My Kohler 5E will not crank

GeorgeJetson

My Kohler 5E will not turn over with the start switch. Serial number 0625674. It is in a 2000 Rinker 270.
If I jumper the solenoid it turns over fine.
I have checked the following with either a volt meter or ohm meter.
1. Rocker start/stop switch
2. Both fuses. The fuse itself and the connectors.
3. The breaker connectors.
Have checked for loose wires.
Removed, checked, and reinstalled all connections.
I found a schematic and traced the "71a" wire . It has good connection all the way from the starter relay solenoid to the Bosch relay. The Bosch relay shows 12 volts going to it all the time. When I hit the start toggle one of the terminals reads 1 volt but the "71a" terminal will not read anything.
Does this mean that it is probably the circuit board or am I missing something.
Thanks for any help,
Henry

212rowboat

Man I'm feeling bad for you that nobodies responded yet.. they must be out floating.. :-)

I don't own one, but reading your post: which side of the solenoid are you jumping to?

GeorgeJetson

The solenoid has three wires going to it. One to the battery switch, one to the starter, and one to the controller box. I jumper the controller box to the battery and it turns over fine.

I also posted on iboats.com with no luck there either. No dealer close and trying not to spend the big $$$.

Thanks for your reply.

212rowboat

I agree with Yan... it sounds like you isolated the problem, already, and it's the solenoid..

Black_Diamond

You can get parts from here:

www.partsfortechs.com/asapcart/

You need your generator S/N and the spec number ideally

GeorgeJetson

RinkerYan said:

Check for voltage on the solenoid at the wire that goes to the controller box when you are pressing the start switch. Is there 12V? If not, there is a controller problem. If there is 12V sounds like a bad solenoid.

That is the problem. When I hit the start switch I do not get 12 volts to the starter. Traced the solenoid wire all the way from the solenoid to the relay in the controller to the relay board.

No power to the relay board when I hit the start button. The start button works properly and the fuel pump starts when I hit "start". Hate to spend $200 on the relay board just to find out that isn't the problem.

Thanks again for your help. Will probably throw the dice on the relay board.

 

Black_Diamond

If you call the people at Parts for Techs, they can help too.  They know the bugs.

john744

Just went completely through my 5e ............. actually still going through it..........

Here's a link to the full service manual.  There is an excellent trouble shooting guide on page 35, Section 6 page 21.  Schematic on page 56, Section 10 page 42.

http://whalewatchingguatemala.com/yate/KOLHER-MARINE-GENERATOR-5E.pdf

I don't know about you, but just trying to get to my genny is a PIA. I've got a 2002 FV 310 and it's tucked under the deck.  I had to take the lid off the control box and remove the control board so I could see the LED's.  I had a bad diode on the circuit board (which is conformally coated and you must scrape/clean any test points).  Once I replaced the diode things started to work, but led to another problem, bad fuel and stuck Anti-Dieseling Valve. Cleaned that up.  Then I had to disconnect the oil pressure line to get it to run because my generator is not putting out and the safety circuits shut it down. Still chasing that down, but the engine runs.  Enough about mine, to directly address your questions.

I have checked the following with either a volt meter or ohm meter.
1. Rocker start/stop switch
2. Both fuses. The fuse itself and the connectors.
3. The breaker connectors.
Have checked for loose wires.
Removed, checked, and reinstalled all connections.
I found a schematic and traced the "71a" wire . It has good connection all the way from the starter relay solenoid to the Bosch relay. The Bosch relay shows 12 volts going to it all the time. When I hit the start toggle one of the terminals reads 1 volt but the "71a" terminal will not read anything.
Does this mean that it is probably the circuit board or am I missing something.
Thanks for any help,
Henry

At least 1 of the terminals of the Bosch Relay (K-20) should/MUST read 12v all the time. (see schematic).  You provided limited information, but if K-20 is operating properly, you should read 12V on 3 terminals when it is activated.  Both sides of the contacts should read 12v and 1 side of the coil should read 12v too.  It would be nice to know if relay K-3 is operating (LED 3 on).

The bosch K-20 relay is driven by another relay on the control board K-3.  K-3 can only operate if relay K-2 provides 12v to the coil.  K-2 also provides 12v to the ignition circuits, electric choke heater, Anti-Dieseling Valve and Fuel Pump.

Having the control board out so you can see the LEDs is very helpful in determining where the fault lies.  Repairing the board is relatively simple, but be aware that the board has been sprayed with a conformal coating which makes it resistant to salt air corrosion.  When checking any of these parts, you MUST scrape/clean the component, or the multi-meter will will not read correctly.

In my case, it was a $0.10 part on a $300 board.  Ridiculous!

6.1 Sequence of Operation

This section describes the controller sequence of operation during the generator start, run, stop, and fault shutdown modes and describes the relay testing procedures. Use this section as a starting point for controller fault identification. Use the LEDs on the controller circuit board to assist in the troubleshooting process. An illuminated LED indicates that the respective relay is receiving power; the LED does not indicate whether that relay is energized or working properly. 6.1.1 Start Close the start/stop switch between N and 47 (local or remote). The K2 relay energizes and LED2 is illuminated. The normally-open K2 contacts close to energize the K3 relay (LED3 lights), fuel pump (FP), choke heater (CHTR), antidiesel solenoid (ADS), ignition (IGN), and hourmeter (HR). Flashing of the main field occurs when the K2 contacts close. The normally-open K3 contacts close to energize the K20 relay. The normally-open K20 contacts close, energizing the starter relay and the starter motor. Note: The normally-closed LOP contacts open when the engine builds oil pressure. This may take a few seconds after engine cranking is initiated. 6.1.2 Run The bridged rectifier (BR1) receives AC voltage (12--15 volts) through the B1 and B2 windings of the stator. The K1 relay energizes (LED1 lights). The normally-open K1 contacts close to maintain voltage to the K2 relay, allowing the function of the fuel pump (FP), choke heater (CHTR), antidiesel solenoid (ADS), ignition (IGN), hourmeter (HR), and the remote panel gauges. The normally-closed K1 contacts open, ending the flashing by preventing battery voltage to the main field (+) and (--). The K6 relay energizes. The normally-open K6 contacts close, latching itself on. The normally-closed K6 contacts open, preventing inadvertent starter engagement by disabling the the K3 relay. The K3 relay is deenergized (LED3 Off). The K3 contacts open, deenergizing the K20 relay. The K20 contacts open, deenergizing the starter relay and starter motor.

GeorgeJetson

Thanks for all the help. From everything above and a trusty multi-meter I am pretty sure the problem is the relay board.

Found a good company on the internet that rebuilds these boards.

Colburn Electronics controls in Illinois. Walked me through a check. $39 to check the board and a total of $139 if it needs repair. Sent it off today and hope to have it back in a week or so.

I will post the results.

Once again thanks to all. Not trying to bash the forum on iboats.com because it has great info but no one made a reply to my same post.

mvn

iboats.com is a great forum. It really depends where you posted your question. If it was in the Rinker sub-forum, forget it!

Mark