Installing and air conditioner

Bayrunner

I need to replace my air conditioner with a 16000 BTU EnviroComfort Air Conditioner Reverse-Cycle Retrofit Kit. Is this something that I can install. I an engineer and I don't think I would have a problem but thought I reach out to some of you to see if it's doable. 

PickleRick

I installed one in my Bayliner 2859.  It previously had ac at one time  so I didn't need to cut out any thru hulls or holes for my vents/ducts as they were already there.   Saved me a ton of time there 

I put in a 9000 BTU unit only to remove it and install a 12k the next season.  


First install took a whole day, the second took a couple hours.  

The wiring wasn't overly complicated.  Running the duct work and water hoses was the most time consuming part.   Wiring consists of running power to a new breaker and then to your ac control, then ac power from the control to your water pump.   

Pluming goes from thru Hull with shut off valve to strainer to bleeder valve to ac.  Then ac to discharge thru Hull.


I ran my bleeder line/ac condensation drain and shower drain all to a collection box with an independent bilge.  I like a dry bilge, it's not clean like @aero3113 but it is dry.  


Most of the install was basic hand tools, impact driver, drill.  Hole saw bits if you have to run ducts/vents, thru hulls  

Dream_Inn

@Bayrunner It should not be a problem for you to install.  I installed one on my previously owned 310.  The AC sits right under the v-berth and very easy to remove.  As long as you buy one that the air duct is on the correct side as your current one, it will set right in place.  Air duct, wiring, 2 cooling hoses & drain are all that needs disconnected/reconnected.   You may have to exchange out your old control panel as well depending on if you get the same unit or something different.  If you have to pull a new wire to the panel, you can use the old one to pull it thru (most use the same wire, so you may be able to use the old wire to panel).  Power wiring, you should be able to use what is there and just reconnect it to the new unit.

I was up near Seneca last year, staying at Bowley's quarters.  It was our first time on middle river (hard to believe, 24 years of boating and never been in that area).   The admiral & I like to do a lot of walking and did most of that peninsula.  Definitely a nice area.   We happened to be there the day the famous landmark came down.  That was rather impressive!

Liberty44140

Are you sure you want to go to a 16k? 310 came with a 10k or 12k. In my 342 16k was borderline over kill. It did get clammy from not being able to run enough, would cool the cabin from 90 to 68 in 30 min on a 95 F day. Maybe you have a good reason but I'd be careful going too big. 

oscar1

My 310  came with a 12k

Ian

Same.

Bayrunner

Dream_Inn, Thanks for your advice. They don't make the system that came with the Rinker back in 2004. They said the replacement unit is DOMETIC

DOMETIC

16000 BTU EnviroComfort Air Conditioner Reverse-Cycle Retrofit Kit.  

I plan on replace it once I get the leak in the starboard sterndrive fix. Oil line from the reservoir to the out drive is leaking. The problem is Porters Marina is looking to hire technicians but no one wants to work on boats.  So I feel this is going to be a painfully slow fix.  If I knew someone who could fix this I hire him to fix mine.

Ian

Just put one of these in.

Liberty44140

Ian did you put a 16000 in to your 310? 

Ian

I did

Liberty44140

I'll definitely be monitoring to see how the 16k works in the 31-32' boat's that came with 12k.

Bayrunner

Liberty, the 16K is the suggested replacement for the 12k model that came with the boat

Ian

Yes, it was 10 or 16. I expect it to cool and warm real quick. Replaced only because of the compressor buzz kept the admiral awake.

Liberty44140

Hope it works well! 

oscar1

you have some pic of how it fit under the bed

rasbury

Never looked on our 270 but it keeps that cabin right what you want it and right now, even in the summer...

Ian

Liberty44140 said:

Hope it works well! 

I’m planning Sunday to “get stuff ready for the admiral to move in”. Will run it up then.

Ian

Straight swap but sure, I’ll take a few.

Ian

Ian said:

Liberty44140 said:

Hope it works well! 

I’m planning Sunday to “get stuff ready for the admiral to move in”. Will run it up then.

Of course the pump didn’t prime, sometime it does on launch, others it needs a quick on plane run. Maybe next weekend.

Ian

Ian said:

Straight swap but sure, I’ll take a few.

Fits well. Came with new display and manual suggested the “legacy” one was compatible but I had to plug the new in to get it running. Calling them tomorrow to check.

oscar1

it looks good. Nothing better the a new A/C

Ian

Ian said:

Ian said:

Straight swap but sure, I’ll take a few.

Fits well. Came with new display and manual suggested the “legacy” one was compatible but I had to plug the new in to get it running. Calling them tomorrow to check.

Confirmed the Passport 2 is not compatible although it looks the same as another Passport display. But the new one being small came with a bezel plate the same size as the old so no cutting and futzing.

Ian

Thnaks. Just need to prime the pump, tried the letting off the strainer method tonight and no go. Hose in outlet next before taking a run (not that I don’t want to run her, just crappy weather and flotsam in the river.)

Liberty44140

On my 310 and 342 the sure way to prime was always to pull the output hose off the pump and let er flow, then jam it back on while the pump is running. Wet mess, but from there it pushed up hill AOK. 

YYZRC

Ian said:

Fits well. Came with new display and manual suggested the “legacy” one was compatible but I had to plug the new in to get it running. Calling them tomorrow to check.

Output duct not insulated? Or is the insulation further back?

Grahamu

Turn on your freshwater hose from the dock on low and hold it up against the A/C output thruhull and back flush the system. Make sure the seawater input thruhull is open. You can also use this method to winterize the A/C system.

Dream_Inn

So, I know posted a pic not too long ago.  The easiest way to prime it back is to loosen two of the screws on the pump and let the air sizzle out.  Takes maybe two minutes.  I've done it many times, when I forget to close my seacock before I put the lift up.

Grahamu

I have to pull the aft bed apart to get at the pump, for me it's a lot quicker back flushing with no water going into the bilge.

Ian

YYZRC said:

Ian said:

Fits well. Came with new display and manual suggested the “legacy” one was compatible but I had to plug the new in to get it running. Calling them tomorrow to check.

Output duct not insulated? Or is the insulation further back?

Nope, the original wasn’t but this does have a thin layer of something between the inner and outer. For the length, size of unit and area to condition I am not worried about thermal loss through the duct.

Ian

Grahamu said:

Turn on your freshwater hose from the dock on low and hold it up against the A/C output thruhull and back flush the system. Make sure the seawater input thruhull is open. You can also use this method to winterize the A/C system.

Yeah, that was going to be the next thing to try, thanks.

Ian

Dream_Inn said:

So, I know posted a pic not too long ago.  The easiest way to prime it back is to loosen two of the screws on the pump and let the air sizzle out.  Takes maybe two minutes.  I've done it many times, when I forget to close my seacock before I put the lift up.

Which 2 screws? Would be easier than floating up next to the outlet with a hose. Any chance to get another photo?