Check your risers and manifolds BEFORE winterization

echandler1971

Glycol filled my port engine block via the exhaust due to a pinhole somewhere in my risers/manifolds. Now the engine is pulled to be rebuilt. I'm having the other side r/m replaced too. That side started just fine, so if there was any water issues, they were minor. The port side started like a washing machine filled with wrenches.

echandler1971

aero3113

Sorry to hear that @echandler1971 !
Do you know how old the manifold/risers are? Does Volvo make dry joint manifolds/risers like Mercruiser? Maybe a good upgrade if they do.

echandler1971

I think they would be 5 years which is too long apparently. Was actually going to do it this spring as it was but too late unfortunately. I’ve had this boat for 2.5 years. 

GMSLITHO

yes sorry to hear that 

Pat310

Sorry to hear this @echandler1971. I also have my boat 2 1/2 seasons and thought about trying to squeeze one more out of the exhaust.  Decided not worth the risk because not sure when last time they were done. First 3 came out looking good and I was beginning to rue my decision. The last riser and manifold showed a tiny bit of surface rust indicating a pin hole somewhere. Sure I would have been in your situation by year end. Hopefully you don't miss too much of your season

echandler1971

So, engine block inspected. It has a cracked cylinder head, but passed pressure test otherwise. It's set to be reassembled tomorrow morning.

davidbrooks

Are you replacing the head?

PickleRick

When you see a home Depot bucket instead of a Lowe's bucket you question just how qualified the person is as a professional. 


That's good news!

echandler1971

EEngine gets loaded back in tomorrow!

YYZRC

Looks great. Lots of red! +10hp for sure!

PickleRick

You sure you want Volvo Penta red?   It makes mechanics run the other way.    Looks clean enough to eat off of, standard for rinkers. 

echandler1971

I’m back and running but hear a small leak dripping from transom assembly. Bilge runs 4x a day. I’m gonna just monitor and fix in the fall. 

PickleRick

I'd want that diagnosed sooner than later just in case the shop screwed something up.  While it may be coincidence, a leak not existent before repair that is now there after has a 50/50 shot or better of being something loose or broken while being repaired 

Rich_

Better make sure your bilge pump is not on its last legs and the backup is good as well

echandler1971

I fixed the leak. It was part of the engine re-install. The raw intake pipe clamp was a little loose. I ratcheted it down a few turns and the leak stopped. I used the blower to dry out the area and did a tissue test afterwards and it was dry. Bilge pump hasn't run since.