Solar Panel help

CnCCnC Member Posts: 142 ✭✭
Hey guys, a couple of questions for those you with solar panels to help prolong your batteries for extended off power trips. My wife and I just spent our first 2 nighter and with both fridges running the batteries lasted pretty much 2 days. We were being very conservative with lights and anything else that would cause a draw and I did turn the fridges down to reduce the cycling. It would be nice to keep both running a little longer if possible so I'm wondering what system everyone else is using? A few of our new boater friends are using a 3 panel  300W system with alligator clips that simply attached to their battery. This seems to keep them at full charge. They only have one house battery though where we have two? Can these panels be wired to charge more than one battery at a time or would they need an isolator block of some sort? Secondly, will we need more than the 300W system? Meaning more panels, say 4? Can you purchase higher wattage panels? And finally, because our engine hatch sounds like the actuators are trying to lift a concrete wall when I use them could a set of cables be rigged up on a block somehow within the cockpit that the panels could easily clip to and then removed so the panels could be folded back up and stored on one of the berths when not in use? If so, what would that set up and wiring look like? @YYZRC I'm hoping you'll chime in on this one!
As always thanks in advance
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Comments

  • YYZRCYYZRC Member Posts: 5,111 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I believe each fridge draws about 4 amps and mine seem to run about 25% of the day. 

    I am running 300w (3 panels). Yesterday was perfectly sunny no clouds and I pulled a max of 202w. Roughly speaking, I believe 300w worth of panels is sufficient for my needs as long as the skies are reasonably clear and in conjunction with a bit of generator time (for coffee and AC :))



    I ran the solar cable up the inside of the arch and have the panels wired to the controller which is then wired directly to the house batteries. You could wire the solar to the isolator but you would lose a bit of power due to inefficiency of the isolator and your starting batteries should be fine anyway. 

    I attached the solar panels to the camper top with magnets. The magnets are bolted to the panels through the grommet holes. The magnets are solid (I have been up to 60km/h) and no damage to the canvas. 


    2008 350 EC on Georgian Bay
  • YYZRCYYZRC Member Posts: 5,111 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Pics of the panels and controller. I removed the Sirius antenna and used the hole for the solar cables. 


    2008 350 EC on Georgian Bay
  • YYZRCYYZRC Member Posts: 5,111 ✭✭✭✭✭
    CnC said:
    And finally, because our engine hatch sounds like the actuators are trying to lift a concrete wall when I use them could a set of cables be rigged up on a block somehow within the cockpit that the panels could easily clip to and then removed so the panels could be folded back up and stored on one of the berths when not in use? If so, what would that set up and wiring look like? @YYZRC I'm hoping you'll chime in on this one!
    As always thanks in advance
    If you want to remove the panels each time, you could use the MC4 solar cable/connectors I posted above and locate them wherever you want. Mine are at the top of the arch as pictured so that I can remove the panels when storing for winter. 
    2008 350 EC on Georgian Bay
  • CnCCnC Member Posts: 142 ✭✭
    edited July 2021
    This is exactly what I was looking for, thanks @YYZRC ! I've been looking online and unfortunately unless I want to receive it at seasons end my options are getting limited based on availability. I'll even hop to 400W if I can but not much in that option for stock either. One other question, is that Antenna the big weird looking round disc thing or is that radar?
  • YYZRCYYZRC Member Posts: 5,111 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited July 2021
    I got the panels on Wish.com in one week. 

    https://www.wish.com/product/5f8e594aa2fa27043bfec09a
    Post edited by YYZRC on
    2008 350 EC on Georgian Bay
  • CnCCnC Member Posts: 142 ✭✭
    I'll check that out. Thanks @YYZRC
  • YYZRCYYZRC Member Posts: 5,111 ✭✭✭✭✭
    You can also check these guys out, I hear they are great to work with:
    https://marinesolar.com/
    2008 350 EC on Georgian Bay
  • CnCCnC Member Posts: 142 ✭✭
    I sent an Email to Marine-Solar and awaiting their response. Been doing a fair bit of reading over the last couple of days and these guys seem to have pretty decent efficient units. Thanks so much for the contact @YYZRC
  • kordokordo Member Posts: 242 ✭✭
    Renogy was pretty quick for me.
  • YYZRCYYZRC Member Posts: 5,111 ✭✭✭✭✭
    How did you make out @CnC ??
    2008 350 EC on Georgian Bay
  • CnCCnC Member Posts: 142 ✭✭
    On an island right now and way out of my comfort level. We planned on one night and staying for our third? Someone gave us water so we could have coffee in the morning. "Hopefully" when I get home the whole 330W kit from MarineSolar will be there at home waiting for me. Chris was super easy to deal with 
  • YYZRCYYZRC Member Posts: 5,111 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Awesome!!
    2008 350 EC on Georgian Bay
  • CnCCnC Member Posts: 142 ✭✭
    Wondering if anyone can provide some assistance? @YYZRC you've already been a mega-ton of help so I'm trying to give you a break here (but feel free to chime in too!). With regards to the 330W solar set up I installed I could only use 2 panels (making it a 220W because the leads on the third (front canvas) wouldn't reach across the spreader bar. The company I purchased from offers some great products but customer service stinks. Well, unless there is a financial incentive, which seems to be the only way you'll get a response after a payment is made? Anyhow, I went to a local solar place and the made up a patch cable in 5 minutes while I waited. Great group of people. My questions are, what do I need to do to simply connect the third panel so I don't damage anything in the system, mainly the charge controller? Pull the fuse? Secondly the Victron shunt I installed on the negative lead calls for "Ah" for my total house battery bank in their app I downloaded. By the picture I'm assuming I just add the two batteries (105Ah) together for 210Ah not the two 175 RES together correct?
  • YYZRCYYZRC Member Posts: 5,111 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Just connect the panel cable leads + to - and you are good. No need to pull a fuse or anything!
    2008 350 EC on Georgian Bay
  • CnCCnC Member Posts: 142 ✭✭
    Thanks @YYZRC as usual!!
  • oscar1oscar1 Member Posts: 757 ✭✭✭
    I would not install the solar mppt inside the engine bay, it is a very hot place and it needs to be explosion proof. my two cents.
  • CnCCnC Member Posts: 142 ✭✭
    @oscar1 But it says it has to be no more than 5' from batteries? The charger for all the batteries is in there from the factory so that was my reasoning, well as well as the 5' thing
  • oscar1oscar1 Member Posts: 757 ✭✭✭

    From victron manual:

    Warning

    • Danger of battery explosion from sparking

    • Danger of electric shock

    • Install the product in a heatproof environment. Ensure therefore that there are no chemicals, plastic parts, curtains or other textiles, etc. in the immediate vicinity of the equipment.

    • The product is not allowed to be mounted in a user accessible area.

    • Ensure that the equipment is used under the correct operating conditions. Never operate it in a wet environment.

    • Never use the product at sites where gas or dust explosions could occur.

    • Ensure that there is always sufficient free space around the product for ventilation.

    • Refer to the specifications provided by the manufacturer of the battery to ensure that the battery is suitable for use with this product. The battery manufacturer's safety instructions should always be observed.

    • Protect the solar modules from incident light during installation, e.g. cover them.

    • Never touch uninsulated cable ends.

    • Use only insulated tools.

    • This product is designed and tested in accordance with international standards. The equipment should be used for the designated application only.

    • Connections must always be made in the sequence described in the Installation chapter of this manual.

    • The installer of the product must provide a means for cable strain relief to prevent the transmission of stress to the connections.

    • In addition to this manual, the system operation or service manual must include a battery maintenance manual applicable to the type of batteries used.


  • CnCCnC Member Posts: 142 ✭✭
    edited August 2021
    Wow, thanks for that info. I guess I'll be looking for a new location for sure. I have to be honest though I have absolutely no idea where I can mount this thing along with the shunt on the starboard side that will meet all this criteria, especially keeping it within 5 feet of the batteries and not directly above them. Seems like the only possible spot might be in the compartment under the seat that is incorporated into the engine hatch. That would also mean cables moving every time the hatch is raised or lowered which can't be good. That and the fact that the entire system would need a complete disassembly prior to any repairs that involved a hatch removal. One of those cheap $400 Amazon flexible stowable systems with two alligator battery clips is looking pretty good at this point. Is anything marine related uncomplicated aside from opening the fridge and grabbing alcohol?  Any suggestions in this area would certainly be welcomed.
    Post edited by CnC on
  • CnCCnC Member Posts: 142 ✭✭
    edited August 2021
    Started a response but due to editing and fixing spelling errors it was somehow blocked. Thanks so much @oscar1 for this information. I obviously need to change this. Trouble is I'm not sure where I can do it to stay within all the installation parameters? Within 5' of battery and outside of the engine compartment? Going to be tough. As I mentioned in the other post perhaps below the rear bench seat but it's part of the engine hatch where the cables would move each time it's raised or lowered. Not sure how much movement the cables could take due to their rigidity and the entire system would need removal if any major repairs are needed in the engine bay that involve the hatch. Any advice my way would really help. Once again it's an '01 340 Fiesta Vee. Thanks in advance and thank God I found this out before using it!
  • raybo3raybo3 Administrator Posts: 5,502 admin
    @CnC it went to spam. All set now. 
    2002 342 Fiesta Vee PC Point Of Pines YC Revere MA. popyc.org     raybo3@live.com
  • CnCCnC Member Posts: 142 ✭✭
    A repeat request for the same info but I suppose that's not a bad thing!
  • Aqua_AuraAqua_Aura Member Posts: 2,620 ✭✭✭✭✭
    If you mount it in the seat area above the hatch you could run the cables thru flexible sleeve for wires and leave enough slack for the hatch to open. I have the 280 so I am referencing that not sure if yours is similar. On mine the bottom of that seat area into the hatch would only see a few inches of movement if I ran wires to the engine bay. 
    1997 Bayliner 3988
  • CnCCnC Member Posts: 142 ✭✭
    I'll look into that. Thanks @Aqua_Aura
  • Handymans342Handymans342 Member Posts: 10,375 ✭✭✭✭✭
    CnC said:
    I'll look into that. Thanks @Aqua_Aura
    Have you considered going to Lithium batteries?
  • CnCCnC Member Posts: 142 ✭✭
    I have yes, but as I stated a while back I'm extremely afraid of my wife. I work with murderers and rapists and if you could talk to her for me I'd really appreciate it.
  • oscar1oscar1 Member Posts: 757 ✭✭✭
    I mount mind in the other side of the firewall of my engine bay. it is maybe 7 feet long, so I used heavy gauge cable to calculate for any volt drop and it is working great so far. I will post some pics of my system  
  • oscar1oscar1 Member Posts: 757 ✭✭✭
    Here are some pics of my 330 watts solar system, plus some details. I have 3 sunpower solar panel 110 watts each in series going to 7.5 breaker which i use to disconnect the solar from the victron MPPT when i am not using the solar system or when I am running the engine of the boat, plus in case of over voltage it will trip the breaker before damages the charges.  then it go to the MPPT,  it continue to a 40 amp disconnected following a 35 amp fuses (to protect from any over current from the batteries back to the charger), following the shunt and finally my 2 rolls amg batteries 128 amp each. when i was planning my system i want to be able to disconnect everything from the inlet and outlet of the MMPT when i was not using the solar system. Plus my boat almost got in fire because one of my cameras was install without any fuse and it burn the cable, thanx to Rinker which built the radar arch  in aluminum it didn't burn down. since then i always install fuses in my system with the right gauge of cable.
  • YYZRCYYZRC Member Posts: 5,111 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Thanks @oscar1 for the point about ignition protection! I will move my controller over the winter. 
    2008 350 EC on Georgian Bay
  • CnCCnC Member Posts: 142 ✭✭
    I am so far out of my element here that it embarrasses me. That looks like a perfect system. Man, could I use your help!
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