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New AC, no raw water intake needed.
J3ff
Member Posts: 4,060 ✭✭✭✭✭
For the second year in a row, our water seems to be be too "hot" for my marin air (built in miami of all places) to run. Yes I've already run cleaner through it, the water does fill the bucket in the amount of time. It just seems like they put a safeguard in this model that just is too "safe" and it senses the high pressure side as having too much pressure and shuts off. Meanwhile if you flip the breaker it'll run for 5 mins no problem over and over.
The unit is 2 or 3 years old and I've always not liked having a water line running.
Of course you can always buy a portable unit, but they are huge and require tubing to a window or something.
And then I came across this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C339STSM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Going to try it out in a temporary position up front for a while, but.... there's an access panel under the captains seat on the 270... I'm wondering if the intake and exhaust hoses could be routed up that way (or if need be back towards the Engine room or pretty much anywhere else that can grab fresh air and then we just use this one in the marine compressors place.
It would be no problem at all to 3d print some kind of funnel that then could be connected to the already existing hose. The water that the unit would produce could even be routed though the same drain that's already there.
here's another one, both within 100 dollars of each other.
https://www.amazon.com/EF-ECOFLOW-Portable-Conditioner-Conditioning/dp/B0C9CMVLTS/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3VMRNOVEDWSV7&keywords=ECOFLOW+wave+2&qid=1688434004&sprefix=ecoflow+wave+2,aps,110&sr=8-3&ufe=app_do:amzn1.fos.765d4786-5719-48b9-b588-eab9385652d5
Thoughts?
The unit is 2 or 3 years old and I've always not liked having a water line running.
Of course you can always buy a portable unit, but they are huge and require tubing to a window or something.
And then I came across this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C339STSM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Going to try it out in a temporary position up front for a while, but.... there's an access panel under the captains seat on the 270... I'm wondering if the intake and exhaust hoses could be routed up that way (or if need be back towards the Engine room or pretty much anywhere else that can grab fresh air and then we just use this one in the marine compressors place.
It would be no problem at all to 3d print some kind of funnel that then could be connected to the already existing hose. The water that the unit would produce could even be routed though the same drain that's already there.
here's another one, both within 100 dollars of each other.
https://www.amazon.com/EF-ECOFLOW-Portable-Conditioner-Conditioning/dp/B0C9CMVLTS/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3VMRNOVEDWSV7&keywords=ECOFLOW+wave+2&qid=1688434004&sprefix=ecoflow+wave+2,aps,110&sr=8-3&ufe=app_do:amzn1.fos.765d4786-5719-48b9-b588-eab9385652d5
Thoughts?
Comments
I don't know what the humidity is here but it's insane
Same thing last year, approaching 91/92 and no cooling.
Looking forward to getting this all installed, I'd leave it on 24/7 if it doesn't need water running.
Currently the marin air unit is
17.5w 11d 10h
Ecoflow 2 is
20"D x 13"W x 12"H
The PA600 is
18.7"D x 11.61"W x 15.94"H
Looks like it'll be close. Suppose it doesn't HAVE to go where the built in AC is.. but it would just be cool if it could be hidden. I pretty much only use the app to control the marin air one as it is..
All air coolers create heat as they remove heat. One way or another, you need to remove that heat from the space you are cooling. This system uses an exhaust air duct, which is a horribly inefficient process. There's no way it can work as well as normal marine systems that use water to remove heat.
The current system on the boat is 6000 btu and it does a great job. In this case it will pull fresh air for the compressor from up top somewhere and exhaust it back out that way, will work that out when it gets here.
https://www.marineoutfitters.ca/index.cfm?category=11375%7C11178&product=55757916&code=Dometic%20205160066
I thought the 12.5k BTU unit I installed was on the excessive side but after further reading many owners with the same size boat run 16k for the cabin and another 9-12k for an enclosed helm (Alaskan bulkhead)
I check their web page and they don't have any marine A/C and i also check great lake skipper and their unit are 220 volt. I may have to call a local dealer to see if they want to order one for myself.
Regards,
Ian
The Third “B”
Secretary, Ravena Coeymans Yacht Club
https://www.rcyachtclub.com/
Do you know how the electrical for the A/C is install in out boat, I have a plug for the a/c from short power, an a/c breaker at the 110 volt panel, but i don't have any clue how it should be be install. I am going to see if i can traces the cables next week.
Not sure what your question is about how to install? It was a very simple remove and replace in my case. No extra parts needed and it used the original pump and thermostat.
I'm running 12k in a slightly smaller boat. I'd have gone with 16k if it wasn't for the amp demand.
It does work, it keeps the temps nice and comfortable, NOT ICE cold like the built in AC does. However, it's good enough for sure.
However, as I said above, it only does this if you put the unit outside and pipe the air in and then pipe the air back out to it as well.
So at that point you are just as good (and possibly better, more to come on that) in buying a 6k btu window shaker and doing the exact same thing.
Although this thing is amazingly light, quiet and portable.
If it was 400-500 bucks instead of 980 (after taxes) I'd prob keep it. However right now the "utility" just isn't worth the up charge. Going to get a 6k window unit, 3d print some adapters for a regular drier hose duct size and call it a day. Hopefully the water temps stay under 90 in the canal, as it has this entire weekend (of course!)
I'd be worried most about the AC housing rusting and the condensation leaving a nice rust stain anywhere it sits on the boat.