276 batteries - Which one is the deep cycle and cranking?

franchrmfranchrm Member Posts: 40 ✭✭
Hi all,

Just bougth a 2016 276 BR and I am looking to replace the batteries.   In the engine compartment one battery is fore and one aft.  Which battery is the deepcycle and which one is the cranking battery?   I assume the deep cycle is the one that is correltated to the "On" position on the battery switch?

Thanks!

Comments

  • PickleRickPickleRick Member Posts: 4,014 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I run a combination deep cycle/starter battery for both.  This gives me an extra starting battery.    
  • MarkBMarkB Member Posts: 3,976 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I'm not sure I understand the question.

    Deep cycle is a battery technology (type of batteries) that allows the user to discharge it more "deeply", to a lower state of charge ... doesn't necessarily refer to the position it is used in. Lead-acid batteries don't do well if you discharge them consistently below 70% ... it starts to destroy the chemicals within the battery, and it loses capacity. It's okay in the starter position because you would draw very little capacity out of the battery to start the engine, and then the alternator will kick in the recharge.  A deep cycle, on the other hand, can be discharging to feed the radio, fridge, etc ... without the engine running ... and so you want a technology, like gel batteries, that isn't going to get damaged when you discharge it to a low capacity state (like down to 20% capacity).  Every battery has it's limits ... if they are overcharged or over-discharged ... the materials within get damaged.

    Of course, we would recommend a high-amperage cell for the crank, and a deep cycle for the HOUSE battery.  So are you asking which one is the crank/starter and which one is the house battery?

    A deep cycle will come with certain markings like 27D, 31D, AGM, Gell Battery. 

    The next thing to note is, you cannot rely on someone else's position of batteries. It could easily be wired up differently for you.  Best test is to disconnect one of the batteries (remove cable safely) ... and see what has power.

    Boat Name: King Kong

    "Boat + Water = Fun"

  • franchrmfranchrm Member Posts: 40 ✭✭
    Thanks...mainly trying to determine which one is which as neither of them say "deep cycle" on the battery.

    If I turn on the radio, and remove one of the battery cables and the radio goes off, that one should be a deep cycle battery?  Is my thinking correct?
    Thanks
  • mattiemattie Member Posts: 1,277 ✭✭✭✭
    @franchrm
    Radio, cockpit lights, nav/anchor lights, blower, etc. Most of those should be running on the ‘House’ battery. 
    Both house & starting marine batts are good for 3-5 seasons. Depending on use & maintenance.
    246BR, 276BR, H310BR current
  • mattiemattie Member Posts: 1,277 ✭✭✭✭
    Also….if you have a shore power plug & on board charger to charge the batteries - be sure it is on the correct setting for the battery type you buy.
    Lead acid, AGM, Lithium all have slightly different charging requirements.

    On our 276BR we had a charger installed at the dealer. Worked well…..
    246BR, 276BR, H310BR current
  • JoeStangJoeStang Member Posts: 1,122 ✭✭✭✭
    The aft battery is the starting and fore is the house. Mine stock came with a Group 24 starting and Group 27 Dual Purpose. After a couple seasons I got tired of running out of power when pumping the radio, so I bought:
    • New starting battery
    • (2) Group 31 deep cycle
    • 30A 3 bank charger
    • Installed an inlet on the port side of the boat to plug into the marina power
    Now I have essentially one VERY large house battery that will never drain in a day. The starting battery is always charging when the motor is running, and does not provide power to anything other than starter in normal operation.

    The switch I have is ON / OFF / COMBINE. You should turn it to OFF when you're away from the boat, move it to ON for normal operation, and use COMBINE if the starting battery is dead and you need to use the house battery to get the engine started. Do not use COMBINE if you drain the house battery down, as that will leave you completely out of power if you run the radio on the starting battery. Also never move the position of the battery switch with the engine running.


    2013 276 Cuddy ~ 350 MAG / B3
  • franchrmfranchrm Member Posts: 40 ✭✭
    JoeStag-

    So you have three batteries? 

    Where did you mount the ProSport 20 in the engine compartment?


  • MarkBMarkB Member Posts: 3,976 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I don't have my boat anymore to check, but isn't the radio on the crank battery, doesn't it get it's power through the engine start key? Or is that just a trigger?

    Boat Name: King Kong

    "Boat + Water = Fun"

  • Pat310Pat310 Member Posts: 567 ✭✭✭
    @MarkB I know on my 2003 it is wired that way. Connected to the accessory pole of the port side ignition switch. So definitely on starter battery. Would hope by 2016 Rinker would have fixed that mistake
  • SpyderwebSpyderweb Member Posts: 915 ✭✭✭
    Is this true?  If stereo on start key, it’s running off crank battery?  Mine’s on if key is turned to accessory, and I’d swear it runs down house battery quicker if I’m running the stereo all day.
  • Pat310Pat310 Member Posts: 567 ✭✭✭
    Hear a pic of my ignition switch panel. The red with black stripe come off the breakers which lead with jumper from one to the other. The pink wire on top switch is the radio power hooked to the acc post on the port switch. So yes, it is connected to the cranking battery on my boat
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