Raw water impeller replacement

cjaway

I recently purchased a 2001 Rinker Fiesta Vee with a 350 Mercruiser 300hp and am being told by a local dealer's service dept. that the engine must be removed to replace the impeller in the water pump.  I'm having difficulty understanding this as I've always replaced impellers annually in outboards.  Does anyone have any experience with this?  Thanks!

Dream_Inn

Maybe you can tell us what size boat you have and which outdrive?  I'm assuming a B3, which would mean the impeller is in a pump mounted on the lower part of your engine, running off the serpentine.  I know on a few models, it is dang near impossible to get to (I believe the 340 and 250).

habit68

Is the water impeller on volvo penta 5.7 GI with a DP outdrive also hard to get at? I have a 2005 250FV.

SeaHare

Should not have to remove the  engine no matter what..... if its a bravo setup, the pump is on the lower part of the engine... 3 bolts and a belt to get it off... Alpha setup, the pump is in the lower unit like an outboard..

Babyboomer

I would stay clear of that dealer I have a big block and not saying it's easy but you can change it

Babyboomer

MarkB

What I did find out last year when my engine had to replaced under warranty is that it doesn't take long to pull the engine. I was surprised how fast they could get it out. Having said that I wouldn't want the extra cost.

SeaHare

I hate to say it, but if its true, thats just poor boat designing... might as well design a boat that the engines need to be pulled every time you need to change the oil and filter too. I change my impellers every 2-3 seasons, i wouldnt want my engines pulled every time

Dream_Inn

SeaHare, you hit it right.  Poor boat designing.  Not the engine manufacturer or anyone else.  I would not ever own a boat that requires that for something that is routine maintenance!  Sorry, this is my pet peeve!  The very first thing I do before I ever buy a boat is make sure I can maintain it myself.

My fist boat I owned had an alpa drive.  I think the impeller for that was a PITA as well.  If you don't get the lower unit back on without bumping the seal (that you can't see once it goes back in), then you will have gear lube leaking.  (Don't ask me how I know)

Hate to say it, buyer needs to look at maintenance and dig completely thru the boat before you buy.  I think when I retire I'd love to be a boat surveyor.

:-bd

Black_Diamond

Ah yes, remember the Monza 2+2 V8, jack up the motor to change plugs too. Sometimes you make design sacrifices, it's all about compromise...and learning from mistakes.

Dream_Inn

we have yet to hear back from cjaway.  Curious what boat he has, probably the 250.

Definitely a fun topic remembering some old design flaws. 

Al, funny you mention college profs as well.  Always thought that might be good as part time in retirment as well!  (Guess I want to ignore real world! 8-|  )  Nice to hear you support us do-it-yourselfers and on here helping us all out! >-

212rowboat

Alswagg said:

LOL.  Remember, Surveyors, are just like college proffesors.  Neither can work in the real world.  As far as working on yourself, I applaud this.  But, what about a new Ford Super duty Diesel,  Pull the body to service the heads? Or even the 69 Mustang, lift the engine to change spark plugs?  96-99 Chevrolet with 7.4 mpi in all trucks, remove the upper intake manifold plenum to chang dist. cap?   All of these a some pita examples of complicated engineering.  However, anything can be done.  Not everything is easy.  As a side note, pulling the motor really is very easy.   Al

I have a Super Duty, and there are some items that simply can't be serviced with the cab on... it takes a competent mechanic with the proper facility about four hours to pull the cab and roll the chassis out from underneath it...

I have a small bedplate leak on mine right now... apparently, they are known for doing this.. in order for repair of this item, the engine had to come out, put in a stand, and turned upside down- which means the cab has to be lifted... all so they can drop the oil pan, unbolt the bedplate, and lay a bead of some special silicone or another in the groove of the mating surface.. and put it all back together... the book quotes this as a 32 hour job.... glory be to allah it is a warranty covered item...

there is no room available under the hood of that thing.. that engine is shoehorned in there.. there is zero chance I could do this myself, due to the complexity of both the job and the tools/facility required.. funny.. I could drop the oil pan on every other engine i've ever owned, and spend more time trying to get the gasket in place before remounting it than any other part of that job... it's crazy... and it just about promises dealerships get the job, instead of some fool like me twirling wrenches under the shade tree.

Black_Diamond

The 7.3l Ford Diesel has to be pulled to replace the oil pan too.  Ask me how I know.  lol  First vehicle I have ever owned where the oil pan and the dipstick tube rusted through.  That was ~8hours I think and painful, 32hours would be a heart stopper of a bill.

nhsd

On a smaller scale, on Ford's 2004 to 2007 5.4L V-8s they used a "special" 2 part spark plug. These regularly break off in the heads when you try to remove them and leave the porcelin. Ford came out with a special tool for removing these remains (the Lyle tool I believe it is called) which only makes a several hour job out of a simple spark plug chnage... that is unless some of the remains fall in and then you get to remove the heads. Nothing like a couple thou for a spark plug change....