280 Windshield Screws Stripped?

Squatch68

Hey folks. While resealing my hatch today I noticed that the first screw in both the port and SB side windshields were loose (first screw next to the walkthrough opening). Tried to tighten them up but they seem to be stripped.

Tightened up the next two screws which were also loose but they tightened up no problem. Anyone have some experience with stripped screws in the fibreglass at the windshield and how to fix? 

I would have assumed they would be through bolts with plates and nuts on the underside but I guess that would be really difficult to access.

Thanks in advance. 

aero3113

They should pull out, just screws. Try the next size larger screw and use sealant. I would remove and seal all of the screws.

Squatch68

aero3113 said:

They should pull out, just screws. Try the next size larger screw and use sealant. I would remove and seal all of the screws.

Thanks @aero3113 I was wondering if I would have to fill with an epoxy, drill a hole, apply sealant, and reinstall screw, but I will give going up a screw size a shot.

Haven't tried pulling the stripped screws out yet as it was getting late after resealing the hatch. 

Aqua_Aura

My port screw was stripped as well on the first screw from the hatch. I am guessing it is from over time people grabbing the windscreen to get up in the bow. aeros solution seems to work. 

Michael T

I mentioned earlier that I had this problem with many windshield screws on a new Rinker cruiser. My guess is that a trainee was doing the work. We removed all screws with power drills, removed the entire windshield (took 6 guys) cleaned the hull joint but most important of all when re-setting the screws - and yes the next size up with about 10 screws - we used the battery drills to re-install the screws on slow setting until about 1/8 inch was left then we used hand screw drivers to snug tighten only. Never leaked again. Not a big deal to me but did take a while for me to find the leak that went into the cabin.

Squatch68

Thanks all for the excellent feedback, that's exactly what I will do with mine! 

PickleRick

For a stripped hole in fiberglass or even a wood door jam, put a wood dowel in the hole (toothpick for small holes) then break it off flush with the hole.. Put in original screw, with sealer on marine applications  

Aqua_Aura

PickleRick said:

For a stripped hole in fiberglass or even a wood door jam, put a wood dowel in the hole (toothpick for small holes) then break it off flush with the hole.. Put in original screw, with sealer on marine applications  

Good idea. I am gonna give this a try for one of my nav light screws that is stripped. 

YYZRC

I have used the “twirlies” from drilling starboard as filler. They work great. 

Michael T

Agree with @PickleRick regarding a wood "plug" but add as a friendly amendment to use a soft wood like pine or my favourite cedar which will compress allowing the screw threads to bite without splitting the surrounding fiberglass. Cedar also resists rot and will absorb caulk. 

mattie

Michael T said:

Agree with @PickleRick regarding a wood "plug" but add as a friendly amendment to use a soft wood like pine or my favourite cedar which will compress allowing the screw threads to bite without splitting the surrounding fiberglass. Cedar also resists rot and will absorb caulk. 

Good idea on the soft wood plug.

I've used golf tees with great success in household stuff. Door latches, hinges, striker plates, etc. Wood glue - easy to pound a golf tee in with hammer - snip it off with sidecutters.

Although I would follow MichaelT's idea above around fibreglass & gelcoat. Makes sense. 

Squatch68

I never would have thought to use a wood dowel, good thinking there. I will probably put in some sealant with the dowel since the hole isn't perfect and there is some cracking around it in the fibreglass. Maybe 5200 for the dowel then 4200 when I put the screws in? 

Cableguy Greg

Squatch68 said:

I never would have thought to use a wood dowel, good thinking there. I will probably put in some sealant with the dowel since the hole isn't perfect and there is some cracking around it in the fibreglass. Maybe 5200 for the dowel then 4200 when I put the screws in? 

Use 3m4000 to put the screws into. 

Michael T

You don't even have to put a full plug in the holes. You can cut a sliver off a cedar shim and just trim the top off it flush (using a box cutter) with the top of the fiberglass when the screw is almost in contact with the gelcoat as you "hand screw" it in. If you use 3M 4000 or sikaflex it will never leak and still hold beautifully. The key is to not force the screw into a hole so tightly that it causes immediate or later stress/spider cracks in the gel coat. I wouldn't use 5200 as you would have a h3ll of a time getting a screw out if you ever had to.

Aqua_Aura

I would still recommend using the next size up screw for the windscreen. The originals seem a little small to me.