Trim sender installation

oscar1

I have to replace both of my trim sender and trim limit switch in my bravo III outdrive. I am wondering if i have to remove the drive to be able to get the cable pass through the transom or is it another way to do it. any advices would be appreciate. thx

rasbury

You would to do it correct but I've read splicing them in. I put new ones in when I pulled my motor- never got it to work. Where i boat (and as often) it's not much concern.  Let us know how you handle it- I can't imagine a way to pull anything through...

PickleRick

You don't have to pull the leg to replace them but it's difficult. You need a good 1/4" socket and extension set, swivel, skinny long fingers, patience and plenty of swear words. 

I'd personally try to wait until it's time for bellows and gimbal if I had to pay to pull the boat.  

If it's sitting on a trailer in your driveway way, it's a Saturday half day project.  With an engine cherry picker pulling the drive is a one person 10 min job.  

rasbury

Rick, friend, you are the eternal optimist!

PickleRick

Having the proper tools is half the battle.  Not having the right tools makes a half hour job a 2 day job

rasbury

I need to pull mine back away and adjust the shift cable. Rick, how far back does it need to come? I pulled mine completely- i built a stand on furniture dollies and rolled it in my garage if that helps Oscar- I'd guess also if you have to pull the drives a good time to check alignment- that tool you can find for a hundred or less these days.  

PickleRick

I've not had to adjust a bravo cable (yet knock on wood) but I did on the alpha.  The alpha didn't require anything to be removed on the drive other than the installation of the new cable.    I'd have to watch a few videos on YouTube before talking on either.  

The furniture dollies also works great to move them around.   

rasbury

And back and forth if it only has to come back- but that thing ain't lite and getting the drive/shaft coupling lined up is no joke. Keep in mind I pulled my motor also and had feal fun adjusting the motor mounts etc...by myself. I would have that adjusting tool handy as you may be able to pull it out but have issues reasembly. Not a hard job and I can't think of any special tools- your "stand" needs to support like around 600#'s?

oscar1

should I remove the drive and replace the bellows and shift cable to make the trim sender installation easy. I was replacing my bellows every 5 years, but to be honest it look fine every time the mechanic remove it, what you think about it?.

PickleRick

I would personally stick to every 5 years for gimball/bellows.  The point is to change them before they go bad. If either fail you could sink or destory the bearing seat on the transom housing.   

I know of boats that went over a decade without changing them...but I wouldn't be that lucky. 

I'm not sure if there's a service interval to the cables  other than silicon lube

rasbury

5 years sound reasonable- but @PickleRick is there any consideration for how much it's been used? Im 5 years plus but it's  5 hours on the motor!
Unfortunately @oscar1 the only visual you would see is a failure I'd suppose- nothing in-between. 

oscar1

rasbury said:

5 years sound reasonable- but @PickleRick is there any consideration for how much it's been used? Im 5 years plus but it's  5 hours on the motor!
Unfortunately @oscar1 the only visual you would see is a failure I'd suppose- nothing in-between. 

you are right, I also only have low hour since my last bellows replacement last 5 years. my mechanic remove one and it look fine even it is 5 years old bellow. anyway i going to stick to the 5 year rules for my peace of mind.

rasbury

Yes, not worth sinking a boat- plus one i know you have done a lot of work on.

The biggest trouble i had was the shift boot- it kept coming off- little scary there too. I only had one motor to deal with. Good chance to see the transom condition. 
Good luck if you accept the challenge. 

PickleRick

All the boats in aware of that like to neglect their bellows/gimbal are both fresh water use and trailer kept.  

Also helps that most are low hours compared to what long distance cruisers or hardore fishermen would put on them. 

My sister took ownership of my dad's approximately 2001 chaparral 3-4 years ago.  Immediately took it to Wilmington NC and launched it in the ICW where she spent her first 3-4 weekends of boating time getting stuck on sandbars and running out of fuel.  Still on the original bellow and gimball.  Even original water pump alpha 1.

Just changed them out last winter and added navigation.  

She lives life on the edge.

rasbury

Oscar, did you do this or on the list? 

oscar1

rasbury said:

Oscar, did you do this or on the list? 

yes, but i also have to change the mercathode which it was causing a big electrical short in starboard eng. i still waiting on parts, so i can get the outdrive paint before taking her back to the water. Thank you for asking.

oscar1

oscar1

rasbury

Did you have to pull the drive? Those studs that hold it on are not very long..I assume it has to come off. Great time to check engine alignment,  the tool is no expensive.

oscar1

rasbury said:

Did you have to pull the drive? Those studs that hold it on are not very long..I assume it has to come off. Great time to check engine alignment,  the tool is no expensive.

Yes, the outdrive was out, but i didn't check for the alignment next time, do you have any idea how to troubleshoot the mercury mercathode system?

rasbury

If it went back on, as long as the drive shaft went in easily you are aligned.  If it was forced, it will eventually blow out the coupler , u joint etc.. it is an enormous PITA especially alone.  
On the mercathode I would suggest asking chat GBT which has been extremely helpful on some recent projects- very tecnical details easy to understand. I'm no way an electrical guy and I'm sure someone will chime in- might start a new thread to get more attention.