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Can I pick your collective brains for an engine start problem? '94 Rinker 265, mercruiser 5.7

ajj001ajj001 Member Posts: 18 ✭✭
Hi,
Our boat is on the Thames in London and been in a marina all winter. Now having trouble starting her, wondered if you had any advice before I call an engineer.....here goes....

Tried to start engine and just got a single 'click' with a drop in voltage at the helm
Have checked batteries and they both read 12.4v so look ok
Checked continuity across the breaker that sits above the engine, next to the slave solenoid and that looks ok
Ran a wire across the two heavy duty points on the solenoid (to effectively bypass it) and get a 'click-click-click' when turning power on.


Is it time to hit the starter with a hammer? Or is there some further testing I can do?

Thanks in advance

AJ

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    YYZRCYYZRC Member Posts: 4,995 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Do you have a battery booster that you can try? Just because the batteries read 12.4 doesn’t mean they are still good under load. 
    2008 350 EC on Georgian Bay
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    ajj001ajj001 Member Posts: 18 ✭✭
    I do. Tried it a few weeks back and it didn't help......but then maybe the booster is broken....will have another shot.
    Is there a way of checking the batteries effectiveness under load?
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    LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 7,625 mod
    If it's a lead-acid battery, check the water level in the battery too.
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    davidbrooksdavidbrooks Member Posts: 1,367 ✭✭✭✭
    Sounds like you are going down the right path to me.  12.4 v on a battery isn't necessarily a definite positive that the battery is good.  Mine will read 13.3 when fully charged and 11.5 when almost depleted.  Try and turn over the engine by hand with a large socket and breaker bar just to make sure the engine isn't siezed for some reason.  If the engine spins, batteries are good the next likely culprit is that your starter is dead.  I always love how things just decide to die over winter with no use.
    It's 5 O'Clock Somewhere!
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    IanIan Member Posts: 2,806 ✭✭✭✭
    Take it to get load tested. Will read 12v unloaded but give it a load and it will dive.

    Regards,

    Ian

    The Third “B”

    Secretary, Ravena Coeymans Yacht Club

    https://www.rcyachtclub.com/

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    ajj001ajj001 Member Posts: 18 ✭✭
    OK, been a while but weather in UK has been poor and other things have got in the way.
    I got a Romondes BT200 tester on the batteries and the results show as per the amp meter, ie 12.3-12.4v. Also did an MCA test (every day's a school day) and it reads 629a and 630a across the two batteries so I figure enough power combined to crank.
    Next I have taken the emergency power off switch out of the boat to give it a good clean (in previous years I've had to give it a thump occasional to close properly).
    If that doesn't work (and I'm not optimistic) I think I'll call in a pro!
    BTW, I haven't tried to crank it by hand.....it's a tight fit down there and a few too many beers have taken their toll!
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    PickleRickPickleRick Member Posts: 3,920 ✭✭✭✭✭
    ajj001 said:
    OK, been a while but weather in UK has been poor and other things have got in the way.
    I got a Romondes BT200 tester on the batteries and the results show as per the amp meter, ie 12.3-12.4v. Also did an MCA test (every day's a school day) and it reads 629a and 630a across the two batteries so I figure enough power combined to crank.
    Next I have taken the emergency power off switch out of the boat to give it a good clean (in previous years I've had to give it a thump occasional to close properly).
    If that doesn't work (and I'm not optimistic) I think I'll call in a pro!
    BTW, I haven't tried to crank it by hand.....it's a tight fit down there and a few too many beers have taken their toll!
    You're wrenching wrong,  the more you drink the easier it's supposed to be 
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    Rich_Rich_ Member Posts: 152 ✭✭
    ....you just might not be able to get back out
    Rinker sold but still have other boats        Eastern LI, NY
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    ajj001ajj001 Member Posts: 18 ✭✭
    So, got to the boat today. Mixed results. The battery isolator switch is faulty. When in its place I get intermittent continuity test failures.
    I did manage to squeeze into the engine bay and turn the engine about a quarter turn with a box spanner, so presume it's not seized. I also managed to get out!
    So, bypassed the isolator switch and tried to start the engine and got a horrible grinding noise from starter, I assumed it just wasn't quite engaged so gave it a thump with a rubber mallet. I then got what I consider a 'normal' flat/low power battery click accompanied by V drop of at helm and then back again.
    I then re-checked batteries with tester and now getting 'REPLACE' reading!
    So, new isolator switch ordered. Both batteries back home for a 'repair' re-charge and will test again before buying new ones.

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    LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 7,625 mod
    That's progress, I guess!  I had a couple battery switches that failed.  Once the plastic rotor cracks, it can't hold pressure on the contacts.  
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    ajj001ajj001 Member Posts: 18 ✭✭
    So, isolator switch replaced, one battery replaced, connections all cleaned and all re-installed. When I try to start it now I get a horrible grinding sound. Reminiscent of when try to change gear in a car but forgetting to engage the clutch (on what I believe is called a stick shift in US).  :/. Middle of the year and she’s not been out yet!
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