Access to transom stereo remote

johnny44

For anyone who has changed out the transom stereo wired remote, what is the easiest way to access the back of this remote?

YYZRC

Remove the breaker box below it and reach up in. It is held in place with a u shaped metal bracket with two small (maybe 10mm) nuts. 

Aqua_Aura

There is also the engine vent grill from the outside. 

aero3113

You might be able to reach up from inside the engine compartment. It’s tight and high but maybe be doable. I remember looking up at it in my engine bay once. Removing the breaker panel will probably be easiest though.

johnny44

Thanks all - very helpful. I was able to get access through the breaker panel (with some scratches to the arm).

For anyone who has replaced these - the old Clarion on the transom was a CMRC1-BSS. Those types of remotes are hard wired. They have a mounting stud on the back for an electrical connection. (The same for the old MW-1 on my dash). Now the transom unit is a 6 pin. The new MW1 is an 8 pin. I bought a 6 pin to 8 pin adapter. From what I have read (and there isn't that much information on this believe it or not), the new MW1 (which doesn't have any mounting stud for power as the unit is supposed to just work with the 8 pin cable) is supposed to work. You won't see any lighting or the display screen, but the buttons are supposed to work. Nope. Nothing. From the limited information that I saw online, one guy had to remove the power from his old MW1 on the dash, which allowed both new style MW1 to work (buttons only not the display). 

As for now, I am fine with having the dash remote work. I replaced the transom one because it was cracked and I was hoping that the new MW1 would at least be able to control the volume. 

If anyone has been down this road and has information to add or offer, it would be appreciated.

YYZRC

I gave up trying to find an adapter and replaced the head unit and transom remote with newer Clarion stuff. I eliminated the helm remote. 

Aqua_Aura

I changed the stereo, remotes, and wire to the new 8 pin. Didn't bother with adapters. 

johnny44

Thanks. I guess that's money to be spent on a future project. My stereo is relatively new from the previous owner (Clarion M309). I bought a blue tooth adapter from Amazon that works well. I may change out the head unit to a Clarion M508 at some point. The thought of running new wires for the remote...not something that I want to do. Maybe I'll search for a system with wireless remotes that don't require too much work for replacement. 

mattie

@johnny44
I've travelled that same stereo path you are on. Clarion upgrades, remotes, Kicker, JL Audio & Fusion.
I would save up & do a proper revamp. Clarion works well - when it works. But have a good look at the newer marine brands. The features & quality are far better now. Tech has moved along dramatically recent years. Wired & wireless remotes.

Our last revamp....we hired marine pros for the install. The cabling & neatness & proper set up is worth every penny when you pay the pros. 

Fusion stereos (Garmin) are awesome. JL Audio exceptional as well.

Rich_

Since all music is through my phones now, I did away with a true stereo head unit. Currently have a Bluetooth receiver that has RCA output going directly to a hidden 200 watt alpine amp that is turned on by a separate breaker. Volume and music controls all handled by the iPhone and I can easily let someone else play tunes as well

rasbury

That sort of set up @Rich_ seems to be the way to go- my 07 still has the original head unit and Amp. None of the controls work. We don't really listen to it that much
 At the marina I guess it's a pho pa to have music going...there aren't really any raft up parties my end of the river. Sometimes sitting or running yes on the music but I got bigger fish to fry it seems to deal with...

YYZRC

I went with the M508 with Sirius module. I mounted the new Sirius antenna in the helm behind the compass. Works great. Lots of options as @mattie says but you can also spend big $$. I did the head unit, speakers, cables (everything but the amp) for under $800 by watching for deals. 

Getting the old remote cable out is a bear as it is zip tied to the harness. I originally left it in place and slowly cut it out over time. 

Rich_

As long as I have cell service I can use the SiriusXM app. Bonus with that is there are more channels than the standard lineup 

YYZRC

@johnny44 I forgot to mention, you should check the nuts holding heavy gauge wires on the charging breakers. I had two come loose which caused intermittent charging issues. 

One approach you might consider is moving the helm MW1 to the transom if that’s where you will primarily control the stereo from. The helm control is easy to access by removing the switch bank - perhaps if you disconnect it, the transom control will work. 

johnny44

So I found an old Rockford Fosgate wired remote (RFXMR3). It is the same puck style (no drilling or filling holes) and same hard wire as the old Clarion MW1 with the electrical spade on the back. **Supposedly** it works with Clarion according to some research (and by research I am talking about my friend Google). So I am spending the $40 to see if it will work. 

If this works and it buys me a couple of years, then by that time, I am sure technology will have come up with some great head units and wireless remotes that will fill those spaces. Worst case, it doesn't work, but I have a new looking remote on the transom that looks pretty and is functionless. For now, I am okay with my current head unit. Replacing the speakers 2 at a time with the Polk ones recommended from the forum and noticing a difference. 

If anyone needs a new style MW1, let me know, I am hoping to have a spare one available!

YYZRC

You will most likely have succumbed to that nasty mariners disease commonly known as twofootitis before you need to upgrade the remote…

johnny44

I am revisiting my interest in upgrading my stereo system. 
Has anyone pulled/installed new remote wires on a 350 EC? 
Looking for any tips or advice on pulling new remote wire from the head unit in the cabin cabinet (starboard side) to the helm for the remote. Is getting a fish tape through pretty easy (or difficult)?

YYZRC

You can't pull the wires as the existing wires are taped to the loom.

Getting a fish wire into the main panel area is pretty easy. Remove the speaker at the helm and that will give you a good visual down into the main panel area.

Disconnect all AC power (I disconnect at the pedestal) and remove the 2 screws holding each electrical panel in place. I remove the cabinet doors so that there is more room for the electrical panels to swing open. 

Look up and aft behind the AC panel and you should see daylight from the helm. You should have no issue getting your new control wire down to the head unit.

johnny44

@YYZRC I was hoping that was the answer because I already ordered all of the stuff!!
More to come on this and I will share pics if this upgrade works out like I am hoping.

johnny44

Here is an update with some pics. Hope this helps anyone who has been struggling with the wired Clarion remotes.

So this has been bothering me for a couple of years as I have been trying to upgrade the Clarion remotes trying to match the Clarion head, even going so far as to buy the 6 to 8 pin adaptors. Then I find out that some of the older remotes had a spade on the back of them for a power connections...and some of them do not. Well, Clarion finally stopped making the MW1 remote last year - and you cannot find them anymore (except occasionally on Ebay for $200 for a used one). 

Well I've been going down all kinds of rabbit holes looking for the best way to upgrade. My speakers are all new, and my amp is good...so basically I just wanted a new head (with Bluetooth) and I wanted remotes. I looked at a number of brands, including Fusion (really nice) because they have wireless remotes. There were two problems that I was encountering - first was that most of the remotes were not big enough. The Clarion MW1 remote - if you pull it out to replace it, it has a 3" diameter hole. Not many options there. The second was the space for the head unit. In my 350 EC -it is in the electrical panel - single DIN and not much room for a bigger unit. 

I figured that I couldn't be the only one with this issue. So as I watched a ton of videos (basically google searched radio upgrade express cruiser). I came across a company in Long Island who has upgraded audio on a bunch of Sea Ray Sundancers. What he used actually fit for a Clarion replacement.

I was able to replace both wired remotes - the one in the helm and the one in the transom. And they covered the hole! (an added bonus was that they require a 3" diameter hole...bingo!).\

Yes, I ran all new wires for the remote. It wasn't too bad once you knew where to look for access. (Thank you @YYZRC )

The head unit would fit into a single DIN. The face was a little tight. I had to use a Dremel and shave a little bit off of the bottom.

When I was done, I sat back all proud of myself admiring my handy work...that is until I tried to close the cabinet door for the night. Well, silly me - I never thought to measure the depth of the receiver face. Turns out the volume knob sticks out a little too far to be able to close the door. After sleeping on it and thinking it over, I just decided to drill out a small piece on the inside of the cabinet door so I could close it. Otherwise I am really happy with the system.

I can control the different zones separately from each unit. You can play different things on different zones. And the displays on the remotes show the same thing as the head unit. So not too bad of an upgrade considering it has taken me a couple of years to come up with something!

Here are some picks.