280 EC - Couple Questions

mvgvb

Probably a couple stupid questions here.

1) Our V-Berth table, I unscrew, and push down, but it doesn't stay down it just pops back up. Is there some trick to getting them to remain in the down position? There doesn't appear to be a hole on the inside cylinder to keep it locked in place (you can see the hole on the outside cylinder at the bottom.

 
2) When the battery selection is on "1", and I'm plugged into shore power, should both batteries charge? I've been plugged into shore power for a few days, but I've noticed most of the dash and accessories won't run when I only have "1" selected, but power up when I move to "combine batteries". I've also needed to combine batteries to get the engine started a few times. Then when out on the water the dashboard electronics still don't work when I'm only on "1".



Ignore the generator switches, don't have one on the boat. Side question... what does the "Port Inlet" switch do? I assume that's for when connecting to shore power on the Port side, but it doesn't seem to have any impact on function when connected via stern?

Thanks!

Aqua_Aura

Table has to have that screw tightened back down to keep it down. 

Your battery selector maybe get the batteries tested by a shop to make sure they are good and can take a load and also make sure the connections are clean. I had this same kinda issue and it was a bad battery. 

The port inlet is for port shore power and the starboard is for the rear shore power connector. 

mvgvb

On the screw - there’s no hole for it on the inside cylinder to screw through. Close to just drilling a new one I guess.

For the batteries, should both batteries charge when just 1 is selected? What would be normal operation, always keeping on “1” and only combining when there’s difficulty starting?

rasbury

You might post pictures of how the wires are wired up- might be an issue there...sounds like a recent new to you boat?

YYZRC

The batteries should charge no matter what position the switch is in.

You should never need to combine the batteries during normal use, the combine feature is only for emergencies.  You likely have a bad battery; as @Aqua_Aura suggested, you should have the batteries load tested.

mvgvb

Thanks all, will do that. Just so I understand how they should operate normally, the batteries should charge both while connected to shore power and while the engine is underway, correct?

When connected to shore power, do any of the electronics still run off battery power or is everything off shore power at that point?

thanks!

YYZRC

If your isolator is good and your alternator(s) are good then your batteries will all charge whilst underway. 

12v systems will continue to run off the charger/batteries when on shore power, except possibly your fridge(s) which are often dual voltage and will automatically switch from DC to AC power when shore power is connected (and assuming the breaker is on). 

mvgvb

Do the batteries charge off shore power? 

Might just be too long at the docks running the DC accessories - I assumed shore power would either run them or charge the battery that in turn runs them.

Yes ras, new to us boat

YYZRC

The batteries will charge on shore power as long as your charger works, obviously.

Cableguy Greg

mvgvb said:

Do the batteries charge off shore power? 

Might just be too long at the docks running the DC accessories - I assumed shore power would either run them or charge the battery that in turn runs them.

Yes ras, new to us boat

The batteries charge off shore power. Make sure the battery charger switch in the cabin control panel is "On" and the the breakers for the charging system are not in the trip position. 

You do not need to run the boat in the "Combine" position. Leave the battery switch in the "On" position. Both battery banks are turned on and off from the switch independently in the switch. If you are anchored out somewhere and you have the switch in "Combine" you could be left with a dead starting and house battery with no way to start the boat. 

Cableguy Greg

When was the last time the batteries were replaced? There should be a date code on the battery. Check that and see of they are more than a few years old. 

Also check the charger. When connected to shore power, and the batteries are low, it should be pumping out some amps. 

When connected to shore power, make sure that your refrigerator switches in the cabin panel are "On". The fridges will can drain a battery. I have two fridges on my 280EC, so I added a second house battery to help with the draw. 

Cableguy Greg

mvgvb said:

On the screw - there’s no hole for it on the inside cylinder to screw through. Close to just drilling a new one I guess.

For the batteries, should both batteries charge when just 1 is selected? What would be normal operation, always keeping on “1” and only combining when there’s difficulty starting?

There should be a threaded plate in the post for the knob to screw in to. You do not need to remove the knob, just loosen it, push the table down, then retighten it. 

MarkB

1) Table needs to be pushed down (have someone sit on it), and then screw in that hand bolt tight to keep it down. It works under compression, basically squeezes the tube against the sleeve.

2) You have two batteries? One should be a crank for the engine, the other should be a deep cycle for the 12V accessories and electronics.  It's hard to say how yours is wired up, but I think "1" means that battery 1 is running the engine, while battery 2 runs everything else. If you go to "2" then 2 runs the engine, and both means both run the engine.  If you are having trouble with "1" working, you may have a not so efficient battery 1 (lead/acid crank battery) ... may need to be replaced. Bring it into a battery shop and they will test it for you.

3) that port switch is to turn on/off your port inlet plug in. I assume you have your shore power hooked up to the transom (back of boat). There will be an alternate plug in on the side of the boat, kind of just behind the microwave.  That port inlet switch is the MAIN isolation to that port plug ... it should be OFF, if you are not using that for shore power. When you plug into the port side, and turn that on, it energizes your AC MAIN switch. Never move that dial switch with port or starboard main isolation off. Always, shut off AC MAIN, and both starboard and port isolation switches. Move the shorepower selection switch, then turn on the port or starboard main switch (whichever shore power is plugged into, then turn on AC Main switch.  I even shut off all the individual breakers before I turn on AC main switch, to prevent a surge from burning something out. 

Squatch68

mvgvb said:

On the screw - there’s no hole for it on the inside cylinder to screw through. Close to just drilling a new one I guess.

For the batteries, should both batteries charge when just 1 is selected? What would be normal operation, always keeping on “1” and only combining when there’s difficulty starting?

There is a captive nut that slides within the slots in the post. If you let the table go up again you will see the nut again. Screw your handle in loosely. Then push your table down again and tighten the handle while holding it there. 

ureno22

I'm having a similar problem. the captive nut is not in the slot within the post. So when I put knob in and try to tighten it has nothing to grab to. Can the nut be purchased at Home Depot? Can I find the knob somewhere online? 

Squatch68

ureno22 said:

I'm having a similar problem. the captive nut is not in the slot within the post. So when I put knob in and try to tighten it has nothing to grab to. Can the nut be purchased at Home Depot? Can I find the knob somewhere online? 

It might be stuck in the track along the length of the table post. Slowly push the table down while having a look for the nut along the whole stroke of the table pole.  Would think it has to be there somewhere.