2005. Rinker Fiesta vee 360 starter replacement

tricountytrailtricountytrail Member Posts: 203 ✭✭
Looking to change my port engine starter. Wondering if anyone's done it on this model? Wondering if I have to pull the manifold or should I be able to access it? I haven't looked at the job yet really.

Comments

  • davidbrooksdavidbrooks Member Posts: 1,399 ✭✭✭✭
    What engine do you have?
    It's 5 O'Clock Somewhere!
  • Lake_BumLake_Bum Member Posts: 976 ✭✭✭✭
    With several different engine options, you need to list what you have to get a proper response  B)
    2000 Captiva 232 
  • tricountytrailtricountytrail Member Posts: 203 ✭✭
    Boat is Rinker 360 fiesta vee twin 496 mags with bravo 3. So update Starter is fine it looks like previous owner had two new starters put in but port one must have been loose. Broke two starter bolts. I cant reach to try to get the broken pieces out, boat is still in water plan is to pull riser and it I have to manifold to drill out bolts with left hand flexible drill. Anyone removed exhaust on this boat while in water?


  • PickleRickPickleRick Member Posts: 4,014 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited June 28
    The starter bolts in the block are probably not tight. 

    I have drilled them out before but not on the water. I think @aero3113 has replaced manifolds on the water. Perhaps he can chime in if he took any extra precautions 

    If you have what's left of one of the starter bolts, cut the head off of it with a zip wheel.  Now put it in a vice or attach to a jig on a drill press, drill it out as close to completely centered as possible. 

    Now you have a guide to hold against the surface of the broken bolts to get your bit flush and centered.  I find this helpful as you're usually working in a area with little margin for error and little to no visibility as to what you're doing.

    I've never had to drill all the way though broken starter bolts, just deep enough to get an ez out to grip. 

    I'm always afraid to drill these all the way through as if it catches and the bit breaks, game over.


  • raybo3raybo3 Administrator Posts: 5,502 admin
    Try using a lefthanded drill bit and run the drill in reverse. This works about 90% of the time. 
    2002 342 Fiesta Vee PC Point Of Pines YC Revere MA. popyc.org     raybo3@live.com
  • aero3113aero3113 Member Posts: 9,044 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Yes, I have replaced the risers and manifolds in the water. Straight forward and really not much different then doing it on land. As for the bolt, a left handed bit might work but I think your best bet would be to drill a hole with a regular bit and use an extractor. You might not be able to get down under to do it though. The left handed bit might make sense and gets it done in one shot. Use penetrating oil!
    2008 330EC
  • tricountytrailtricountytrail Member Posts: 203 ✭✭
    Thanks everyone I have parts ordered and hope to tackle this weekend. I have some guide drill bushings coming to help center drill. Great group thanks again for all the thoughts.
  • davidbrooksdavidbrooks Member Posts: 1,399 ✭✭✭✭
    This going to be a tough few bolts to drill out.  @PickleRick was right on and the first thing that popped into my head was " man i hope he doesn't snap off the bit" I have done that before.  Drilling out a drill bit.... yeah that's fun.  I replaced a starter while the engine was still in the boat and you will be wishing your arms were about 6in longer.  

    Good luck.  Take it slow. 

    It's 5 O'Clock Somewhere!
  • PickleRickPickleRick Member Posts: 4,014 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited June 28
    Luckily the bolts are not hardened. It's an easy drill with some good drill bits (read not harbor freight or cheap china equivalent).

    While probably not "marine rated" I've gotten my Chevy V8 and Dad's 3.0 mercruiser starter bolts in the "help" section of the local auto parts store.  

    Only had to do my engine once but before adding the rear starter stabilizer bracket to the 3.0 my dad was eating a few starter bolts every season.  

    One year he ran and entire season with a 4x4 wedged between the starter and side engine housing on his pontoon.  His being in a pontoon so requires engine removal to repair. 


  • tricountytrailtricountytrail Member Posts: 203 ✭✭
    Mission accomplished worked out perfect with a 90 reflex driver left-handed drill bit and drill guide. Had to remove the upper riser and first hose and the exhaust manifold. 
  • davidbrooksdavidbrooks Member Posts: 1,399 ✭✭✭✭
    Nice.  What kind of drill guide do you use?
    It's 5 O'Clock Somewhere!
  • aero3113aero3113 Member Posts: 9,044 ✭✭✭✭✭
    👏 ⚓️
    2008 330EC
  • raybo3raybo3 Administrator Posts: 5,502 admin
    Left handed drill bits never fail......LOL
    2002 342 Fiesta Vee PC Point Of Pines YC Revere MA. popyc.org     raybo3@live.com
  • Dream_InnDream_Inn Member, Moderator Posts: 7,661 mod
    raybo3 said:
    Left handed drill bits never fail......LOL

    Sorry, I had to laugh because for me they rarely work.  But lately I've been trying to get stainless steel bolts out of engine heads.

    Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express

  • raybo3raybo3 Administrator Posts: 5,502 admin
    Stainless steel is evil......lol
    2002 342 Fiesta Vee PC Point Of Pines YC Revere MA. popyc.org     raybo3@live.com
  • LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 7,751 mod
    Agree.  I literally bought a drill press for one SS repair, then sold it at a yard sale for a $100 loss.  But we digress.  As usual.
  • PickleRickPickleRick Member Posts: 4,014 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I have unfortunately needed LH drill bits often when working with small broken bolts.  Nearly all the equipment I work with is aluminum with steel hardware.  I rarely use them on anything bigger than about 3/8 or 10mm.   Anything smaller the extractors break off too easily.  
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