UPDATED with MORE electrical Questions 2005 320 FV

AtlanticJim

New boat to me and I have so many electrical questions. The first being about the battery selector switch.
This is the battery switch panel.


For today I just want to know which switch positions are used when. (I will have plenty more questions after this primary lesson. 

This is what I understand but please correct me or elaborate. TIA
 
1. Getting underway: Both STBD ENGINE and PORT ENGINE to ON, Helm power and Cabin Panel to ON

2. At anchor: both engine batteries to OFF. Helm and Cabin Panel to ON

3. Trouble starting an engine because of too little power: That engine switch to the EMERGENCY START ONLY position to use both batteries in series to start the engine. 

4. At the slip and on shore power: Both Engine switches to OFF, Helm power to OFF, Cabin panel to ON.

Currently my PORT ENGINE battery will not start the engine (starter clicking) so I have been turning that switch to both to get underway. I will check the water level in the battery and then check it with a battery tester with load capability to check the amps.

Questions:
Are the battery switches THREE position switches with the 12 o'clock and 3 o,clock positions (EMERGENCY START) being the same?

Does HELM POWER run from the engine batteries or the House batteries? (I have two house batteries)

Does CABIN PANEL run from the engine batteries or the House batteries?

Will the battery charger, when on shore power,  charge the batteries no matter which way the battery switches are positioned?

Next week I will need some help with the Cabin Panel. 
     

YYZRC

I leave all “ON” for the duration of boating season and “OFF” during winter storage. 

aero3113

YYZRC said:

I leave all “ON” for the duration of boating season and “OFF” during winter storage. 

Same here, the only selector I turn off is the generator when not in use.

Grahamu

Helm and cabin power is supplied by the house batteries. Yes the battery charger will charge all batteries regardless of battery switch positions. Not sure about the 12 and 3 o'clock positions being the same as I have never tried it.

YYZRC

aero3113 said:

YYZRC said:

I leave all “ON” for the duration of boating season and “OFF” during winter storage. 

Same here, the only selector I turn off is the generator when not in use.

Yes same here. 

Grahamu

Here is a PDF of a 2004 342 FV electrical schematic which will be very similar to your boat.

AtlanticJim

UPDATE with more questions.

(I don't know if I should start a new thread for this or not.)

I checked out all four of the batteries and all of them test fine, Volts and Amps but I still have to use emergency start (the two batteries in series) for the starboard engine. What could be the cause of that?

Also I am not getting power to the VHF or the Garmin GMI 20 at the helm. All connections checked. I also noticed when I turn on the VHF knob I get a very quiet click on the speaker. Also at that end of the helm there is a switch for underwater lights... not working. could that be related to the problem with the Starboard battery

What is the best way to trace this down? 

I pulled open the helm and it is a nest of abandoned wires from prior upgrades.

YYZRC

I had a loose connector behind the starboard battery switch in my boat that caused chaos.

Another issue could be the grounds; have you checked the engine ground on the starboard side?

AtlanticJim

YYZRC said:

I had a loose connector behind the starboard battery switch in my boat that caused chaos. 

Will check. 


Another issue could be the grounds; have you checked the engine ground on the starboard side?

 I will do that as well. 
I did not check the connection integrity on the batteries either, duh.

PickleRick

Can you reach the starter motor connections with a multi meter?  Put positive clamp on stater pos connection and other on battery neg terminal.  You should read no less than about a 1 to 2 volts drop while starting.  Now switch the cables to the POS battery terminal and the other to a ground on the starter. Turn motor over again. Still should be only around a volt drop.  This goes for boats, lawn mowers and vehicles.

Without starting the voltage difference should be no more than about .5 volts, I like to see less than .2 between starter and battery 

If you see a huge drop in voltage you have a weak battery (check them disconnected if in a bank) or an issue with wiring from battery and or ground to motor.  


If the voltage is good you could have a failing starter which a dc shunt would reveal how many amps the starter is drawing but a lot of shops dont even have these.   If you have two engines and time swapping parts from one known working motor to the other is always a great way to verify diagnostics before buying a part.   

There are some nice not cheap china made marine spec aftermarket starters that have higher rpm starting speed, better internal made components and draw less amps than OEM if you need a starter.  Cheaper than OEM as well.  I will gladly link you to the manufacturer if you're interested, I believe one or two members on here are running them. 

PO wiring issues are always a headache.  I found it easier at times to safely cap (disconnect power to them if possible) and tie old unknown wiring out of the way and run my own when powering smaller accessories like spot lights, radio, etc.   I then run my own properly sized and fused line to my new accessory.   When I fish my my wiring I always fish one extra unused wire with it. That way if I have to run another in the future I have a wire I can quickly tie to and pull wires without any fuss. 

Ian

From recent experience check all popper breakers - the white buttons. I missed one as it was up high in the panel and above eye level unless you bend down and look. They pop an inch out but if sticky may not pop fully and a press of each will seat them.

Liberty44140

Also turn off the charger when you are testing the batteries.

Pat310

I would check starter solenoid on top of engine.  Check if it starts with a screwdriver across the terminals

AtlanticJim

Yet another question…

I don’t have any power to my AC outlets with either shore power or generator. 

Before I have the electrician come, has anyone here had the same problem?

Dream_Inn

Have you checked the GFI breaker which should be on one of the outlets?  Typically they will all tie in to one or two GFI breakers.

AtlanticJim

Dream_Inn said:

Have you checked the GFI breaker which should be on one of the outlets?  Typically they will all tie in to one or two GFI breakers.

I've checked the one on the electrical panel since I expected that that is the first one in the GFCI series. But no power there when i pop and reset it. I'll have to pull the panel open and check with a multi-meter. I hope it is that simple. 
Come to think of it. I do get power to the TV and the Coffee Maker (my favorite part of this boat) and the blender (my second favorite part). So perhaps it is that simple. 

SOLVED!
it was the GFCI outlet in the electrical panel that had gone bad. Replaced it today and have AC power to all the outlets on the the starboard side

Grahamu

Check the bathroom outlet it is usually GFI