Low block pressure but no codes
frenchship
Member Posts: 1,079 ✭✭✭
Hi,
Friend has Rinker 290 Fiesta Vee 2004 twin 5.0 MPI with Alpha stern drives . last weekend at Alexandria bay his alarm went on. So we put the Rinda code reader on but no codes register. We read some parameters the only thing that came out not normal was the block pressure at 1.8 on one engine the other read 7.4 both engines at idle. He just had the water pump replaced on this engine. From what I understand these alpha drives do not have a sea water pumps like the bravo 111. So any ideas on this. Funny that the rinda show no codes.
Thanks
Paul
Comments
PC BYC, Holland, MI
Frenchship, check this link out: http://rinkerboats.vanillaforums.com/discussion/1042
I threatened to do it, but haven't yet- I aim to laminate that code chart and keep it on board...I'm thinking it could get to be pretty handy..
I've not encountered it, but I've been told this about lower unit impellers, and it makes sense: "they can't produce volume/flow at lower RPM's when they are going bad, but can at higher RPM's because of the added twirl".. so you would likely see a warmer engine at or off idle before you would see heat at higher RPM's if that holds true..
the engine shutting down and easily restarting sounds to me like an electrical issue- a bad connection somewhere- maybe at the PCM, maybe a ground, maybe a hot lead to the battery or battery switch.. I'd start there on that issue, and only move the second family of possibilities once I knew beyond doubt those were eliminated.
2.) IAC,
3.) MAP,
4.) MAT,
5.) knock sensors.
6.) open/short in the engine cooling temp circuit
7.) open/short in fuel injector wiring circuit,
8.) open/short in oil PSI circuit,
9.) open/short in exhaust manifold cooling temp circuit,
10.) open/short in sea pump circuit,
11.) open/short in throttle position circuit - See more at: http://rinkerboats.vanillaforums.com/discussion/1042#sthash.Fc5r8PvT.dpuf
2.) IAC,
3.) MAP,
4.) MAT,
5.) knock sensors.
6.) open/short in the engine cooling temp circuit
7.) open/short in fuel injector wiring circuit,
8.) open/short in oil PSI circuit,
9.) open/short in exhaust manifold cooling temp circuit,
10.) open/short in sea pump circuit,
11.) open/short in throttle position circuit - See more at: http://rinkerboats.vanillaforums.com/discussion/1042#sthash.Fc5r8PvT.dpuf
2.) IAC,
3.) MAP,
4.) MAT,
5.) knock sensors.
6.) open/short in the engine cooling temp circuit
7.) open/short in fuel injector wiring circuit,
8.) open/short in oil PSI circuit,
9.) open/short in exhaust manifold cooling temp circuit,
10.) open/short in sea pump circuit,
11.) open/short in throttle position circuit - See more at: http://rinkerboats.vanillaforums.com/discussion/1042#sthash.Fc5r8PvT.dpuf
2.) IAC,
3.) MAP,
4.) MAT,
5.) knock sensors.
6.) open/short in the engine cooling temp circuit
7.) open/short in fuel injector wiring circuit,
8.) open/short in oil PSI circuit,
9.) open/short in exhaust manifold cooling temp circuit,
10.) open/short in sea pump circuit,
11.) open/short in throttle position circuit - See more at: http://rinkerboats.vanillaforums.com/discussion/1042#sthash.Fc5r8PvT.dpuf
I'm guessing wildly here, but a two beep every sixty seconds could be an open/short in the sea pump circuit, and drop your power to 90% logic... it comes down to either a bad sensor ($80 and ten minute fix) or a failing sea pump- which costs a bit more, if that is the case..
for what it's worth- a bad sensor will cause the reduction in power as easily as a bad pump will- but can likely be determined by engine temperature... if the engine is cooling like the other engine (as in they read near the same), it would indicate a leaning toward the sensor as opposed to the pump..
Al, does this sound right?