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Anchor Chain & Rode replacement on 2005 342

Maddux99Maddux99 Member Posts: 19
Hey guys, I've been reading the countless threads on Anchor chain/Rode options on the 342 and have answered most of my  questions with those threads, but I still have a few more. My boat is equipped with a Lewmar Pro 1000 with a RC0864 Gypsy (5/16" G4 chain and 9/16" or 5/8" line). This is where I am running into confusion.  The current chain on the boat is 1/4" G4 with 1/2" line.  I have never had any trouble with this setup and didn't even realize the chain was mismatched with the Gypsy as this is the way it was setup when I purchased the boat in mid 2022.  The line isn't in the greatest shape and I'm getting ready to order new chain/line from Dark Horse Marine. Since I haven't had any issues with skipping or binding should I just leave the Gypsy as it is and replace with new 1/4" chain & 1/2" line? Also, I currently only have 15' of chain and 100' of line.  I want to go with 40' chain and 160' 3 strand line.  I have seen on a thread where someone went with 200' 1/4" chain, but I am not sure if that much 3 strand will lay in the locker without issues. Does anyone have experience with this chain/line combination?

Or should I switch to 5/16" chain with 9/16" line?  How would that affect the locker space?
2005 342 FV
Post edited by Maddux99 on

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    MH342MH342 Member Posts: 68 ✭✭

    Now I have to check what I have. Almost certain it’s still the OEM rhode and it’s on my list to replace soon.  Same 15’ of chain with 100’ of line but I think mine is 5/8 or 3/4 8-plait.  I’ve also never had issues but I never checked the chain size vs gypsy specs. 

    My recommendation is to definitely stay away from 3 strand with a windlass.  It tends to kink and jam and hockle. 8-plait is the way to go. Everyone I know who ran 3-strand with a Gypsy had issues until they switched.  3-strand is strong and great for shock absorption, but it already has a twist set in the line when relaxed and as you stretch it, it wants to twist up more.  

    I made 3 strand work OK on my last boat which didn’t have a windlass. It was slightly better once I put in an anchor swivel but that’s just another failure point.  I’ve never had an issue with jamming or tangling with my current 8-plait. It lays flat and has a balanced weave that doesn’t twist at rest or when stretched. 
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    Maddux99Maddux99 Member Posts: 19
    I had been considering going to 8-plait for the better storage tendencies. I may go ahead and do that. With the better lay in the locker I may be ok switching to 5/16 chain and 5/8 8-plait.  I plan to open the v-berth next week so I can access the anchor locker and get a better idea of space before ordering one or the other. 


    On a side note, I just noticed that I accidentally put this in the Generator discussion.  Is there any way to move it to a different discussion. I can't see a way to do it. 
    2005 342 FV
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    Dream_InnDream_Inn Member, Moderator Posts: 7,561 mod
    I've moved the topic to general boating discussion.

    Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express

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    LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 7,557 mod
    Maddux99 said:
    ... Also, I currently only have 15' of chain and 100' of line.  I want to go with 40' chain and 160' 3 strand line.  I have seen on a thread where someone went with 200' 1/4" chain...
    Agree 15' is not enough.  It's fine for a lunch hook in calm weather, but you'd be safer with 40-60 feet. 

    There's plenty of debate about all-chain rodes.  I prefer having some rope.  In theory, rope provides a bit of stretch when anchored in truly serious weather.  And if there's an emergency, I can part the rope with a knife.  I've never personally tested either of those situations, and hope I never do.
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    mattiemattie Member Posts: 1,254 ✭✭✭✭
    Agree @LaRea.
    I like some rope in there as well. Slightly off topic but I keep a cork handled floating knife up in my windlass locker - just for that reason......


    246BR, 276BR, H310BR current
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    aero3113aero3113 Member Posts: 8,812 ✭✭✭✭✭
    @mattie , I keep a serrated dive knife in the cockpit for that reason also. I like how yours can float!
    2008 330EC
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    Maddux99Maddux99 Member Posts: 19
    I also keep a knife beside the windlass in case of emergencies. Mine is not as nice as Mattie's. It's just an old stainless blade knife I had laying around and doesn't float. I had not thought about losing that option if I went all chain.
    I'm pretty sure I am going to do 40' chain/160' rope. I want more length than I had before. I have been short a few times and couldn't get the scope I really needed.   I have a test length of 5/16 chain coming from Dark Horse to test out on my chainwheel. After I get the chain locker opened up inside so I can see how much room I have I'll make a final decision.  I've been satisfied with the performance of the 1/4 chain, I'm definitely on the fence on matching the chain to the chainwheel or keeping things the same as they have been. I guess I could always order a chainwheel for 1/4 in the future if needed. 
    2005 342 FV
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    Dream_InnDream_Inn Member, Moderator Posts: 7,561 mod
    Well, I definitely like the 100' of chain I have and don't think I'll ever go less on another boat.  That being said, I still have 150' of line on the end as well and I keep a nice serrated knife that I have used - on a line tied between rafted boats.  I'll also add, the storm I had been in (& wrote about), it would've been tough to even think about going on the bow to do anything.  I like the floating knife idea.  Anything that floats around water is a good idea (I even have floating sunglasses that are actually worn out - I replaced last season.  It's a first for having long enough to wear out). 

    Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express

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    Maddux99Maddux99 Member Posts: 19
    Dream_Inn said:
    Well, I definitely like the 100' of chain I have and don't think I'll ever go less on another boat.  That being said, I still have 150' of line on the end as well and I keep a nice serrated knife that I have used - on a line tied between rafted boats.  I'll also add, the storm I had been in (& wrote about), it would've been tough to even think about going on the bow to do anything.  I like the floating knife idea.  Anything that floats around water is a good idea (I even have floating sunglasses that are actually worn out - I replaced last season.  It's a first for having long enough to wear out). 
    Do you use an anchor snubber or bridle when the chain isn't past the windlass?
    2005 342 FV
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    Dream_InnDream_Inn Member, Moderator Posts: 7,561 mod
    Maddux99 said:
    Dream_Inn said:
    Well, I definitely like the 100' of chain I have and don't think I'll ever go less on another boat.  That being said, I still have 150' of line on the end as well and I keep a nice serrated knife that I have used - on a line tied between rafted boats.  I'll also add, the storm I had been in (& wrote about), it would've been tough to even think about going on the bow to do anything.  I like the floating knife idea.  Anything that floats around water is a good idea (I even have floating sunglasses that are actually worn out - I replaced last season.  It's a first for having long enough to wear out). 
    Do you use an anchor snubber or bridle when the chain isn't past the windlass?
    I make a bridle using a15 ft line and tie it to the chain with a prusik knot.  It actually works very well.

    Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express

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    IanIan Member Posts: 2,779 ✭✭✭✭
    When I replaced the 600 with the Lewmar 1000 I did the rode also and this is what Lewmar told me to use:

    Lewmar PRO series 1000 Windlass with 516 gypsy

    5/8”; 8 plait rope and G4 5/16” ISO G4 chain

    Regards,

    Ian

    The Third “B”

    Secretary, Ravena Coeymans Yacht Club

    https://www.rcyachtclub.com/

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    Maddux99Maddux99 Member Posts: 19
    Ian said:
    When I replaced the 600 with the Lewmar 1000 I did the rode also and this is what Lewmar told me to use:

    Lewmar PRO series 1000 Windlass with 516 gypsy

    5/8”; 8 plait rope and G4 5/16” ISO G4 chain

    I am leaning more toward going with Lewmar's suggestion as well.  As soon as the test chain arrives and I can verify it fits the chainwheel properly (just to make me feel better) I am going to make a final decision and order.
    2005 342 FV
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    Maddux99Maddux99 Member Posts: 19
    Has anyone attempted to seal around the false wall between the rode locker and berth on a 342? I thought about maybe weather strip or something to close the gap along  the top of the wall to help keep out the wet smell of lake water. 
    2005 342 FV
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    MH342MH342 Member Posts: 68 ✭✭
    edited March 9
    I bought a section of this and cut it to fit on the floor of the anchor locker to help it dry out and prevent it from sitting in a puddle. I also pull all the line out in the fall and leave it bundled on the bow rail under the shrink wrap to dry out. So far that has kept any smell at bay for me.

    I choose this stuff because it’s heavy and lays flat, and it doesn’t have any rough edges that would catch on the line.  It’s also flexible enough to roll up and stuff through the tiny little access port. 

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    Maddux99Maddux99 Member Posts: 19
    That's a great idea. I'll probably fo that while I've still got it opened up. I also cleaned the locker thoroughly. There was an inch of solid mud in the bottom. I couldn't even see the starboard access cover before I started cleaning. I'm sure that will help a ton. 
    2005 342 FV
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    alex8q4alex8q4 Member Posts: 59 ✭✭
    Getting rid of that mud would certainly help with the smell.  We bring our rode home every few years and put it in the washing machine.  That also really helps keep things smelling fresh. 

    Can you please elaborate on which access cover you are referring to as hidden by the mud? I am only familiar with the round access into / from the forward birth below the mirror. 
    2006 342FV - Ontario
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    Dream_InnDream_Inn Member, Moderator Posts: 7,561 mod
    I pull my rode out each year and leave it sit in a 5 gallon bucket with downy detergent.  It softens it up and cleans it.  I then spray it with a good pressure hose.  I also use the access hole and clean the mud out.

    Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express

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    Maddux99Maddux99 Member Posts: 19
    Clearing the mud made a huge difference. I keep a dehumidifier running in the cabin and it smells better now than it has since I've owned the boat. The mildew smell I've been chasing for 2 years is gone. 
     
    2005 342 FV
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    Maddux99Maddux99 Member Posts: 19
    alex8q4 said:
    Getting rid of that mud would certainly help with the smell.  We bring our rode home every few years and put it in the washing machine.  That also really helps keep things smelling fresh. 

    Can you please elaborate on which access cover you are referring to as hidden by the mud? I am only familiar with the round access into / from the forward birth below the mirror. 
    This one. I've read several threads where it is the culprit for water in the forward bilge.  
    2005 342 FV
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    davidbrooksdavidbrooks Member Posts: 1,349 ✭✭✭✭
    When my Lewmar 600 finally gave up the ghost i replaced it with a 700.  This also was the time for me to redo the rhode and chain.  I went with the 8 plait based on a lot of discussion and the results for me were a bit mixed.  I actually went with a line that was larger than i had and it had a lot of trouble biting into the gears.  The one thing that i will tell you was a challenge once i got a smaller size rhode was the splice to the chain.  I thought i do it myself and braiding an 8 plait line is not the easiest.  Getting the braid small and tight so that it would still go through the gypsy was a challenge.  I tried going to WM to have them do it but they wouldn't unless i bought the line and chain from them.
    It's 5 O'Clock Somewhere!
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    Maddux99Maddux99 Member Posts: 19
    edited March 12
    When my Lewmar 600 finally gave up the ghost i replaced it with a 700.  This also was the time for me to redo the rhode and chain.  I went with the 8 plait based on a lot of discussion and the results for me were a bit mixed.  I actually went with a line that was larger than i had and it had a lot of trouble biting into the gears.  The one thing that i will tell you was a challenge once i got a smaller size rhode was the splice to the chain.  I thought i do it myself and braiding an 8 plait line is not the easiest.  Getting the braid small and tight so that it would still go through the gypsy was a challenge.  I tried going to WM to have them do it but they wouldn't unless i bought the line and chain from them.
    I have bought the chain/line from Dark Horse. I went with 5/16 chain and 5/8 8-plait line. I too have some concerns about the chain to rope splice going through the windlass. I've read a lot of posts of trouble in this area. I just got the order in yesterday and haven't opened it up to look at the splice yet. Also, my chainwheel is eat up a little from running the wrong size chain. I'm hoping that won't cause me problems. Hopefully I'm not sorry for switching to 8-plait from 3 strand. Time will tell. I plan to load the new line in the windlass tomorrow. Waiting for the 4200 to cure where I resealed the windlass holes. 
    2005 342 FV
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    Dream_InnDream_Inn Member, Moderator Posts: 7,561 mod
    As for the splice, it takes time but you can do it.  I did mine last winter and was really happy with the results.







    Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express

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    LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 7,557 mod
    ... Getting the braid small and tight so that it would still go through the gypsy was a challenge. ...
    @davidbrooks - Same here.  My first attempt at splicing 8-plait was definitely not as tight as they show in the youtube videos, but I haven't tried using it for anchoring yet.
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