Is this too much play in the outdrive?

2_foot_i_tis

Hello all,
Partially got to look at a 342 that is forsale today. The seller brought a battery to open the engine hatch. (Typical batteries were removed for winterization, and not put back in yet.)
The hatched opened about 5 inches but then just stopped. It didnt stop slowly, like i imagine would happen if the battery ran out of juice, but was kinda sudden.
We tried a few different battery jump boxes (they were smaller cheaper ones that the seller managed to borrow) but nothing would get the hatch to move any.
Looked at fuses, and switches, but could not find anything that would cause it to stop.
I'm kinda guessing the jumper boxes were too small/didnt have enough power, and the full size battery that he brought didnt have a full charge.. I dont know... any thoughts?
Also, the seller plugged the boat in to shore power, but could not get any power to anything. It showed voltage coming in, but nothing would work (lights etc)... do the batteries have to be in ? ( to complete a circuit or something?) 
With the boat plugged in, should that be able to power the engine hatch?- or is the hatch completely isolated?

The outdrives are little bit of concern to me. I've seen worse, but not ideal.
Since I couldn't get to the engines, I couldn't check for leaks back there/steering pin condition.
There is some play in both outdrives.
Prob about 1/4 to 1/2 inch.
What is acceptable/ok play in the bravo 3s.
What is something that would require immediate replacement?
Thanks for your opinions

2_foot_i_tis

How can I post a video?

LaRea

With the battery charger is running and all battery switches on, all systems should work including the hatch lift.  Even a weak battery will lift the hatch (slowly).  So I don't know why it would stop. 

Is this boat kept in fresh water, or salt?

The outdrive corrosion suggests a stray current problem, and/or an owner who doesn't understand maintenance and won't pay for professional maintenance.  With that much corrosion near the props, it won't be long before the seals fail and water gets in.  Then they'll make that sound like somebody poured a bucket of wrenches into a concrete mixer.

If there's neglect in one part of the boat, there might be neglect elsewhere. 

A quarter-inch of play is fine, 1/2" is borderline.  If the steering pins are leaking, you'll be in a strong position to negotiate price because it'll cost $20k to replace the transoms and lower units.  

Aqua_Aura

.

2_foot_i_tis

The seller was complaining about stray currents at the marina.
The boat is in brackish water, (close to your neck of the woods (based on your sign), in stafford, va.
Yeah, I have read about the expense of the transom assembly replacements, which is why I was really wanting to see them.
Btw, nice work on your engine room.
He has spent some $ in the last year or 2, on risers, manifolds, canvas enclosure, seat uphostery.
From what I could see in the engine room. It looked decently clean.
But the outdrives corrosion and play did make me pause to do some research.
I dont know how much it plays a role, but he painted the anti foul paint right up to the gimbal ring, and I always thought there needed to be a gap.

2_foot_i_tis

Aqua_Aura said:

Use the link in red to attach a video. 

Do you know what format is supported?
Or max file size?
I keep getting those 2 errors.

Aqua_Aura

I actually just tried to upload an mp4 and it said it wasn't supported. I think if I remember most people were uploading to youtube then sharing the link to that video. 

2_foot_i_tis

https://youtu.be/kkD9CFlZqn8

Aqua_Aura

Looks like the port side has new bolts so they must have done some maintenance. If the drives were let go this bad I can't imagine what the rest of the boat maintenance is like and if the steering pin was leaking then it's gonna be had in the transom assembly, the outdrives are missing metal so that is not a good start. I would only buy this boat if the seller was deeply discounting it but that's only based off the little info I have seen. 

Can you share the listing? 

2_foot_i_tis

It is not listed.. yet.
It was listed on boattrader briefly before winter, and I made contact with the seller back then, but he ended up winterizing it before I got a chance to see it.
I reached out to him about a week ago and met up with him to look at it today

2005 Rinker 342
For $45k
5.7l mercs w/ about 960 hours.
New risers and manifolds within the last 2 years
New canvas/enclosure withing the last 2 years
New upholstery within the last 2 years.
They bought it in 2009 with about 90 hours on it.
He said one of the transoms assemblies was replaced in 2014 (I think) said it cost about 8k
The 1 gimbal ring looks to have the side screws in it, as cheat method.
He is supposed to email me records of what he's done.

They bought a travel travel and want to travel across country for a few years, and dont want to have theboat just sitting.


Here are some more pics of the boat in general, from when he listed it.

LaRea

I wouldn't worry about the amount of play in that video, but you know where to look for leaking steering pins.

The interior and cockpit look nice!  The cabin carpet does not seem to have water stains from chronic leaks.  

And it's not the 342 formerly known as La Rea.  (My boat was a 2003.)

Liberty44140

Are you sure it is an 05? The HIN should be on the side and will end with the year, believe Stbd, almost to the transom. If it’s an 05 it’s an early 05 as most 05 I’ve seen have the trunk transom, not the bumper storage. I made an offer on an 04 342 and was in final negotiations before the seller suddenly remembered it was an 02. Immediately walked, what else was he forgetting? 

Dream_Inn

Well, weather it's an 04 or 05, at least it's not an 03.  How can you tell?  well, you have more space in front of the engines, a lot more.  That makes a huge difference when working on it (I'm sure LaRea knows).  

I think you are on the right track and I'd be concerned about the drives.  I agree the movement is fine, but the corrosion is pretty bad.  I'd also wonder about the transom assemblies.  (I'm also not fond of the cheat method, but that's me) That is where the big money will be spent if you have problems.  Make sure to check small things like how hard is it to shift (are shift cables needing replaced).

Liberty44140

Totally agree. That 02 had zero space for me in front of the engines. I figured that was because it had 6.2's and then thanks to this site learned 6.2 and 350 are pretty much the same size and its the boat year that is different.

To have the drives all re done/re built will be around $4500 each at all american drive. That doesnt include the transom assemblies hat LR mentioned. 

Grahamu

I would also check the transom moisture levels inside and out, it will become expensive if it needs repair . If you can check the drive oil for water contamination and metal filings. 

davidbrooks

I had All American rebuild one of my drives and i will have him do the second one as well.  It looked to me that most of the corrosion on the outside is just the lowers.  The issue is inside.  At 960 hrs if you haven't had a rebuild of both drives it is due.  In addition to the other comments i see what looks like a leak on the starboard unit.  I also see that he overfilled the reservoir on that engine.  To me that is a sign of a person that is used to dealing with the leak and just keeps adding gear lube.  i have an 03 342 and what i see is a person that kept it clean but didn't really do any modifications or improvements in 15 yrs.  To me if you took off $10k and had a survey done, engine pressure tested and that all checked out it would be worth it. 

2_foot_i_tis

I don't know why I didnt think to check the hin. Typically something I always do. I will definitely double check that.
But yeah it does have the larger engine bay, something I was specifically wanting.(so it is at least 04)
I never thought about having the outdrives prof repaired. I'll have to research to see if there is anyone in virginia that does it. (I would think shipping it to all american is a pita? And time consuming)

Do you think it would be easy to have the dime size hole plugged/welded up? By a mobile welder?
Quick patch for the season... do you think it is needed? (Affect performance/driveability or cause damage if left unaddressed for a season?)

Is there any shelf product that anyone has used for a sim repair? Bondo?

I know if I buy the boat, there are additional costs and maintainence that NEEDs to be done before going in the water.
So I'm trying to gauge what I can possibly get away with for another season, and do the repairs over next winter.
I'm not trying to cheap out, but just dont need my wife complaining... about not being able to use the boat, because of all the time it  will take to fix things.
Or because we spent money buying then having to spend alot more (15-20k) to replace everything.
If I can at least get a good season out, and not take the purchase and repair hit all at once, then it's not as noticeable (and during the off season when it is not being used.)

2_foot_i_tis

Other than having a survey, is there a way to check for moisture in the transoms?

Grahamu

You will need a moisture meter to check it with along with a small mallet for sounding it. The sounds will change if their is a lot of moisture present. It should sound like a snare drum. My transom checked out OK with soundings but moisture levels were very high around the inner transom plates and have taken 4 months to dry to an acceptable level. See my Thread " Removing engines, drives and transom assemblies "

LaRea

For outdrive rebuilds, All American is the best in the country.  It's all they do, and they offer a good warranty.  I think his busiest times of year are March/April and July/August.  He probably has a huge backlog right now, especially with COVID shortages.  You'd be better off launching it and waiting until the off-season.  

My 2003 had the modified hull.  I think it was one of the first.  

Check the swim platform for excessive flexing due to moisture intrusion.  

davidbrooks

Sending the outdrives to All American is easy.  He sends you the forms adn arranges for the shipping.  you just remove it and strap it to a pallet. I would rather send mine to him than have a local guy do the work.  He will also repair casings if it possible otherwise he has other units that could potentially be used.  The other thing you get is the best warranty on his work around.