Buying a 2008 280 EC - Advice

mvgvb

Hi,

We are looking at a 2008 280 EC, with a single Penta 8.1Gi with ~520 hours. Boat has been used in fresh water, but we'll be moving into salt water.

Just had the survey completed, some moisture in the transom and blistering on the hull (thinking mostly cosmetic), are these common issues? A couple other more minor fixes needed to the windlass, new spark plugs, etc. Engine appears to be in good condition, along with the interior being well maintained and in good shape.

Firs time boat buyers, would appreciate any advice, common issues, or things to be aware of.

YYZRC

Some moisture is normal for a 13 year old boat. 

Is the motor fresh water cooled? That would be ideal for salt water but not a deal breaker. Which outdrive does it have?

Aqua_Aura

Sounds like the same as my boat but mines 2007 we have 8.1Gi-H and it is a closed loop cooling system so hopefully yours is as well. 

Check compression and be sure to operate all systems to their fullest on the sea trial. 

There is 2 of us on here who are very active on the forum if you have any questions. 

LaRea

If it has the XDP composite outdrive, do some research on the many problems and recalls with that outdrive.  

Cableguy Greg

I have a 280EC of the same year. I have a Merc, but I agree that if the drive is an XDP, do some research first. 

Aqua_Aura

Oops I meant there is 2 of us with that boat who are active on here. Not just 2 people 😬

randy56

Blistering is unusal for a Rinker of 2008 model.

mvgvb

Thanks guys, appreciate the feedback!

• The outdrive is a duo prop, not the XDP Composite. 
• Motor is not currently fresh water cooled since it's coming from a lake. 
• Engine compression passed well.
• Hit ~41mph during sea trial on a calm lake day, with 6 adult men on board and 1/2 tank of gas.

How big of a deal are the hull blistering and moisture/softness in the transom? Surveyor seemed to think both could be fine for a few years, but that the blistering would affect resale value and the transom would likely need to be redone eventually. But they didn't open the transom up to confirm.

Thanks!

LaRea

How many blisters, how big, and where?  As @randy56 said, blistering is something we've rarely seen on this forum.  

Handymans342

has to be an issue with the transom mount drive

Grahamu

I am not sure if you are confused re fresh water cooled. If your engine has closed cooling it will have anti freeze reservoir and a heat exchanger cooled by sea or lake water  (Fresh water cooled) or the engine is cooled by whatever water it is floating in.
How long has the boat been in the water? Normally small blisters go away over the winter if the boat is laid up on land and re-appear after a couple of months in water and as long as they are small it would be OK. If they are large the bottom will need to be stripped and sealed.
The surveyor found high moisture readings in the transom but the soundings were good meaning the core is solid much like my boat. At some point you are going to have to find the source of the water intrusion and deal with it. If it is left too long the cost to repair will get larger. I am not trying to put you off buying but I would certainly be negotiating the price down to cover future expenses. I have a post on this subject.

YYZRC

LaRea said:

How many blisters, how big, and where?  As @randy56 said, blistering is something we've rarely seen on this forum.  

I think the main reason that there isn’t much talk about blisters is because most boats discussed here are bottom painted cruisers. 

YYZRC

Grahamu said:

I am not sure if you are confused re fresh water cooled. If your engine has closed cooling it will have anti freeze reservoir and a heat exchanger cooled by sea or lake water. Fresh water cooled means the engine is cooled by whatever water it is floating in.

“Fresh water cooled” is closed cooling (antifreeze). Not the most coherent naming protocol but alas. 

mvgvb

Yes, sorry meant it does not have closed cooling currently. Even though technically fresh water cooling today since it's pulling from lake. Was mentioned to us as something we should consider doing when we move to salt, but not a necessity.

The blisters were small, maybe 1/4" for the most part. Mostly located on hull bottom and transom. Surveyor recommended bottom painting over them as opposed to stripping.

mvgvb

Also any thoughts on cost to switch over to closed cooling?

Aqua_Aura

Someone else asked about switching and if I recall it was actually a big expensive project. I think just the parts are about $2,000 but it can be done. 

YYZRC

I wouldn’t bother switching to closed cooling given the age of the boat. 

Sounds like the blisters are very minor and I agree with the proposed approach. How many months per year will the boat be floating? That may also guide your decision on bottom paint. 

Grahamu

@YYZRC re fresh water cooling, not sure where my head was this morning, I have edited the post. 1/4" blisters are not a problem and agree. Let them dry out over the winter, sand and paint.

mvgvb

It will be a bit of a short season this year while we wait for transport, but normal year should be about 5 months in a slip, 7 months in storage.

Might be an older boat, but we are hoping to get at least ~5 good years out of it if possible (and ideally still have some remaining value). Does that change the equation on the cooling?

Aqua_Aura

There are many boats on here with raw water cooling in saltwater and they do just fine. Flush the system out when the boat is pulled from the water and stored. Your engine like mine should have a hose connection in the engine bay so you technically could run freshwater through the engine if it's gonna sit unused in the water for a long period. I think it isn't an issue though if the saltwater in the engine isn't exposed to oxygen. 

Old boat or new boat just do whatever you feel like doing and if it's worth it to you then go for it. All about you having a good experience rather than will the investment pay off, it's a boat not an investment for future retirement 🤑

Cableguy Greg

You should be able to get five or more years out of that boat. I am hoping to get five or more years out of my 2008 280. 

Aqua_Aura

There are many Rinker 270 5 years or more older than your 280 and they are still in great condition and have value so don't think it's gonna be worthless in 5 years.  

mvgvb

Great, appreciate the responses! 

LaRea

BTW anything that has an effect on resale value in 5 years also affects resale now.  In other words, these are points of price negotiation.  

YYZRC

mvgvb said:

It will be a bit of a short season this year while we wait for transport, but normal year should be about 5 months in a slip, 7 months in storage.

Might be an older boat, but we are hoping to get at least ~5 good years out of it if possible (and ideally still have some remaining value). Does that change the equation on the cooling?

Same cycle as here. I would do the ablative bottom coating and skip adding closed cooling. Flush it regularly and make sure you have the correct anodes and enjoy! 

I had a 17 year old boat with 400 hours on it that spent the first 13 years in salt water and did not have closed cooling. No issues except the circulation pump rusted out, replacement was about $75. 

My view is that a saltwater boat is always less desirable than a freshwater boat, closed cooling or not. But I have that view because I love getting good deals on saltwater boats

Michael T

@mvgvb I'm a little late to this conversation but I am not pleased to hear about osmosis blistering. I have owned 7 Rinkers and friends have owned dozens more. They have all had little peculiarities that only made me fond of them but one thing was constant - their hulls are built like tanks - strong and durable. Osmosis blistering on a Rinker hull is VERY rare and cause for concern. In my opinion - if you have not purchased it yet I would look at the owner paying to have it bottom coated or at least 50-50 the cost. to do that properly the blisters have to be opened, allowed to dry THOROUGHLY, as in using a moisture meter to ensure proper drying, filled and faired. The hull can then be sanded (progressive weights) then and only then should a barrier coat and then bottom coat be applied.