Running fridge on DC only

Liberty44140

Our cabin fridge is an AC/DC refrigerator and freezer. All in one unit but freezer has separate door from fridge. The AC input stopped working. The control module is getting 122v but not powering the unit so it has to be a bad control module, I’m ordering a new one now. Runs perfectly in dc.

Any harm in running it on dc only for the next week or so until I get the new control module in? 50 amp charger is feeding two house group 31 so I think we’ve got plenty of juice! 

aero3113

I don’t think it would be an issue @Liberty44140 . 

I think I have the opposite issue with my cabin fridge. Runs great on AC but not DC. I hear it keep cycling on and off when at anchor. I noticed this last season. Anyone have a part number handy of what I’ll need to replace? Below is a pic of the part number of the fridge I have.

Liberty44140

Are you sure it’s not your control module too? I see it in the far left side of the pic. Exact same module mine uses. I’ve been scouring and here is the best price I’ve found:

https://citimarinestore.com/en/vitrifrigo-marine-refrigerators-freezers/14129-vitrifrigo-secop-danfoss-101n0510-ac-dc-module-100-230v-ac-1224v-dc-r101097.html

this units part number ends in 510. Yours and mine end in 500. The 510 is a direct replacement from the oem which just adds the capability for more electronics like electronic thermostat if you had it. 

Also first things first, are you getting consistent dc in to the control module?

YYZRC

@aero3113 I had that same issue which was caused by the regulator not seeing enough voltage (even though I was over 12v). I installed a voltage booster to 14v and the problem was solved. I posted about it here. 

Also check your spade connectors at the fridge and at the DC panel. Mine was loose at the panel. 

YYZRC

https://rinkerboats.vanillacommunities.com/discussion/11777/waeco-fridge-maintains-different-temps-at-120-ac-and-12-volt/p2

aero3113

Thanks @YYZRC ! Apparently I was having issues back then also! 😂
I’ll have to dig into it. First I’ll try the butt connectors.
Would the new module fix this? Is the Amazon part fixing something different not within the module besides giving more voltage?

Liberty44140

Need to confirm your voltage. If the voltage in to the module is too low, new module won’t do anything

YYZRC

I believe the issue stems from the inadequate wiring that Rinker used. When the compressor kicks on, it pulls a lot amperage which causes the voltage to drop below 12. The fridge regulator then shuts the compressor off (to save you from discharging the battery).

Had Rinker used 12ga wiring to the fridge, I believe this would not be happening.

YYZRC

aero3113 said:

Thanks @YYZRC ! Apparently I was having issues back then also! 😂
I’ll have to dig into it. First I’ll try the butt connectors.
Would the new module fix this? Is the Amazon part fixing something different not within the module besides giving more voltage?

First try the spade connector at the panel since it is way easier to get access to. My spade at the DC panel breaker was VERY loose.

aero3113

Thanks, I’ll take a look!

aero3113

Connectors look good behind the panel and at the fridge. I have 13.36 volts coming to the fridge. The butt connectors look good also. What do you guys think? Should I replace the butt connectors and see what happens?

aero3113

I think I might have just found the problem!
I was looking at the little computer fan on the back and was wondering if it worked. I turned the fridge on and it wasn’t moving. I stuck my pocket knife in and spun the blades a couple times. Sure enough it started spinning!
We’ll see! ⚓️

aero3113

It’s possible it was getting too hot and causing the issues I had.

Formulaben

aero3113 said:

I think I might have just found the problem!
I was looking at the little computer fan on the back and was wondering if it worked. I turned the fridge on and it wasn’t moving. I stuck my pocket knife in and spun the blades a couple times. Sure enough it started spinning!
We’ll see! ⚓️

I saved a really nice Red Bull fridge doing the same.  Turns out the AC powered fan had collected dust and stopped moving, so it was thought to be broken.  I could get the fans barely moving, so I sprayed WD-40 into the bearings and cleaned them out.  Works like new now!

aero3113

@Formulaben , that’s great!
I’ll do the same with the WD-40 mine seems a little louder than it should be. ⚓️

Spyderweb

@aero3113 I had same problem a few years back.  Butt connectors looked fine, but I was getting desperate so changed then anyways.  Bam!  Has worked fine since.

aero3113

Thanks @Spyderweb , I’ll change them for good measure. ⚓️

Liberty44140

Aero - Change the fan!!! They are $12 - $16 on Amazon. Even though I felt that I diagnosed my non working on AC power problem, I still sent a note to Nova-Kool outlining the testing I'd done, that the fuse was good and I had 122v at the control module, so I diagnosed that the module need changed. They called me and said yes, its the module so changing it is the fix since the fridge works great on DC, but they wanted to tell me to be sure to change the fan as they have a much shorter typical life than the module and being a 2007 I am on borrowed time. He said while doing the work, its so cheap and simple to change the fan, just change it.

So passing on the same to you. Do your connections, but change the fan. I ordered one from Amazon yesterday and it is already on my porch. $12.50 delivered. 

aero3113

Thanks @Liberty44140 !