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Hot wire connected to smart craft accessory?

pcmpetepcmpete Member Posts: 110 ✭✭
in Rinker Express Cruisers Forum
Does anyone what Rinker wired to my starboard accessory block that should be always hot.  The cable goes out the far side of the block into a protected sleeve then runs down in to the wiring nest.  
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    skennellyskennelly Member Posts: 2,196 ✭✭✭✭
    Bilge pumps?
    2002 - 270FV Mag 350 B3
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    aero3113aero3113 Member Posts: 8,810 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited January 2022
    Bilge pump and high water alarm float?
    2008 330EC
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    pcmpetepcmpete Member Posts: 110 ✭✭
    edited January 2022
    Would they take power from the helm area and run wiring back to the bilge where the battery is?  Seems like a lot of extra work.  aero3113 said:
    Bilge pump and high water alarm float?

    Post edited by pcmpete on
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    aero3113aero3113 Member Posts: 8,810 ✭✭✭✭✭
    For some reason I was thinking that pic was in the bilge.

    Could it be power for the head unit in the cabin?
    2008 330EC
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    pcmpetepcmpete Member Posts: 110 ✭✭
    I am wondering if it power for the trim tabs….
    I guess I will have to disconnect one of the cables and see what stops working.   
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    aero3113aero3113 Member Posts: 8,810 ✭✭✭✭✭
    It could be for the auto retract function on the trim tabs.
    2008 330EC
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    YYZRCYYZRC Member Posts: 4,912 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited January 2022
    I think that’s the orange wire? On my boat, the auto retract is wired to the ignition. 
    2008 350 EC on Georgian Bay
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    pcmpetepcmpete Member Posts: 110 ✭✭
    My tabs retract when I key off my port motor.  Those wires on the starboard terminal are hot until turn off battery
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    LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 7,553 mod
    Definitely not bilge pumps or stereo.  They have dedicated circuits.  Plus, you wouldn't want to connect anything that could draw a lot of power and potentially interfere with the DTS controllers.  

    It could be the VHF radio, which you'd want to always have power.  
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    davidbrooksdavidbrooks Member Posts: 1,344 ✭✭✭✭
    I took apart my wiring harness when i put in new guages a few years back.  The one thing i did notice is that there are a lot of components that share both + and - wiring.  You will as you start unwrapping the wiring harness that the power lines get tied in together further up the line. 
    It's 5 O'Clock Somewhere!
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    pcmpetepcmpete Member Posts: 110 ✭✭
    LaRea said:
    Definitely not bilge pumps or stereo.  They have dedicated circuits.  Plus, you wouldn't want to connect anything that could draw a lot of power and potentially interfere with the DTS controllers.  

    It could be the VHF radio, which you'd want to always have power.  
    I am having DTS issues, but on my Port Lever.  I wonder if this has any connection to this issue. 
      I will be digging deeper into this more at the weekend when I change my Lenco Trim Switch which stopped working.  
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    LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 7,553 mod
    The two DTS feeds (red/black wires in a light gray sheath) need solid connections to the batteries.  The factory wiring is one to each starter battery.  
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    pcmpetepcmpete Member Posts: 110 ✭✭


    LaRea said:
    The two DTS feeds (red/black wires in a light gray sheath) need solid connections to the batteries.  The factory wiring is one to each starter battery.  
    Switched or direct to batteries?
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    LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 7,553 mod
    They are direct to the battery.  Should be a 40-amp inline fuse close to the battery, so check that too.  
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