Which muffs do you prefer?

YYZRC

Open to other ideas as well, but I’m not changing teams. 

aero3113

@YYZRC , this is what I now use and is recommended by @Alswagg .



Quicksilver 44357Q2 Through Gear Case Flushing Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBOUIY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_VQS3XWHSEQ7DK252MJGQ

davidbrooks

Agree with @aero3113 I have had the clamp on ones slip off.  

Dream_Inn

I have been using the top one in the upper picture for 20 years!  It is the absolute best and works very well on all 3 bravo drives and alpha drives.  It puts water into both sides and if you put it on correctly, stays on very tight.  I make sure the hose comes down (jug on swim platform) and have the hose are at back of the "Y" push against the transom and then come down to the drive.  I can't tell you how many times I've helped friends/dockmates and then take mine over and it works perfectly! Oh, if you turn water thru first for flushing, turn the water on slowly (or to a trickle first) so it doesn't push itself off.

YYZRC

Thanks @Dream_Inn - I can also use them on my outboard so win-win. 

captkevin

Have both the ones pictured. Prefer top one.

echandler1971

J3ff

Which MUFFs do we prefer?? I think we all know which muffs we prefer and they dont go on a boat! 

Liberty44140

The real question is how much scruff for the preferred ****?

ive used the bottom one in your pic many times on B3 and it always worked great but that said I’ve borrowed the B3 **** like aero posted and it was definitely the best option. If you are buying one, buy that. The cheaper ones need to be held on tight by hand to get flow going, B3 one does not. 

Ian

J3ff said:

Which MUFFs do we prefer?? I think we all know which muffs we prefer and they dont go on a boat! 

I had to double check the site I was on when I saw that title…..

Cableguy Greg

I use the top one in the first picture and it works very well. I tried the bottom one in the top picture and for some reason, it starved my B3 for water. What I like about the Merc one is it won’t slip off like the others. I have never used that one. 

Ian

I’ve used (not mine, at the mechanics shop) the 3rd with the spike through the drive.

YYZRC

Any reason I shouldn’t remove the thermostat and winterize without running the boat up to temp?

aero3113

YYZRC said:

Any reason I shouldn’t remove the thermostat and winterize without running the boat up to temp?

Will be fine to do it that way. Are you going to put in new thermostats in the spring? Why not leave them in?

YYZRC

They seem to be working fine so I probably won't replace.  Will replace gaskets though of course.  I don't want to go buy 200' of garden hose to enable me to run the boat up to temp so this seems like an easy way to ensure the whole block gets antifreeze.

YYZRC

How do you winterize the genny @aero3113 ?  It is closed cooling so can I just disconnect the hose at the thru hull and pour in the antifreeze?

aero3113

I fill a bin full of antifreeze and pull the intake hose off of the through hull and stick it in and run it. I think I use 2 gallons. This pic is when I used a hose with fresh water, but same idea.

YYZRC

Perfect!  Thanks @aero3113

aero3113

@YYZRC, use the switch at the generator to start and turn it off when you do this. Once you see the antifreeze is down, you can hit the switch to turn it off.

aero3113

Last season, I did this with the boat in the water. Just closed the sea @ock.

Cableguy Greg

I use a concrete mixing tray with an 1100 gallon per hour bilge pump attached to muffs to run antifreeze through the engine. I use 3/4” bilge pump hose in the exhaust ports on the transom plate to direct the antifreeze back to the tray. The antifreeze heats up quickly so it opens the thermostat sooner. 

YYZRC

aero3113 said:

Last season, I did this with the boat in the water. Just closed the seacock.

That’s my plan. 

Spyderweb

@aero3113 do you need to start the genny to winterize?  Mine won’t start currently, and I’m having trouble finding someone to work on it.  I’ve only got a couple of weeks before it’s likely to be pulled.

aero3113

@Spyderweb , I think you should be able to use a pump to push the antifreeze through the intake hose.

Spyderweb

That’s a relief.  Thanks.

aero3113

I’m not sure, but depending on where the impeller stopped it could be blocking flow. You might have to remove the impeller and reinstall the cover plate to get the antifreeze through. 

YYZRC

aero3113 said:

@YYZRC , this is what I now use and is recommended by @Alswagg .



Quicksilver 44357Q2 Through Gear Case Flushing Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBOUIY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_VQS3XWHSEQ7DK252MJGQ

Gotta say, these worked great!

halifax212

I am winterizing this weekend and was wondering if it ok to reduce the water flow to the muffs to cause the engine to run hotter, say 170 degrees to get the oil hotter. The flow out of the drain tube is so slow. Any concerns letting the engine run a bit hotter for this purpose?  

aero3113

@halifax212 , I don’t think it will make a difference. When using the drain tube it’s really slow. My engines run at 170 and using the tube was slow. I switched to using a pump hooked up to the dipstick tube and it pumps it out in about a minute.