Rinker 28 Express Cruiser - Water Leak

newtoboating

Hi, excuse my lack of nautical terminology but have just purchased a 2009 Rinker 28ft Express Cruiser in the UK. The seems to be a sizeable water leak at the rear sleeping area that 'pools' at the footwell at the bottom of the stairs leading from the cockpit.

I have not got a clue where and how to start looking, hence posing the question to see if anyone out there has any experience or heard about this. I can forward a picture.

 

Thank you in anticipation.

 

TikiHut2

Welcome to the forum!

Don't rule out internal issues. It could be a malfunctioning shower sump pump, an overflowing a/c drain pan or a poorly connected/cracked sink/bilge/etc drain line.

Outside caulking issues are often found with a friend squirting a hose on suspect areas while you observe with a flashlight from inside. Another option is baby powder sprinkled inside around suspicious areas and later-checked for indications of drainage.

It's a battle to keep water out of the boat and there are quite a few battle fronts to defend. A particularly pesky leak on a former boat came from a tiny gelcoat imperfection in the broad area of a foredeck that dripped inside the headliner and ran across to a totally different area. Usually it'll be something far less challenging.

Others will chime in I'm sure. Good luck and let us know what you find. Mike

newtoboating

Thanks, i should have added that the leak seems to be on the 'port side' (had to look up which side was which - told you i was a novice). Anyways that is the side which is used to fill up the water tank, the side where the galley is and obviously there is the port window i now need to consider which i should look at in order of how easy it is to access (and rule out), before i move on to my next suspected cause. Also, heard that Rinker have posted problems with the radar arch?

TikiHut2

I hadn't heard any chatter on arch problems but if the arch is caulked at the attachment point and any penetrations that seems less likely to be the issue than ports/railing/internal issues. If you really feel it's an arch leak simply try wrapping it in visqueen and hosing other suspect areas or waiting for a rain.

I think RBOC member Tony mentioned an arch leak in his 342. Do a search in the archives and it may come up.

Do you keep a travel cover over the cockpit? Have you eliminated anything already mentioned by RY or myself? Our boats former owner hadn't properly latched the aft cabin port and it allowed water to enter the aft bunk area. Rule out the easy stuff by checking that all the ports are secured as RY said, check the shower sump pump and galley sink drains with a good flow of water too.

Hey, now you know port from starboard.....you're on your way. Haul away.

Black_Diamond

I'd be surprised if it was the arch leaking that bad, they typically leaked and held water in them and sometimes dripping - that's what mine did..  As Tiki noted, start with the 'big' things: shower sump, A/C filter/pump if you have it, loose connections at hoses, etc.  Do you have water in the bilge in the engine room too?

vquad

oboy,here we go...

I had issues with my 270 leaking and pooling in the exact same location

I couldn't find the source of the leak.sooooooooooooooo...

1)the windshield on my 270 wasn't installed properly...the holes drilled in the fiberglass were not countersunk nor were they sealed with any kind of silicone or 5200.

I had to redo this at my expense

2)the rub rail hull to deck connection was not sealed at the factory.

there were many holes/gaps so I had to pull the rub rail and seal all the holes.

then put the rub rail back on and seal that as well.

3)I pulled out every speaker,carpet,screw and cushion and EVERY snap and sealed them all.

rinker said I didn't have a leak....um yeah,ok

 

8-|

vquad

from your description also don't rule out the frig leaking..

 

TikiHut2

Vquad, yikes. That's some effort right there. Like you, I also pulled all the carpet floor snaps but rather than reinstalling them with caulking I just put a dab of gelcoat in each hole and left the carpets completely out. All that squishy carpet after a rain, the mold, deteriorating rubber backing and all those holes in the floor made me nervous anyway. The carpet in the cabin will come out next.

The hull to deck connection at the rub rail can certainly become compromised with a whack from an unexpected dockage miscalculation so I'd check the whole side under the rail for damage or proper sealant.

Good call on the frig condensation. I use my teeny frig as a dish/silverware/glasses storage locker anyway. Beer n food in Fla deserves to be in a cooler on Ice. How 'bout our endless rain down here this year, 3" today alone. Testing my sealant every day. So far so good. Mike

newtoboating

Thanks to you all for this, it is comforting to know that there's so many genuine people out there! The leak is on the opposite side to the shower (is that starboard?). Anyways one other thing I though of was that someone helped me fill the water tank when I brought the boat onto ten jetty for the 1st time. In hindsight unless there is a pump switch that may be turned off, nothing comes out of the tap! So I guess I need to verify this....

Dream_Inn

well, here's hoping the pump switch is turned off, which is probably the case.  Just beware when filling/emptying any tanks.  Verify it is the one you think it is.  Putting water in fuel, or vice versa, or filling waste, is not a good thing.  You found a great site with some great people here.  Please ask any questions you need to...none are dumb (maybe just sometimes funny).     Enjoy that boat!

newtoboating

The broker who I purchased the boat through has rang and said he thinks it is the port window, so looks like I'll start there. Does anyone know how to access and remove? Early comment mentioned a "frig"! What the frig is a frig? Mark United Kingdom

TikiHut2

Frig in U.S. = Refrigerator. Now that's our fault.

I'd latch those ports down tight and hose them to see if it's the source before I tore them out to re-bed.

newtoboating

Price is £1.50 per litre so that's about $2.50 per litre! And yes know where the petrol goes!!!! Guess the cost is hugely cheaper in the US. I used to go to NY for St. Patricks day and remember how cheap it was there, even in Manhattan....

TikiHut2

Yikes, is that $9.45 a gal. omg I'm over the whining about $4gal for rec fuel.

Good luck with the leak. Keep us up to date on what you try and what eventually works. Pictures are a universally understood format. Fair winds, Mike

Black_Diamond

I posted a detailed work instruction on here somewhere about the windows.  They are a two piece assembly: the stainless steel trim ring and then the window itself.  The window frame comes out from the inside (there is a screw behind the window hinge!  hard to get at unless you take the hinge apart - which is not hard).  You need to cut the caulk at the trimring and the plastic part of the window and it will pull out (from the inside) just be careful and patient.  The trim ring will be obvious how it is attached, be VERY careful taking it out as it will bend.  A little heat on the metal where it meets the hull will break the caulk seal once you take the screws out.  I used a full tube of caulk per window to reseal. 

If you can verify it is the problem and want to fix it ourself, drop me a note and I can get you all the details.  I tried searching on the forum for my posting but no luck.

newtoboating

Leak update: Hi again, i was at the boat last week and attempted to gain access to the area directly under the window. After removing what seemed like hundred of screws i was no where nearer being able to see anything. in the end i managed to prise away the cupboard/shelving unit around the window, however, i couldn't see anything.

Over a beer (actually 3) i decided to consider using a process of elimination so i taped  plastic visqueen over the window and though would revisit this coming weekend to rule in/out the window.

Have also planned ahead in case this is not the cause, so will place gaffer tape over the entire rub rail and have borrowed a small inspection camera so i can have a look around the radar arch.

Fingers crossed.......

 

hanzelvh

before you buy that beautiful instrument, listen to my story:

Also we had a very wet floor under the stairs in our 280EC 2007 cruiser.

Not only the floor was wet, also the area with the toilet valve and the shower pump was filled with water. After confirmation of being clean water (not outside water), we found a broken waterhose connection in the cold water line in the toilet area under the sink. We removed the cabinet under the sink and were surprised about the speed of dripping water concentrating at the bottem of our carpet.

newtoboating

Hi, how did you establish it was 'clean' water'??

Black_Diamond

Try blotting it up with papertowel or a white towel.  Unless the water in your marina is exceptionally clear, you can see if the water looks dirty.  If you dry it up and leave your water pump or hose OFF does it stay dry?  Using the city water connection and leaving it on when not at the boat is not a good habit by the way.  It would have to be a hefty leak to pool like you say and be from a leaking window. 

As noted by others, I would look at water lines, shower sump, AC condensate drain, check your AC and toilet in-line water screens too.  I had a leak at my AC in-line screen as the threaded connector for the water line was not teflon taped and was not tight either.

newtoboating

**EUREKA** found problem (well actually problems). Hats off to "Tikihut"; found problem to be water entering radar arch in two places: One was the navigation light and the other was where the arch and the body meet. The water was then entering the cabin via inadequate sealing and also via one of the three bolts fixing the arch to the main body of the boat.

For some reason the middle bolt had no mastic or sealant (unlike the other two). I have now gone out and purchased two tubes of marine grade sealant (had to cover holes/gaps with gaffer tape as a temporary job).

Have to say bit disappointed with the cause (manufacturer), especially as the boat is only four years old and also the lack of response from Rinker.

Lastly, suppose also a bit disappointed in the surveyor who carried out a survey just before i bought the boat. In hindsight there was a bit of a 'telltale' as some of the water that must have been entering where the navigation light is housed had caused some lifting of the paint directly underneath (there is a small inspection hatch).

Rather than attempt a repair to the paint i am thinking of having a glass diffuser cover made and will install some led lighting as this will be cheaper and aesthetically better.

yeehaa....... can get back to dry and happy boating

 

MarkB

You will learn it is easier to take full owndership of your boat, fix things yourself, based on good guidance from this website.

TikiHut2

Gotta love that eureka moment when it all comes clear. Like everyone on the forum we only share what we've learned from someone else who shared a helpful tip with us. We're usually just standing on the shoulders of giants who came before us. Remembering those insights is becoming a challenge

Yeah, These aren't custom built boats and they're assembled by guys working on tough production schedules in a pretty brutal environment so we usually have to do a little detail work if we end up with a boat part assembled by the guy who squeezed past H.R. or is just an underachiever. Caulking is ok, poor drive alignment or misplaced cotter pins are another story. Just sayin'.

Good luck with the rest of your boating season and keep us informed about how it's going. Pictures are always good too. Mike

TonyWalker

NTB,

I finally opened your thread.  Leaks are strange and hard to find things as you know.  Congrats for finding yours.  I think the last of my leaks was finally found and fixed.

It was a defective/deteriorated seal on the opening port in the head.  That was found by the guy who does most of the work on my boat.  He was working, installing a new fridge during a heavy rain.  He heard water running in at an audible rate and traced to the port hole.  I think that was my last leak.

On remembering port/starboard etc  All the long words are on the starboard side:  Right-Starboard- Green  and the short words are on the left side:  Left-Port-Red.  An easy way to keep track.

Tony

Salt Shaker 342