Question for Rinker?

stevev28

Can anyone give me the exact part and model number of the pompanette portlight windows used in a 99 Fiesta Vee 270? All of them are broken.

Thanks

Stevev V

nhsd

 

Michael T

Try Cindy Scott Hagen who is Rinker parts supervisor at cscott@nauticglobalgroup.com Good luck! MT

 

rasbury

I have two questions for Rinker for operation.....first, the glass in the nose seemed to be put in place before the trim around it was installed. It was designed to come out as it has velcro on the back but I can't work it out of that space...I need to get to the wiring for the windlass and can't get to it.  Am I going to have to break the glass and then get a slightly smaller piece to put in there? Is some of the trim made to pop off or something? I don't want to tare anything up....

Second, I can't find any switch to turn on my refrig......the installation manual says it should be on a 15 amp breaker but I do not see anything on my panel, have turned on everything and can not get it to turn on. I can't imagine it would have been installed without a breaker as it would be to easy to leave it on and drain the battery. I have pretty much figured out how everything else works, have a few things to fix but have that under control I think but the fridge is driving me nuts!  2005 270 is the boat....

gslpro

Ras.  On your electrical panel at the stern, do you have this breaker on?

If so, and inside the fridge, you have the dial all the way up, and still nothing, you may need to pull the fridge out and see if it has a box similar to this one.

The screw looking thing below the 12v socket is a fuse.  Check the wiring on this box and see if it is hot #1, then hot out to the fridge #2.  There should be a 110v plug on the fridge, try it on an extension cord to see if it works then.  This box does the 110v on shore power, 12v on house battery switching.  it could just be bad.  Also, it might not even be plugged into it.  Final thing is that the fridge might simply be bad.  Let us know.

Serenity

In regard to the access to the anchor locker-I own a 2005 320 and my access port is behind the panel under the mirror. Not behind the mirror. Once the Velcro panel is taken off there is a plastic porthole which you unscrew to open. I do not know what you have in your boat but thought I would try. Good luck getting in there-you have to be a magician to get in there.

Now the frig. I have shore power and will explain how mine works. There is a switch panel in the cabin. The left side are the 120 switches and the right side are the 12 volt.  On the left side of the switch panel-the 120 side-there is a breaker for the cockpit frig--I turn this on. When on battery power as long as the temp dial in the frig is on, batteries are hooked up and the battery switches are on--the frig will work. When I plug in the shore power or run the generator-the frig automatically switches over to 120.

Hope this helps. Sorry I do not know your particular boat. But hope it is the same idea.  

rasbury

thanks for the tips on the a/c- I will look at my battery switch panel again tonight and see if there is a breaker on there for it. I would have expected, however, that there would be a switch on the main panel as it would be so easy to forget and leave it on and kill a battery- who knows, maybe the previous owner had it unplugged so that did not happen as I'm sure he never used it- does not look like anything on the boat was ever used! Guess I need to pull it out and check to see if it is getting any power etc...great tips and if I do find it is all wired up ok and check the items above, will be back with more questions! With regard to the panel to access the windlass, there are two inspection covers in the nose of my 270- one below the mirror and one behind it.  The one below is just to far away from the windlass and wiring to reach and get to....the one behind the mirror is obviously the one to work with but the mirror will not clear the trim- like the mirror was put on then the trim was installed.  There is not enough room to work the glass out. I was hoping someone would tell be that one of the trim pieces pops off to get the glass out but am not hearing that and gentle tugs of the trim do not result in anything. If I have my choice of taring something up, I think it would be easier to get a new piece of glass made vs. trying to fix a torn piece of trim......annoying! Back on the a/c, I have no experience with the push out type breakers, is there a fuse behind that button of sorts? Do they go back or need to be cleaned up? I have tried to research them as there are a bunch on that battery switch panel as well as the helm and I don't really get how they work. I have looked at the helm and the battery switch panel and I swear there is nothing that says A/C but there has to be a breaker somewhere for it....

gslpro

I am guessing you meant fridge every time you said a/c.  On my 290, I have a breaker for the fridge on the main panel in the cabin.  This controls the 110/120v operation only.  The 12v operation is controlled by the battery switch back at the transom door.  I once turned off the breaker for the fridge, then left the door open to defrost.  When I came back a week later, the entire inside was one big solid block of ice and frost.  I now know I have to kill BOTH breakers, or simply turn the dial down to off.  btw....yeah, it sucked to defrost that fridge.

rasbury

Gary- I did pull the FRIDGE out real quick last night for a look...I found a couple of things. One, the plug in for shore power was hot, I plugged a light in it's place and it worked.  The shore power power comes off the range to the socket and I was able to determine by flipping the breaker on the panel off and on that the range switch controlled the power on shore. On battery, there has to be a breaker somewhere but it is not identified on any of the panels anywhere. Also, I note as I'm pulling it out there must have been a major leakage as the bottom edge of the cabinet where the fridge slips in is rotted away from what would look like water damage. There is such a device looking think although not identical. I don't recall seeing a fuse on it and I sure should have looked a little closer on that. Since the light on the inside does not work I can only assume power is not flowing. I got my meter out and was going to start trying to check the power side of it but frankly, would need step by step to do that.  Is it as simple as one wire is ground and the other is hot? I see four wires to it, two from shore and two from 12V that goes behind the cabinet to points unknown......I may just have to yank it out and take it somewhere but if you can work me through testing for power, it might narrow down the problem. Thanks for the help!

gslpro

The breaker for the 12V should be the one near your transom walk-through.  It is the pic above with the red circle.  When you look at the power box, two wires should go to that breaker, and yes, 12+ and 12-(ground).  When you test, start with D/C selected on the multimeter, and touch the B+ and B- screws on the mobitronic, or close resemblance.  You should see 12v +/- a bit.  If that is not hot, check the breaker back on the transom, which should control this 12v source.  If it is hot, either try the C+ and C-, or the outer ring and the center button-spot, where you would plug a cigarette lighter-type of plug into.  Both of these (if you have both on your module) should read 12v +/-.  If not, there, should be a fuse on that control box.  On the pic above, it it the phillips head screw under the 12v plug receptacle.  On your box, it might be different, but should be there.  

   So, your fridge doesn't work on either shore power or 12v?  If everything checks out, and still doesn't work, it just sounds like the fridge is bad.  It does happen, especially with suspected water damage.  Report back.