Rusted intake

rasbury

I mentioned on @aero3113 's thread on his engine project- here is mine!
I think it's not as bad as the 1st picture looks but I need to know how to pull the rotor and re assemble without screwing up the timing...I'm fresh water cooled so that is on the outside not rusting through.
I had thought water was getting there from the stern seating but it is not. The fire protection matt that is attached to the underside on the engine hatch has come lose in the back- apparently full of  water..and is running onto the intake.  The boat stays covered and the rusted area is not really wet. The table mount is the only place I can see where the water could be coming through. There is no sealant around the pedestal  base...tips on pulling that please?

aero3113

@rasbury , watch this video.

https://youtu.be/3UtdR642Wlg?is=TlEZxSMsPVW3ur7M

captkevin

Yikes

rasbury

@aero3113.....reviewing this video..let me ask you a question. I'm not taring down the motor...Just pulling it out and then putting back in. I have no need to rotate the motor. If i mark the intake and the rotor shaft, aren't I good?

aero3113

Yes, you can do that. Make sure the mark that’s on the housing stays in the correct spot and the rotor points to where it originally was. So you should actually make two marks on the intake, one for the housing and one for where the rotor points, What you plug in at the distributor is actually your cam sensor, if it’s off you’ll get a code. Remember that the gears are cut at an angle and the distributor will rotate when you stick it in. It might be just as easy to put the engine at TDC this way you know the rotor points to the #1 spark plug wire on the cap and its set if for some reason you mess up and have to do it again.

aero3113

Before you pull it, loosen up as much of the rust you can and vacuum it out. Stuff can easily fall in the hole, it’s a pretty big opening when it’s out. You’ll most likely need a new gasket, the old one will probably tear when you pull it out. 

rasbury

Thanks @aero3113...I'll watch the video more thourgh and set it at TDC just in case. I'm always looking for the short cut- plus I assume to turn the motor by hand I will need to remove the belt and pull all of the plugs....yuk.

I also noticed on that video, that motor has the same rust in the spot I'm dealing with..

captkevin

Think i'd be looking for a new intake manifold 

rasbury

I probably should not have posted that first picture. The corrosion is in the webbing and some how I got a real clear close up of a top edge or something- but you are correct @captkevin a new one may be in order. I'd assume if it rusted through and a bunch of yuk gets sucked into the motor, I'd be looking at a new motor so....the new manifold looks pretty cheap. Maybe I can find a salvage one- fl has over a million boats registered- probably 2x that junk somewhere...so I will get the rotor pulled and see if it is repairable or not. I'd think i could handle the replacement..
I don't have the ability/training to go inside the motor for sure.

rasbury

@aero3113 I watched this start to finish...he was a little confusing identifying #1 on the rotor cap. He knows his stuff and confidently identified piston #1 was on a compression stroke by feeling a valve rocker on #7.  I don't think I'm that confident! I probably would have pulled that valve cover to be sure! 
I don't know why he had the motor down but obviously more of a repair to something else and perhaps the crank moved. I was really surprised to learn about the lack of timing adjustment yet relieved at the same time. Knowing it has sequential fuel injection is pretty impressive and I'm sure saves fuel- hard to imagine consumption could be worse. With all that simplicity and tech with the injectors, I'm surprised it does not have a fully electronic ignition. 
Anyone with any motor interest, this is a great video on how the ignition system and fuel control works,  thanks for posting.

Watching also re enforces as long as on the rotor it goes back in pointing the same way and I mark the rotor "tube" and the manifold it's not going to matter about TDC for what I'm doing...I need to figure out which was the rotor will "twist" going back in. I assume if I'm a tooth off it would be really obvious.

aero3113

If your a tooth off it can be obvious if the rotor isn’t lined up with your mark. Sometimes it looks close but not exactly lined up. The engine will still run fine at idle, when you go to take her on a run, it will start to cough.

aero3113

@rasbury if you’re going to replace the intake I recommend adjusting the valves while you’re at it. You will have to pull the valve covers anyway to give the clearance you need for the intake. I was worried about doing it also till I watched a bunch of videos and saw how easy it is. Like I said in my other post, my starboard engine was easy to turn over by hand with a socket before I adjusted the valves, and that was with the spark plugs in. After I adjusted the valves, I was fighting the compression and it was very difficult to turn with the socket. The valves must’ve not been seating all the way on their seats. Up to you though, it’s not as difficult as you think. Watch this video from the same guy.

https://youtu.be/N1W5VuheoKs?is=7I0HnY73Z6sofpnC