it but would like to know.

PickleRick

The floor in my fv235 was built the same.  Carefully cut along the edges where the fiberglass joins the arrow head shaped floor to the hull. I used a multi tool with a half moon shaped saw cutting blade for this. 

Once cut she should pull right up.

Try to pull up in once piece.  No need for marine ply here...or anywhere imho

Get some 3/4 cdx plywood(clossed to it)  from your local builders supply.  Use your cut out piece as a stencil.  

I prefer the use to epoxy resin, us epoxies house brand is just as good as west marine for most repairs, it's the sanding and prep that makes it.  Get a few cups of thickener powder and fiberglass mat from them as well, get some very flexible stuff as you're just going to use it to tab the floor down.

Remove the old wood from the fiberglass panel you removed, you want to glue this back on top of your new wood but all the old wood must be removed.

You will need to clean up the floor mounting surfaces and edges of the top she'll, fill any gaps with the thickened epoxy(thickened epoxy is also your glue)  

If you search my posts, there is a lot of them, I did this in my 92 fv235 last winter along with transom and new fuel tank.  I documented how i mixed the fiberglass(winter temp)  how I weighted it down, pics, etc.  Its important to coat the wood on both sides with resin before install to make her water tights.  The idea is you want the repair to outlast the boat.  

The floor part you are removing should have nothing but open space under it, it's for providing cabin floor walking area and adds little to no structural integrity.

Option 2

Since this is not a spot of structural integrity I've seen people lay down a painted piece of plywood cut to fit over the old floor, then lay carpet on top.  You'd never notice until you pull the carpet.  Not the correct way to do it but its cheap, quick and makes the floor solid.  

I didn't do this because i already had several gallons of resin, thickener, wood and fiberglass on hand, what's another 4 or 5 hrs of work when youre already in it a good 40hrs

GlennVee260

Thanks I will go ahead and cut out a d save the piece as backing for new floor. That way I can clean the bilge and make sure all is good to stay dry and prevent mold.  Thanks for the help!

PickleRick

No problem!   Lay down plastic everywhere before cutting, the fiberglass dust will get everywhere no matter how careful you are.  

Make sure you have a good mask and eye protection before cutting.

So long as you work with the hatch and door open you won't need any mask while laying the epoxy resin.  


I'm not sure how familiar you are with fiberglass work so no idea if all this is info you need or not. 

I started doing fiberglass work when i bought a 250 dollar sailboat with holes in the hull back @2010.  I learned with a LOT of trial and error.  Emphasis on the error.  I still can't make it pretty.

GlennVee260

Thanks, I understand the process on Glass work and understand all the problems.    It's not something I want to do but when forced to do it I will make it happen...  I am thinking I may cut more access into the floor and remove the wood from the back of the glass floor then put resin on my new floor board then epoxy the floor to the existing floor.   This will save me some finishing work and get the bilge clean and free of rot.  Will post how it goes.....