Interesting Bilge Pump Questions

Jarodjay

I dewinterized our 2000 270FV. I was flushing water through the system by running both sinks. The water pump turns on using the Bilge switch. The Galley Pump switch does nothing. I ran water for a while and smelled burning plastic. In the mid compartment where the seacock and AC pump are, the little read and black bilge pump (I assume that is what it is) was hot and melting. My thoughts, I have two things wired to the Bilge pump switch and nothing wired to the Galley Pump switch (although there are leads/wires on the back of the switch??) However, my understanding with Bilge pumps is that they only run when there is water to pump. Similar to a float on a home sump pump.
Can someone please educate me? How should I fix? Lastly, what is the plastic container with wires coming out of it? Thanks to all, I am new to this!  

TonyG13

I'll answer your last question first: The little plastic box with wires is your shower sump/bilge pump. It should be able to be traced back to a floor drain in your head area.

When you say the "galley switch" does nothing how are you turning on your fresh water pump to run your sink faucet - or are you saying when you turn on the bilge switch that the faucet (fresh water) pump turns on? If so, someone screwed up your wiring.

If you're smelling a burning smell, that's not good. I'd swap out your pump and float with a new bilge pump. They don't cost that much and yours look like they're not fastened down anymore anyway - also not good.

Aqua_Aura

That plastic container is your shower sump and your galley pump switch should be separate from your bilge switch. Sounds like someone wired something wrong. When you turn on your bilge pump switch it should by pass the float switch and turning the bilge on so that's probably why it got hot and melted as it isn't supposed to run dry for long periods of time. 

That galley pump switch is obviously different so whoever wired it may have crossed something. 

oscar1

My 2 cents,  I am in the process of replacing my 1000 rule auto bilge pump to a 1500 gallons NON AUTOMATIC rule gold with a ultra junior float switch. it is in the high side of the price but it is one of the best pump switch for any bilge pump.

LaRea

The float switch is the little white box between the bilge pump and the shower sump.  If it got stuck or the bilge pump switch was left on, and the pump was running dry for a few weeks, it would eventually damage the pump.  

The bilge pump and float switch are safety equipment.  Replace them both.  

It's odd that the galley pump switch looks different from the other switches.  Maybe it was replaced, and they mis-wired it.

LaRea

Also check the bilge pump in the engine room.  If the damage was caused by leaving the switch turned on, both pumps would have been running, so both are suspect.  

Jarodjay

Thank you for all of the comments! I am convinced the galley pump switch was changed-out and it was missed wired. Question, when I changed the Bilge pump, do I just cut the wires at the old pump and splice in the new pump?

LaRea

Yes.  Unplug the connector and remove the pump and float switch.  Cut off the connector and use it for the new units.  

Use crimp-on butt connectors, and not cheap ones.  Get connectors with heat-shrink insulation to keep water out of the connection.  

Jarodjay

Thank you LaRea. Today I ordered the pump and float switch. I will get the butt connectors prior to heading back to the boat. 

LaRea

You can cure the heat-shrink with a heat gun, or a butane lighter.  

I bought this crimper about 10 years ago, and it has paid for itself many times over.
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-marine--multi-die-ratcheting-crimper-kit--8956906 

Jarodjay

Are you telling me this is the first of many splices! I am thinking it is. Thank you for the link.

LaRea

BTW welcome to the forum!  Also when you mention another forum member, if you put "@" in front of the name like @LaRea, the system will automatically notify them.

Jarodjay

Thank you again.