2002 Rinker 310 No 110v to heater, started diagnosis but now stumped

Rinker310_LI

On my 2002 Rinker 310 which is new to me, I am diagnosing the hot water heater and have done some basic tests but hit a wall just now.  I checked for 110v voltage at the heater and found nothing , confirmed breaker is on and shore power is working for all other circuits.  I then pulled the panel and the idea was to check for 110v coming out of the hot water heater breaker but was stumped when I realized that this is a much different set up than residential.  I checked the wiring diagram and confirmed that the hot water heater wire from the panel should be red and that is the same color as the wire coming out of the panel switch.  Just for kicks, I tested the breaker switch for continuity and it passed.  All of the electric out of the panel past the switches flows through these square connectors.   My question is how to try and figure out which feeds the water heater!  I have some photos which aren't the best but if anyone is kind enough to share knowledge they may help. 

Ian

Same as mine. Are you sure you have no power at the heater square connector? I found mine was faulty and needed to be played with to work - but now hard connected. Same with the incoming power from shore inlets - same blocks and the main one I have replaced with a 30A twist lock plug and socket.

Next step is to turn off all power and unplug each one at a time and at the heater block, jumper the white and black wires until you find which one behind the panel feeds the heater.

raybo3

Most likely its the connector bodies (plugs) right near the heater. Mine were so corroded I didn't get power to the heater. I just took the plug out and used butt connectors with heat shrink tubing. Never a problem since. Keep in mind there is also an over temp clicks on disk on the heater also. It has a tiny push to reset button in the middle but you would read voltage all the way to that button.

Rinker310_LI

raybo3 said:

Most likely its the connector bodies (plugs) right near the heater. Mine were so corroded I didn't get power to the heater. I just took the plug out and used butt connectors with heat shrink tubing. Never a problem since. Keep in mind there is also an over temp clicks on disk on the heater also. It has a tiny push to reset button in the middle but you would read voltage all the way to that button.

I am going to check that out .  The wiring at the heater looks like it has a lot of corrosion on a rectangle metal piece that is inline on the feed wire.  I'll be exploring more soon.

Rinker310_LI

Ian said:

Same as mine. Are you sure you have no power at the heater square connector? I found mine was faulty and needed to be played with to work - but now hard connected. Same with the incoming power from shore inlets - same blocks and the main one I have replaced with a 30A twist lock plug and socket.

Next step is to turn off all power and unplug each one at a time and at the heater block, jumper the white and black wires until you find which one behind the panel feeds the heater.

Definitely going the possible corrosion route at the heater now.  I was thinking about it last night and accepted that I would need to test each wire to trace it.  I will at least label it once I find it!  Thank you

Rinker310_LI

@Ian
@raybo3

Check out my connector at the water heater.  Corrosion like you both said and this looks like it may have overheated.  I actually found and confirmed power to the feed wire at the panel and that's all good, its live until it disappears somewhere behind the head and before the water heater.  Then i checked this wire before the corrosion and connector for live voltage - no power.  Also no continuity so I have a break somewhere whether its an inline fuse or a physical break.  I think I might be able to get to the wire through the access panel in head under the sink and see if there is something obvious.  Otherwise it's fishing a new wire from the panel.  The panel in my 310 is forward of the head and water heater is in the aft cabin which is after the head - not terrible but also not great.  
Thanks for the advice. 

I believe I am considering this a winter project for now.  

raybo3

@Rinker310_LI that's how mine looked. I cut the connectors out and just butt spliced them together. Make sure you use shrink tubing with it. 

Ian

Yeah, these are not a good connector. Mine were “clean” but had been arcing and like @raybo3 just butt joined them. If the line is bad and need a new one, access isn’t too bad, take out the head cupboard and you can feed from the board down behind the head wall to the pumps behind the cupboard then from there to heater. Mine is the same as yours - 2003 - and access is not too bad in that area.

Note - same connectors are used for the feeds from the shore power sockets to the distribution and may go the same way. As mentioned I have replaced the main with a locking 30A plug and socket.

@Rinker310_LI - stay safe down there the next or so.

Rinker310_LI

@Ian thanks so much. I was worried that once I took out the head cupboard it would be a dead end. Nice to know that’s not the case for when I feel like tackling it. Also great news that this could have been hurricane just dropped a bunch of rain. 

Pat310

This is the view behind the head cupboard on the 310. Took it when I was chasing mid bilge leak. The wetness is the mold armor I drenched the compartment with. 

Ian

While you are there @Rinker310_LI good opportunity to tighten these clamps - you’ll get 1/2 a turn on each I am sure. And a good chance to clean up back here.

Raining up here (Albany area), secured the boat, pulled the dinghy today and watching levels on club cameras. 

Rinker310_LI

@Pat310 and that picture solves the mystery of where my toilet fill pump is ! I need to change that as well and will do a two for one deal. Thanks